4025 4WD sliding or constant mesh transmission?

[Notforhire]

Besides the lower HP requirements, which is the biggest reason I suggested a sickle bar.check out

Tractor Rotary Cutters by Fred Cain, and King Kutter Free shipping on Tractor Rotary Cutters

A Fred Caine 6ft cutter cost $1705, move up to their 8ft and the cost is $4995. New sickles are also expensive, but not many people use them anymore so you can find them used at a fair price. With a belt drive like a NH brand you can lower the cutter below level and cut slopes like you find around ponds. A rotary is behind you rather than along side like a sickle. Each has it's own good and bad points.

 

[keegs]

Thanks ...I'd been looking at the sickle bar mowers a month or so ago and it seems I can probably pick up a used one at a good price. I imagine that many or maybe even most are designed to fit /attach to most tractors.

 

[Notforhire]

I imagine that many or maybe even most are designed to fit /attach to most tractors.

To the best of my knowledge that is true. I would look at the belt drive type rather than the push rod design used by Ford. Some have a hyd. cylinder to raise and lower the cutting arm. You would need a rear hyd. remote on your tractor for that type. When you buy your tractor, at least one remote is a good idea anyway.

Good luck, Bill

 

[AchingBack]

I love the advice being given here. Especially like hearing about the sickle bar mower. Once a week I drive by my dealer, and see which new models of Mahindra have arrived. The 4025 makes me drool. I just don't have enough property to justify one.

 

[Notforhire]

I love the advice being given here. Especially like hearing about the sickle bar mower. Once a week I drive by my dealer, and see which new models of Mahindra have arrived. The 4025 makes me drool. I just don't have enough property to justify one.

I don't think that tractor is too big for mowing 50 acres. As a matter of fact, if it were me I would look at utility size rather than a CUT.

Looking at the spec. TractorData.com Mahindra 4025 tractor information I notice dry brakes. Most modern tractors have gone to wet brakes. Just another thing for you to think about.:confused2: There are lots of tractors out there, and lots of brands. Someone recomended a shuttle shift. Doing field work you wouldn't care, but doing loader work a syncro. shuttle is SOOO much easier.:thumbsup:

Happy shopping

Bill

 

[ToolBoxTavern]

Here is a link you might also find useful.

TractorData.com - Mowing with tractors

 

[keegs]

......Just another thing for you to think about.:confused2:

When you consider the long list of requirements that one might consider with the selection of a tractor and the fact that many of us are unfamiliar with the kind of features not only offered on the tractors but the attachments as well....this can be a difficult task.

Thanks again...to you guys for helping me get my head around it.

 

[ToolBoxTavern]

Here is something else to consider thanx to a buddy of mine puttin me in this thought process when I was looking and I'll share with you.

Tractor A cost $21,000 will do everything I need it to and is probably the right size and power.

Tractor B cost $27,000 and has 10+/- HP more and will definitely do everything I could imagine.

Now if I buy Tractor B I have one really nice tractor with power and possibly the bells and whistles to go with it. I can probably knock out my task a LITTLE faster, but not much. I can buy larger implements and attachments and probably will have to in order to cover the wider tire tracks/path. Now I am out of money because this tractor took all I had or is takin it all in monthly payments and not to mention the cost of the bigger implements and attachments. Now all you can do is look at it and wish you could use it! You end up with a tractor you cannot use.

Tractor A on the other hand will do it all with a little time and maybe creative thinkin from time to time, but works great and is cheaper, but the same exact quality and craftsmanship as Tractor B. Not only did I save a few thousand dollars, but now I have money left over or less of a payment which increases my chances of buying new and/or used implements and attachments that I can use. Now I am not just daydreaming bout using my tractor I AM USING IT!!

Once you have the big intial one time things done and over with how much power do you need to just be happy and maintain what you got going on? I am all for bigger is better! I live in TEXAS and it is all about BIG, but I would like to have a big pocket book one day also. Not to mention the bigger the unit and something happen usually the more expensive the parts.

Just another wrench in your thoughts!

You know you want the 4wd 4025!....lol...again.....lol.

Good Luck!

 

[streamin]

Just to add my comment, I would always go a bit bigger than you think you'll need. I have regretted buying too small, 3 years later I sold to go bigger and lost the money I had invested which would have paid for the difference in the beginning for the bigger one. I went from 32hp to 50hp. BTW, the 50 hp did great with a 6ft brushhog.

 

[Notforhire]

Just to add my comment, I would always go a bit bigger than you think you'll need. I have regretted buying too small, 3 years later I sold to go bigger and lost the money I had invested which would have paid for the difference in the beginning for the bigger one. I went from 32hp to 50hp. BTW, the 50 hp did great with a 6ft brushhog.

I agree. I have a 5 acre mini farm, and I sometimes push the limits of my 34hp tractor. The small tractor works out well because of some tight areas I have, if I had 50 acres things would be spread out a little more. I think a 45 to 55hp full size utility rather than a CUT will do just about anything you need to do. I also think that the utility size units are built heavier/ stronger.