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  1. #1
    Silver Member whiteh2o's Avatar
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    Jan 2008
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    145
    Location
    Boise Idaho
    Tractor
    Mahindra 2615 Gear FEL

    Default Work Light On 2615

    I bought a used 3-point snowblower last weekend and I am going to install a rear work light on my 2615. Since I don't have a service manual showing the wiring can someone tell me if there is an open hot wire connector near the ROPS? I really don't want to tap into the red light in the back if possible and if needed I will go directly to the battery with an in-line fuse. The light will have an on-off switch on the light. I noticed there is an open bolt hole by the red light on the ROPS (I think - tractor is not at this location). What is the size of metric bolt fits in this hole? All my 'extra' bolts laying around are SAE in the garage so I have nothing to work with.

    What have others done when installing a rear work light on a 15 series?

    Thank you in advance!

  2. #2
    Veteran Member
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
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    1,698
    Location
    Batavia, NY
    Tractor
    Mahindra -------------

    Default Re: Work Light On 2615

    On the rt side by the ROPS you will find a wire with a bullet type connector on it, that is live when the ignition switch is in the run position. It is the same curcuit as the red light, but I would think that it would work fine and you couldn't forget, leave the light on and run down the battery.
    Galen LaWall
    Your Mahindra Tractor Dealer
    185 Pearl Street
    Batavia, New York 14020
    585.343.0770

  3. #3
    Silver Member
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Posts
    244
    Location
    Central Maine
    Tractor
    Mahindra

    Default Re: Work Light On 2615

    This is neat.
    I JUST JUST did this exact thing on my 2615HST.,...for a snowblower.
    Change your post title to "Installing rear lights on 2615" & I'll post up my pictures & how I did it.

    I can't get my pics off my camera for some reason.
    I came to the conclusion that to do it right I'd have to run a totally separate wire (+12V) back to the ROPS from the key switch. Then rather than put an in-line fuse in some wierd lame location I decided to try to use the factory fuse panel. THEN since I knew I'd be adding more electrical circits in the future I decided to just get it over with and run the wires, put in the fuses, etc. right now.
    So,...I bought a few 4-flat trailer wiring connections, some wire flex loom, heat shirnk solderless elect connections, a aux fuse panel (to steal the fuse holders out of), etc.
    I jumpered from the wire that gets 12V when the key is turned on to three other fuse holders. From the other side of the fuses I tired in three wires from the 4-flat wiring & left one spare just in fuse panel area capped. I ran from there up into the dash where I installed two waterproof toogle switches. One switch is for the rear lights & one is for emergency/plowing lights (not yet installed)
    From there I went out under the tractor right beside the factory wiring bundle with my bundle of four wires (yellow, brown, blue, & white) back the a Y then to each ROPS attachment point. There I put on individual plug-in conectors for each wire. Then I ran up the ROPS to my rear lights.
    I have a four flat plug connector everywhere factory wiring had a plug connector.
    I ran a ground wire from the chasis under the dash to every load/ future load.
    I relabled the fuse panel cover to match the loads being fed.
    I encased everything is 3/8" or 1/2" black flex loom
    I taped red tape around the flex loom every 6" to identify it from the stock wiring.
    I left two spare wires from the fuse panel in the dash for future use.
    I left two spare wires from the rear area of the tractor in the dash for future use.
    I found out that there already is a spare wire & fuse holder in the fuse panel but the wire gauge is small & it ends in the dash.

    It all took me longer than I though it would,...about 6 hours.
    It came out nice though & for the next three electrical loads I add to the tractor it will be easy.
    Last edited by Wyld Bill; 03-25-2008 at 10:44 PM.
    "Contentment is not the fulfillment of what you want but the realization of how much you already have"
    "The best things in life,...aren't things"

  4. #4
    Silver Member whiteh2o's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
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    145
    Location
    Boise Idaho
    Tractor
    Mahindra 2615 Gear FEL

    Default Re: Work Light On 2615

    Thanks Wyld and Galen! I think I'll keep it simple for now (KISS <--me). I had an old light off a tractor with an on/off switch, however, I couldn't get it to work and it had serious rust problems. Couldn't even get 2 of the 4 screws out the back to check the bulb. I found an Agri-Light with an on-off switch from a local massy dealer for 36 dollars. It's an incased replaceable halogen flood. I think its 3x5 or 4x5. I found the extra red and black wire on the right side fender (looking at the tractor from the back) by the ROPS. Soldered some extra wire on the light ends last night and encased the whole thing in heat shrink. Tonight, weather permitting, I am going to drill a hole directly below the yellow hazard light mount on the back (not obstructing the hazard light) and connecting the light to the available wires via quick disconnect. I am not going to attach it higher on the ROPS since it's not user friendly when folding it down. Nor do I want to drill the fender. I'll wrap the whole thing in electrical tape and then flex loom. Should work great for now.

    Now, when I get ready to connect my heated Harley vest, coffee cup warmer, stereo system, CB radio, I'll go back and run the all the extra wire (pulling your chain Wyld?...ha). Seriously, it's a great idea, but I'll just deal with the one work light for now. Nuts, bolts, welding, etc. I can do. Electrical is not my forte?...ha...I get zapped every time I try to do household wiring. It's nice I have friends in the business that I can call on.

    I'll post pics when it's done if anyone is interested.

    Modifications to date:

    2x3x1/4" 59-1/2" angle iron welded to the top bucket lip.
    2 - grab hooks welded at the loader arm locations on the angle iron.
    2 - 12K d-rings hooks welded to the front of the tractor frame for transportation.
    2 - hooks with clevis pins installed on the available holes on the back swing arms for transportation.
    3 -12K d-rings welded to the 7000 gvw car hauler for transportation on each side.
    I made pallet forks that attach to the lower bucket lip as seen on e-bay. They attach with chains and binders wrapped around the bucket,
    Battery tender cables installed on the battery.
    Magnetic engine block heater purchased for the oil pan for next winter.
    Dealer installed the bucket ripper teeth.

    To do's:

    Modify the Harbor Freight 97214-1VGA 3-point quick hitch if necessary (I haven't tried to use it yet). Note: There are two different 3-point hitches in HF. One is 93691-1VGA and the inside clearance is only 26.5. 97214-1VGA is 27.5 inside clearence and it will match all my implements including the used Allied snowblower. For $69.99 and a $10.00 HF gift card, shipping for $10.00 dollars, I'll make it work. Bought a couple cat 2 bushings for a minimal cost from ASC since it appears the HF lower attachment is larger then cat 1 pins.

    Make a sun shade. I have most of the metal for a cover. I'm going to cover it with diamond plate and insulate it under with car firewall material.

    Install chrome rims, paint flames, and install some bad azz mufflers.....ha....not

    Once again thanks Wyld and Galen (LaWalls)!
    Last edited by whiteh2o; 03-26-2008 at 11:17 AM.

  5. #5
    Silver Member whiteh2o's Avatar
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    Jan 2008
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    145
    Location
    Boise Idaho
    Tractor
    Mahindra 2615 Gear FEL

    Default Re: Work Light On 2615

    The light is a J. W. Speaker model 900 4x6 with an on/off switch for those who can't find a work light with a switch.

  6. #6
    Gold Member knute_m's Avatar
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    Dec 2005
    Posts
    394
    Location
    Hilltop Hollow, WV
    Tractor
    Rehab of modern wrecks, now ranging from a 20 HP tractor, to a little Cat 320, to a really fun Cat 953 dirt mover.

    Default Re: Work Light On 2615

    Quote Originally Posted by whiteh2o
    I bought a used 3-point snowblower last weekend and I am going to install a rear work light on my 2615. Since I don't have a service manual showing the wiring can someone tell me if there is an open hot wire connector near the ROPS? I really don't want to tap into the red light in the back if possible and if needed I will go directly to the battery with an in-line fuse. The light will have an on-off switch on the light. I noticed there is an open bolt hole by the red light on the ROPS (I think - tractor is not at this location). What is the size of metric bolt fits in this hole? All my 'extra' bolts laying around are SAE in the garage so I have nothing to work with.

    What have others done when installing a rear work light on a 15 series?

    Thank you in advance!
    Here is a link to an old thread that has quite a bit of information about lights on 15-series. I posted a wiring diagram and wiring instruction in a post that is near the bottom of the second page. http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/m...ghlight=lights

    Good luck,
    Knute

  7. #7
    Silver Member whiteh2o's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Posts
    145
    Location
    Boise Idaho
    Tractor
    Mahindra 2615 Gear FEL

    Default Re: Work Light On 2615

    Hooked mine up tonight. Less then a half an hour. Looks like a factory install. It was spitting rain and trying to snow which is unusual this time of year. Pics to follow...

  8. #8

    Default Re: Work Light On 2615

    I bought some at harbor freight for 5 or 6 bucks each last fall. They are halogen and sealed in rubber with a glass lens, seems really durable. Mine is running off the little red light with a relay from the battery. One click of the headlight switch I have only rear lights for snowblowing and the second click runs the headlights and rear lights. Not the most ideal setup, but it works. I attached the lights using the holes already on the tractor. I think this would block the rops from swinging back, but I never have to take the rops down. The location of the lights protects them very well.
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