6000 clutch adjustment question

   / 6000 clutch adjustment question #1  

Slippy

Veteran Member
Joined
Sep 23, 2002
Messages
1,053
Location
Ohio
Tractor
Mahindra 6000 4wd; IH x2; NHTC40DSS; International 1086; JD 5115M
I think my clutch is showing signs of wear. I moved 400 round bales over the weekend and noticed that I have to let the clutch almost all the way out to the top before the tractor will begin to move.
I read the manual at page 50 and it talks about clutch pedal adjustment of 4.7" between top edge of pedal pad & the foot plate. It says clutch free play should be 20mm at stopper pad. What does this mean and how do I measure it.

It says the way to adjust is to turn the release shaft till the inner bearings stop against the fingers. What does that mean?
Help please.
 
   / 6000 clutch adjustment question #2  
I think my clutch is showing signs of wear. I moved 400 round bales over the weekend and noticed that I have to let the clutch almost all the way out to the top before the tractor will begin to move.
I read the manual at page 50 and it talks about clutch pedal adjustment of 4.7" between top edge of pedal pad & the foot plate. It says clutch free play should be 20mm at stopper pad. What does this mean and how do I measure it.

It says the way to adjust is to turn the release shaft till the inner bearings stop against the fingers. What does that mean?
Help please.

In inches, how much freeplay do you have at the top after you let out the clutch?? IE, once the clutch is let out; when you start to push it in, how far does the clutch pedal travel, before you notice pressure?
 
   / 6000 clutch adjustment question
  • Thread Starter
#3  
It is constant. It feels the same at the top as it does midway and to the bottom.
 
   / 6000 clutch adjustment question #4  
Bob, it sounds like the clutch is not releasing an I would not drive it until it was adjusted. You can burn up the clutch that would require breaking the tractor down to get to it. I dont mean to offend you, but it sounds like you may not have the aptitude to do the work. I think what they mean is that the clutch fingers ride against the throw out bearing and there is a 20mm, gap required. There is 25.4 mm to an inch so you can do the conversion, approx. 3/4". There must be a plate on the bell housing that you can remove to get to the adjustment. I have a 5525 so it is different than yours.

There are two ajustments. The peddal should travel easily, with your hands, before you fill resistance. It should ravel easily through a given distance and that is called free play. On my 5525, this is acomplished via external adjustment. It sounds as your 6000 has to be done via clutch finger or the rod that engages the clutch. In that case look for a link that pushes against the cluthch lever and there should be adjusting screw ends that lengthen or shorten the rod and this will free up the movement. Again, I'm visualizing this and dont have your diagram. It may be cheaper in the long run to have a mechanic do it for you. A lot cheaper than having to split the tractor and do a major clutch job.
 
   / 6000 clutch adjustment question #5  
Bob, it sounds like the clutch is not releasing an I would not drive it until it was adjusted. You can burn up the clutch that would require breaking the tractor down to get to it. I dont mean to offend you, but it sounds like you may not have the aptitude to do the work. I think what they mean is that the clutch fingers ride against the throw out bearing and there is a 20mm, gap required. There is 25.4 mm to an inch so you can do the conversion, approx. 3/4". There must be a plate on the bell housing that you can remove to get to the adjustment. I have a 5525 so it is different than yours.

There are two ajustments. The peddal should travel easily, with your hands, before you fill resistance. It should ravel easily through a given distance and that is called free play. On my 5525, this is acomplished via external adjustment. It sounds as your 6000 has to be done via clutch finger or the rod that engages the clutch. In that case look for a link that pushes against the cluthch lever and there should be adjusting screw ends that lengthen or shorten the rod and this will free up the movement. Again, I'm visualizing this and dont have your diagram. It may be cheaper in the long run to have a mechanic do it for you. A lot cheaper than having to split the tractor and do a major clutch job.
 
   / 6000 clutch adjustment question
  • Thread Starter
#6  
There is a lever that comes out from the side of the housing. This obviously works the enternal workings of the clutch. I assume what they want me to do is adjust the turnbuckle that connects to the lever coming out from the housing. It then says to rotate it till the inner bearings stop against the fingers. I assume that what that does is allow the clutch to be fully engaged so there is no pressure on the throw out bearing or clutch. Does that sound right?
 
   / 6000 clutch adjustment question #7  
It is constant. It feels the same at the top as it does midway and to the bottom.

Slippy, your adjuster, there's a double ended threaded link rod from your clutch pedal to the trans case...this is where you adjust the freeplay...by the way, it should be right at 1 inch freeplay, ie. no pressure felt. Adjust that first to get your clutch so that it is fully engaged. PS, not sure why the other other poster named Bob as someone who might not know enough to handle the situation....I think I do...since I have a 6000...Plus the Service Manual, Plus the Parts Manual....plus the tools...plus the knowhow. BobG in VA
 
   / 6000 clutch adjustment question
  • Thread Starter
#8  
Bob: Frankly, you have always been of significant help to me in my resolving my situations. Often I use basic concepts in posting that could easily give the impression that I don't know enough to fix it myself. But, I have found that with many posts if you don't start out that way, things can get off track, and sometimes it is not difficult to miss the obvious. I know exactly what you are referring to. I intended to release the trun buckle from the clutch lever that comes out of the bell housing. I was planning to shorten the trun buckle to make sure there is no pressure on the clutch lever. That will mean the clutch, throw out bearing and pressure plate are fully engaged. Then I was going to continue to shorten it until it resulted in a one inch free play as you push the pedel down. That free play will be resisted only by the spring tension and I should be able to see it move the one inch before the rest of the linkage and the clutch lever actually begin to move. Sound right? The directions in the manual are criptic at best.
 
   / 6000 clutch adjustment question #9  
Bob: Frankly, you have always been of significant help to me in my resolving my situations. Often I use basic concepts in posting that could easily give the impression that I don't know enough to fix it myself. But, I have found that with many posts if you don't start out that way, things can get off track, and sometimes it is not difficult to miss the obvious. I know exactly what you are referring to. I intended to release the trun buckle from the clutch lever that comes out of the bell housing. I was planning to shorten the trun buckle to make sure there is no pressure on the clutch lever. That will mean the clutch, throw out bearing and pressure plate are fully engaged. Then I was going to continue to shorten it until it resulted in a one inch free play as you push the pedel down. That free play will be resisted only by the spring tension and I should be able to see it move the one inch before the rest of the linkage and the clutch lever actually begin to move. Sound right? The directions in the manual are criptic at best.

You are correct sir. Good Luck. BobG in VA
 
   / 6000 clutch adjustment question #10  
You should be able to depress the clutch pedal 1" before you start feeling additional resistance. The lever on the linkage that attaches to the clutch internal machanisms will move as soon as you start depressing the pedal, but the additional resistance shouldn't start until the pedal has been depressed about 1".
 
 
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