When tractor won't go into certain gears

[michellesc7]

0h check this out:
Craftsman Professional 1/2 x 9/16 in. Full Polish Deep Offset Wrench, 12 pt. Box End

[485didriver]

Michelle, I have the 485 DI. Same issue, though. Dunno if that offset wrench will work with mine, the way the two bolt heads are so close together. Might be worth trying, though!

[skipmarcy]

Originally Posted by michellesc7

Yep
I have the same problem. No low range completely and no High 4th gear (8th).
Do you have a 4505?
You know these are remakes of an international tractor(dont know the model though)- what is their solution?

Yes that is the bolt - we looked saturday at 3 part stores, one hardware and wallmart.
I think what is needed is a 9/16" offset wrench. My Daddy taught me well. I have not procured and tried one yet.
The next step is to determine what surprise is causing the problems under the cover.
I feel something is loose or binding and judging from your same problems there is a trend here. Maybe one of these dealer smart guys can respond. My shop said they got rid of the 4505 books which really lit me up the other day.

Let me know what I need to know.
Thanks
Michelle

Looks like a typical distributor wrench should handle that bolt, especially if it is 9/16" - KD tools or Lisle tools are available everywhere and have made the various distributor wrenches for decades. One for old GM is 9/16". Another option would be a boxed crow's foot wrench in 3/8" drive, I have Mac & Snap-On but have seen many offbrands too.

[MrChris]

Curious about the history of these tractors your discussing. Were the 3 digit models (485DI,575DI) the predecessors to the 4 digit models (4505DI,5005DI)? And are the current 25 series pretty much the replacement for these? Thanks

[AchingBack]

TractorData.com - Mahindra tractors sorted by power http://www.billstractor.com/mahindrahistory.htm Mahindra Tractor farm equipments history

[485didriver]

Issue I had was not being able to get any wrench that was boxed around the horizontal bolt (see bottom pic on first page of the thread), because the large vertical bolt keeps me from getting around it. Then, when I DID get it loose with an open faced wrench, it couldn't back all the way out b/c of the vertical bolt. Sigh. So it looks as if I'll have to remove the one vertical bolt regardless, to get the horizontal bolt out.

[LAWALLSTRACTOR]

I would torch the top off of that bolt, and work it out with a pair of needle nose vice grips and maybe replace it with a shorter bolt, if you can.

[485didriver]

Updated as of 8 am this morning: an offset box wrench won't work on my 485 DI, the fit between the two bolt heads is just too tight. I eventually DID get the 3/4" bolt loosened (the vertical bolt I describe, from the hydraulic control) and unscrewed it as far as it would go, but it won't come all the way out because of the top tranny cover. It DID come far enough out that it no longer interfered with the 9/16" bolt on the transmission plate, so that suckered me into thinking that I had this thing beat. But.... the 9/16" bolt is too long and will not come out due to interference from the hydraulic control. So the only way to get the top cover off is to follow the instructions in the manual, which are to remove the entire rear (the lift arms, 3 pt setup, hydraulic reservoir) and THEN take that one %$#@ bolt out. Local guy quoted me 10 book hours and the cost of parts, which will end up roughly $800 per his "rough estimate." Joy.

My brother is an auto mechanic, and he is willing to come up next weekend and work on it with me. We might just try to get this thing broken down, though until it's completely disassembled, I won't even know if I can fix the issue (the local guy tells me over the phone that it's likely the counter shaft, and that the reason that 4th didn't work was that it originally had a couple teeth break and then progressed to the point that I lost all my low range). That part lists for over $200.00 alone.

Anyone that's done this kind of stuff before have any input, whether good, bad, or indifferent? Anyone wanna talk me down from the ledge here? Anyone?

[skipmarcy]

Originally Posted by 485didriver

Updated as of 8 am this morning: an offset box wrench won't work on my 485 DI, the fit between the two bolt heads is just too tight. I eventually DID get the 3/4" bolt loosened (the vertical bolt I describe, from the hydraulic control) and unscrewed it as far as it would go, but it won't come all the way out because of the top tranny cover. It DID come far enough out that it no longer interfered with the 9/16" bolt on the transmission plate, so that suckered me into thinking that I had this thing beat. But.... the 9/16" bolt is too long and will not come out due to interference from the hydraulic control. So the only way to get the top cover off is to follow the instructions in the manual, which are to remove the entire rear (the lift arms, 3 pt setup, hydraulic reservoir) and THEN take that one %$#@ bolt out. Local guy quoted me 10 book hours and the cost of parts, which will end up roughly $800 per his "rough estimate." Joy.

My brother is an auto mechanic, and he is willing to come up next weekend and work on it with me. We might just try to get this thing broken down, though until it's completely disassembled, I won't even know if I can fix the issue (the local guy tells me over the phone that it's likely the counter shaft, and that the reason that 4th didn't work was that it originally had a couple teeth break and then progressed to the point that I lost all my low range). That part lists for over $200.00 alone.

Anyone that's done this kind of stuff before have any input, whether good, bad, or indifferent? Anyone wanna talk me down from the ledge here? Anyone?

Don't know anything about your particular model of tractor but if you're getting ready to do some internal hardparts repair/replacement you just need to be prepared. In my opinion $200 give or take in parts isn't too bad, even $500 for a good-running tractor isn't too bad. One word of advice - if you're going to do a major split be sure and do it on a good concrete surface. The major sections of a tractor are very heavy and you will have to support part of it on good jack stands and the section you roll away will have to do so smoothly on a good floor jack. When I do a major split I usually get the oil(s) draining first then start disassembly on misc. stuff and let the oil drain as long as possible before making the split, overnite if possible. Makes for a slightly cleaner work area. Usually the most difficult part is mating the 2 major sections back up - there are usually shafts to align while rolling the heavy pieces back together - a helper is nice here but I've done several by myself. Don't cut corners while inside - fix whatever you see bad while you've got it apart, check bearings, gears etc. good. Most bearings can be had from your local NAPA store at better prices, get the numbers off the old bearings and races, same for seals. Gears, shafts, syncronizers etc. will have to come from a dealer. Sounds like you have a manual for the tractor - study it before you start. The job will be a pain but you will get thru it and should have a fully functional tractor when thru and you will gain self-satisfaction from doing the repair yourself. Go for it !!!

[F350]

This won't help with the lost low range, but the "no 4th gear" thing happens with the older Mahindra's. More often than not you do have 4th gear, the tranny just won't go into it easily.

I had the same "4th gear" problem. I pulled the cotter pin at the base of the gear shifter, puller up the metal/rubber washer, spring and the cover at the base of the shifter and sprayed penetrating oil all around where the shifter goes into the transmission. Reassembled and I have 4th gear. You have to go all the way to the right and up to slide into it. Actually, you have to bump the shifter into it. Hope this helps.........

F350