3215 starts, runs and then dies after 2-3 seconds

[Timmanny]

Thanks to all,
Well i am thinking that it is the solenoid, won't know till i can get to it. I was at my mom's tonight where tractor is at moment. Of course it was dark, couldn't hardly see it with a flash light. Will have to remove bracket to electric fuel pump to get to it,as it seemed to me. To answer a few questions seems to have a gallon or two flowing out of electric pump. No trash in strainer. Warranty over about a year and a few months. I have been pleased with the tractor. Done most every thing i've put in front of it. I am a drafter for small company in lower Alabama. We have a plasma cutter for which i setup a grapple to cut out of 1/4" plate. I just used mild steel. I made a deal with one of our welders and cut 2 sets out of a 5' x 10' sheet, gave him second set of flat plate pieces for his "green" tractor to do welding. Was able to get 11 fingers for the bottom part and 4 for the top. Even cut some of the parts to make my own skid steer mount bracket. Throwing a mix of some 3/8" plate and bar some 3" x 3" tubing I have a very usable grapple loader. Toward front of lower fingers, running across the width is a 3/8" x 3" flat bar that basically is parallel with the ground. The small semi-pointed tips were the doubled on each side to make them 3/4" thick. So far it has worked very well. The weight is around 400 lbs. Was using grapples at my mom's. There was a dead pine that came down to clean up and some other stuff while it was there. I don't think my problem is too serious, at least i pray and hope not. It's just the inability to work on it when I would like to. And my fingers are not that tiny either to reach into those small spaces.
Once again thanks to all,
Tim

 

[Timmanny]

Okay, what was finally figured out is that the ETR (energized to run), solenoid is controlled by two wires. One lead to open fuel to injector pump during start cycle of key switch and other wire used in the run position. On my solenoid only the start position lead is working. The run position lead will not work or operate the solenoid. This would allow the engine to start, but as key is released from start position the fuel is then shut off. I have not had much luck tracing down a solenoid for it and there are no part numbers on mine to even search for. I will be tring to get a one directly from a mitsubishi dealer if no one else knows where I can find one. What I did do for the moment was remove the dead circuit from the wire connector and tape it up to prevent any shorts and swap in the good terminal to receive the electrical current in the run position. I don't know how long the solenoid will last this way, but it doesn't seem to be getting hot or anything out of ordinary. So now I turn key to on position to allow glow plugs to work and then start the tractor as normal and it continues to run as normal. I was able to use it an hour or so at my mom's. Nice to be back in drivers seat. I do have an access to a Mitsu dealer through my work that I should get some info from this week, although with it being Thanksgiving week I wont hold my breath. Thank you for your help. May all of you have a blessed Thanksgiving and remember to that the Lord for His blessings.
Tim and "Manny"

 

[dfkrug]

Okay, what was finally figured out is that the ETR (energized to run), solenoid is controlled by two wires. One lead to open fuel to injector pump during start cycle of key switch and other wire used in the run position. On my solenoid only the start position lead is working. The run position lead will not work or operate the solenoid. This would allow the engine to start, but as key is released from start position the fuel is then shut off.

Yes, that is how the 2-coil FI solenoid works on my JD. In addition to what
you describe, there is a thermistor in series with the start coil so that it
shuts down after the engine starts and the hold coil takes over. I don't
know Mahindras, but you may want to look at the wiring diagram and
elsewhere in the coil circuit for other components. I would not buy a new
solenoid until you test it and find one of the coils is bad (short or open).
You may just have trouble in the hold coil control, not the coil itself.

BTW, your grapple looks great. I gather Manny is the plasma cutter artist?
Or is that your handle for the tractor?

 

[Timmanny]

The solenoid is one sealed unit. The wires leading to the plug seem to be operating as they should, while I had the solenoid off for testing I found the "run" side was inoperable. I can only take it that it is dead/broke within housing, can't find break in wire. But, since the "start" side works I used it to at least get "Manny" on his own feet. To answer your question of "Manny" my wife wanted to "name" the tractor when we got it, and around that time we watched "Ice age" the cartoon, "Manny the moody mammoth" came to mind. If you want to know who did plasma "artwork" that was just my drawing, part of what I do at work. Thanks for kind words on my grapples. They helped me clean after Ivan.

Thanks
Tim and Manny

 

[Willl]

What I did do for the moment was remove the dead circuit from the wire connector and tape it up to prevent any shorts and swap in the good terminal to receive the electrical current in the run position.

So your supplying power to the 'run' side/wire of the solenoid ?

 

[Willl]

The 'run' side is a 'holding' circuit only, don't expect it to pull the plunger in on its own.

 

[dfkrug]

If you want to know who did plasma "artwork" that was just my drawing, part of what I do at work. Thanks for kind words on my grapples. They helped me clean after Ivan.

And Ivan was the earlier sloppier tractor?

I am not very steady at free hand cutting with my plasma torch, so I
have to use guides and templates. Was your lettering done with a
template or free hand?

 

[Sergei]

Okay, what was finally figured out is that the ETR (energized to run), solenoid is controlled by two wires. One lead to open fuel to injector pump during start cycle of key switch and other wire used in the run position. On my solenoid only the start position lead is working. The run position lead will not work or operate the solenoid. This would allow the engine to start, but as key is released from start position the fuel is then shut off. I have not had much luck tracing down a solenoid for it and there are no part numbers on mine to even search for. I will be tring to get a one directly from a mitsubishi dealer if no one else knows where I can find one. What I did do for the moment was remove the dead circuit from the wire connector and tape it up to prevent any shorts and swap in the good terminal to receive the electrical current in the run position. I don't know how long the solenoid will last this way, but it doesn't seem to be getting hot or anything out of ordinary. So now I turn key to on position to allow glow plugs to work and then start the tractor as normal and it continues to run as normal. I was able to use it an hour or so at my mom's. Nice to be back in drivers seat. I do have an access to a Mitsu dealer through my work that I should get some info from this week, although with it being Thanksgiving week I wont hold my breath. Thank you for your help. May all of you have a blessed Thanksgiving and remember to that the Lord for His blessings.
Tim and "Manny"

Did you check the relay that is in the circuit? That's what keeps the solenoid energized. From looking at the circuit diagram it looks like your just by passing the load relay which is energized by the ignition switch. Before buying a new solenoid check the load relay circuit, to me that more likely the issue since you also blew a fuse in that circuit also it could be your ignition switch has a problem with the load part of the switch and is not picking the relay.

Also you know the the start circuit is working because the tractor does start, this circuit is where people have problems with the PTO not in the correct position. Check the load side of the switch!

 

[Timmanny]

On the solenoid I will try to explain as best as I can. If you have the solenoid itself in your hand it has the threaded end from which the plunger protrudes out, and two wires on the other end. It didn't seem to be possible to take apart without damaging it. The two wires (about 4" long) have a connector with the male "blades" inside. Power is correct all the way through all relays and safeties. I have "juice" all the way through the system. On the solenoid itself the wire that is supposed to keep plunger retracted on the "run" side does not operate. The "start" side wire is the only one that activates the plunger. The fuse did blow at first and the "spare" 10 amp blew also. I had tried a 15 amp which did not blow which was replaced by a "new" 10 amp which didn't blow either. Since the solenoid only worked on the "start" wire I switched it to the "run" side in the plug and taped up the "original" "run" wire to prevent shorts or what have you. The solenoid didn't get warm or anything out of the ordinary. Yes this may be a little unorthodox but the solenoid would not operate any other way. It's "run" side just simply died. The "start" side of the solenoid may not last as long or be quite as strong but, it operates the plunger. I may be wrong on this but, maybe it has the 2 wires "run" and start" because some systems lose "run" power while the "start" power exists. I hope that made sense. I'm not bypassing anything unless it is within the solenoid itself. I will run it this way until I can obtain a replacement or if anything seems to cause a problem. All protection by fuses is still there. I did run it for an hour or so without incident.

As far as "Ivan" all jokes aside, it was one messy hurricane. People even here not far from me still have some evidence to remove. Some people are even a little emotionally changed by it. As a matter of fact. I don't like to think of it myself.

The plasma cutter at my work is a computer driven plasma table. I draw in 2 dimensional (2D) format which is then converted to CNC operations for the cutter table. So no, I wouldn't have a steady hand for cutting either. I do like working with it though, your only boundary is flat plate and imagination. Hope I covered everything, once I start one of these long explanations I forget what my previous posts were, HA HA.....

And to dfkrug as much as you seem to fab there are some kits you can get to use hand held plasma cutters such as "torchmate" that is just one but i believe there are others. Many you just build your own table to put their gantry upon.

Thanks to all.
Tim and Manny.

 

[dfkrug]

It sounds like the Hold coil is bad. Usually the service manual will have
a resistance spec so you can test the coil, but if not, you should get at
least a few Ohms from each terminal to ground (the body of the coils).

As for your plasma cutting, it makes complete sense that you had your
steel cut on a CNC cutter. I have my repetitive stuff done that way, too,
but I send it to a shop in LA. The costs are quite reasonable.