Ignition switch is junk on my 2615

[Wyld Bill]

That is a good point but when I dissected the last one it was a mechanical failure of the internal mechanism not an electrical overamp condition. Maybe it was different this time I didn't take it apart. Maybe ill do an Amp draw on the main power wire with everything on to see what I am getting.
Btw when you said "I did some research on this" I thought you meant that you researched how many replacement ignition switches have been sold since 2002 or something like that lol.

 

[Wyld Bill]

That is a good point but when I dissected the last one it was a mechanical failure of the internal mechanism not an electrical overamp condition. Maybe it was different this time I didn't take it apart. Maybe ill do an Amp draw on the main power wire with everything on to see what I am getting.
Btw when you said "I did some research on this" I thought you meant that you researched how many replacement ignition switches have been sold since 2002 or something like that lol.

Ok so my ignition switch crapped out AGAIN.
I think there may be some truth to what Daves Tractor said.
The alternator should be plenty big enough for the loads I have but after looking at the wiring diagram and the latest ignition switch I bought, I can see the problem.
All of the power for every electrical load goes THROUGH the ignition switch. So I have like 30+Amps going through a switch that is rated at a measly 15 amps!
So I need either A- a bigger amperage ignition switch or B- a isolation relay off the switch (switch powers coil on relay, relay send power to loads)

 

[DavesTractor]

Bill, glad you figured this out. I swear we almost never ever sell a ignition switch for a 15/16 series....so something odd had to be happening. I put some big Cibie lights on my new Jeep. I upsized the wiring and installed relays. My switches only provide a signal to the relay, almost zero amperage goes through the switch. BTW, if you switch those halogens to LED lights your load will go way down, but your wallet will hurt! I installed some big LED's on the Jeep as well, and just for grins I put those through a relay as well but I probably didn't have to do that. Good for you for figuring this out. I dislike running much power through any switch, especially since relays are so cheap.

Here is a relay set-up I made to run my stump grinder. I attached this relay box to the grinder, then I just have a simple electric joystick in the cab (skid steer) that sends right/left and in/out commands to the electric/hydraulic valves. I have one hot lead going to the relay box, and decent size leads going to the valves. Everything else is light duty.

 

[tcartwri]

Ok so my ignition switch crapped out AGAIN.
I think there may be some truth to what Daves Tractor said.
The alternator should be plenty big enough for the loads I have but after looking at the wiring diagram and the latest ignition switch I bought, I can see the problem.
All of the power for every electrical load goes THROUGH the ignition switch. So I have like 30+Amps going through a switch that is rated at a measly 15 amps!
So I need either A- a bigger amperage ignition switch or B- a isolation relay off the switch (switch powers coil on relay, relay send power to loads)

Hey Bill, There are universal HD switches that are rated for the power you need, or you can add a relay block for your extra loads.

Something like this;

HELLA-H84988001-4-Way-Mini-Relay

Plus I think that chute rotator is pulling allot more amps than you think.

 

[Navasot]

The lights you are running are they UV light?

Some small LED bars will cut down on a lot of your draw if so and give you just as much light