Who torques their loaders?

[chubby]

3616 HST Cabin, heading to 100 hours and time to check loader bolts torque. Does anyone know where to by the tool shown in the manuel to check the bolts, 4 on each side at the front cab. You can't even see these bolts let alone touch them. In the past I have retorqued all bolts except these eight. Took back to the dealer and they said they torqued them. I asked them about the special tools and they said they would get back to me and never did. I did have bolts loose at 25 and 50 hours. I just retorqued my loader and backhoe on my Kioti at 200 hrs and still had some, only 2, loose. The loader is a 116skc. I had the Cub Cadet version of this tractor without cab and it was not as tough as this with the cab. I also have known owners of the Cub Cadet 7265 that never checked loader bolts, they loosened and longated the bolt holes that went into the block. Please give me some idea where to buy the tools to get to these bolts. Or some ideas on how to get to the bolts.

 

[JerryK]

Since no one has chimed in with a loader like yours... here's my two cents. I have a 5035 with a larger loader than yours, but I checked my loader/backhoe subframe bolts on mine. I could only get a bonified torque wrench on some of the bolts, and did the rest with a bunch of large combination wrenches and a feel for how much 'ooomp' to put on the wrench for that tight feeling. Did not have any special wrench, but some of the bolts are real hard to get to. I got the long handle metric wrenches from Harbor Freight, to go with the other big metric wrenchs I had acumulated thru the years. I also bought a 1 1/8" - 1 1/2" trailer ball [ about $10 ] wrench from the Wally to get the oil drain plugs out of the bottom of the oil pan. So, can't really say much about a 'special wrench', but you might get something else to work if you look into it. Got to keep them bolts tight.... Good luck, Jerry

 

[PILOON]

OK, I'll add my 2 cents.
A torque wrench is a torque wrench. Lots of choices out there, from SnapOn to ChiCom.
Problem will mainly be access to the bolts therefor extensions and maybe swivel needed.
The job of a torque wrench is to tighten as much as possible without stripping the bolt or nut. (specs differ for sizes and grades of bolts)
That being said, you generally can simply go 'real tight' but not strip the threads and that will be better than doing nothing.
The goal is that you do not want bolts to wander and oval out the mounting holes.
Not being a professional mechanic, I'd suggest a simple 'import' torque wrench mainly to assure consistency rather than precision as in reality on a loader frame it is not all that critical.
Were you torquing aluminum heads that would be a different matter.
I'll bet a dealer simply uses a pneumatic nut driver and drives the nuts 'nice and tight' and not use a torque gauge or wrench.

 

[newbury]

What I've done is practice. Find a wrench you can get on to the target problem bolt/nut.
Take a similar bolt thats accessible. Loosen it up and tighten it with a good torque wrench to the target torque several times. Then loosen it and try to tighten it with the wrench that fits. After a few repeats you should now have "calibrated" your muscles and know about how much "oomph and elbow grease" to apply.

And based on some dealers unless you watched them do it, I wouldn't be surprised if the dealer just wiped the dirt off the problem bolts. You need to paint the heads to see if they were moved or torqued on at all.

 

[DFB]

If I read the post right you dont have access to the 8 front bolts. And the tool will do that for you? What does that special tool look like anyhow

 

[mikehaugen]

I agree with the others about not having to have it precisely to the ft/lb, but if it does concern you and you are willing to spend the money, Snap-On (and I am sure others) make a torque wrench with interchangeable heads... such as an open end wrench, or box wrench, I think even ratcheting wrenches. Not sure if that would help you get to them though since I am not familiar with your tractor... maybe a picture? Also, most torque wrenches will give you a formula to apply for using attachments other than sockets, such as a crow's-foot wrench or something.

 

[chubby]

Today loader manufacturer emailed me some directions on how to remove two (I guess) inspection cover on the inside of cab. So after looking at the email, I can actually see all 8 bolts that are buried by tractor cab. These bolts are high from underside view and so you can't see them from underneath tractor. But if all goes as displayed this should be possible to do. As for what to use, yes I have torque wrenches both 1/2 and 3/8. Issue is getting something on the bolt head. Crowsfoot fit some but others it is entertaining. The wrench displayed in owners manual is about 5-6" long, open end but the handle is short and staggered, like you welded three handles on top of each other. I did look on Snap-on site and they do offer a hammer type wrench that is designed to be hammered. I still don't understand how you will be able to get a torque rating on the wrench. So I am going to have to guess. But at least I can get to most and retorque. With the responses from other 3616 owners I am thinking many are not checking, and this is a major issue down the road. Thanks for all your imput.

 

[AchingBack]

Not only do these bolts need to be torqued, you should apply the correct formula of LOCTITE. If you can see the bolts, be sure to make a scribed mark on the bolts, and the frame. If you do, you will be able to see, or feel if they have loosened.

 

[chubby]

Oh happy day! After removing some of the cowling, the lower part below the instrument panel and pulling up the front half of the flooring I was able to get to the two inspection plates that I has to remove and could see all eight bolts. Torqueing them was a breeze with a crowsfoot wrench. It was so good to get them checked that I went back and torqued them again! Because I could! This part of the maint. was the only thing that had me concerned from day one with this small tractor. If you have a 3616 cab hst and you have not done now is the time. Three of the eight were loose, and this is the second time this has been done. In case you are looking for these of the eight, four are just below the floor and the other four are just above the floor. Three on each side are under the cab, the other is near engine compartment.