Tkblacktail
Gold Member
- Joined
- Feb 13, 2011
- Messages
- 298
My 3016 came with the rear wheels set in a narrow position; with a lot of advice here in TractorByNet and from my dealer, I was able to make it happen in conjunction with my initial 10 hour service.
The sheer weight of the tires, my lack of physical fitness, and my lack of lifting equipment makes this project a 8 on a scale of 1-10 in difficulty. It reminded me of fighting GIs from Nebraska; lots of aikido & grunting.
For anyone interested, the sequence I used follows; I wanted to keep my valve stems on the outside which gives me the second widest stance possible (as far as I know).
Set the parking brake, break the related nuts loose but leave snug.
Secure, raise and properly support the tractor just off the surface/floor.
Same for both wheels
Remove tire/wheel assembly (keeping it vertical) and position it against a steady object (keep the ballast calm).
Remove the nuts securing the disk to the rim except for the nuts closest to the valve stem.
With the nuts next to the valve stem loose but still in place, tap the disk off the keys until it breaks loose.
It is imperative to protect the valve stem while the disk is separated from the rim.
These rims hold a carriage bolt secure on either side so I arranged the disk back onto the inside of the rim slots.
The rim keys center the disk as it is tightened & torqued in the same manner as any wheel (star patterns).
Check for centering anyway.
Situate the wheel close to the hub (tread direction), use of a block and a 4 foot 2X4, lift (pry) the wheel up & onto the hub.
Most difficult part for me
Holding the tire assemble against the hub, pry on the front of the tire, rotate the tire disk until the lug holes line up; insert top lug first. I seen in another post where a guy used a temp wheel stud to hang the wheel.
Rotate the rim as needed and insert the rest of the lug bolts; tighten & torque as you would any wheel (star pattern).
Easy street
Lower the tractor; conduct pre-operations checks, drive around a bit and recheck the torque.
I know a pen and checkbook is easier, but this was a challenge and fun. View attachment 317975
I was left with a wider stance (couple inches est), the disk nuts facing inward, and my valve stems facing out.
I will see how this goes, if I need more stability, I will switch the tires to the opposite sides for the maximum stance and have the valve stems on the inside.
The sheer weight of the tires, my lack of physical fitness, and my lack of lifting equipment makes this project a 8 on a scale of 1-10 in difficulty. It reminded me of fighting GIs from Nebraska; lots of aikido & grunting.
For anyone interested, the sequence I used follows; I wanted to keep my valve stems on the outside which gives me the second widest stance possible (as far as I know).
Set the parking brake, break the related nuts loose but leave snug.
Secure, raise and properly support the tractor just off the surface/floor.
Same for both wheels
Remove tire/wheel assembly (keeping it vertical) and position it against a steady object (keep the ballast calm).
Remove the nuts securing the disk to the rim except for the nuts closest to the valve stem.
With the nuts next to the valve stem loose but still in place, tap the disk off the keys until it breaks loose.
It is imperative to protect the valve stem while the disk is separated from the rim.
These rims hold a carriage bolt secure on either side so I arranged the disk back onto the inside of the rim slots.
The rim keys center the disk as it is tightened & torqued in the same manner as any wheel (star patterns).
Check for centering anyway.
Situate the wheel close to the hub (tread direction), use of a block and a 4 foot 2X4, lift (pry) the wheel up & onto the hub.
Most difficult part for me
Holding the tire assemble against the hub, pry on the front of the tire, rotate the tire disk until the lug holes line up; insert top lug first. I seen in another post where a guy used a temp wheel stud to hang the wheel.
Rotate the rim as needed and insert the rest of the lug bolts; tighten & torque as you would any wheel (star pattern).
Easy street
Lower the tractor; conduct pre-operations checks, drive around a bit and recheck the torque.
I know a pen and checkbook is easier, but this was a challenge and fun. View attachment 317975
I was left with a wider stance (couple inches est), the disk nuts facing inward, and my valve stems facing out.
I will see how this goes, if I need more stability, I will switch the tires to the opposite sides for the maximum stance and have the valve stems on the inside.
Last edited: