Mahindra 3525 Electric gauges Not working, other maintanence questions

[2manyrocks]

Picked up a 2005 model 3525 with about 400 hours. After cleaning the electrical connectors, I got the front lights to work, but none of the electrical guages (volts, fuel, temperature) are working. The prior owner let it sit outside and apparently never changed a filter.

I've checked all the fuses, and they are good. Cleaned the contacts in the electrical connectors beneath the steering wheel. cleaned and tightened the alternator outputs. Getting 12.89 v at the battery with the engine off and 14.17 volts with the engine at idle.

Is there a relay that would cause all the electric gauges not to work?

This unit also has a loader. Is there an easy way to change the air filter without removing the loader?

What engine oil and filter?

Dealer already changed the hydraulic oil and filters and the fuel filters.

Also looking for a copy of an owner's manual if anybody can help me out.

Thanks.

 

[2manyrocks]

Tried cleaning ground connection attached to the steering column. Electric gauges are still not working.

?

 

[JerryK]

You can try MAHINDRA USA TRACTORS 24/7 OWNER'S CARE and enter your tractor serial number. That 'should' allow you to read the owners manual online. Could have a electrical print in the back of it like my 5035 does. Gage problem would be hard to trouble shoot without the print. Could be bad key switch, bad fuse, bad ground, rodent chompin' on wires, etc... just a guess without the print. See manuals on Ebay once and awhile, you could look there. Or just go to local dealer/online parts dealer and pay the $$$ ... Good luck, and enjoy your new to you tractor...!!!! [ I use Mahindra filters, Tractor Supply Company Premium Hyd fluid, and Rotella T or Dello 400 motor oil from the Wally, but that's just me... ]

 

[JerryK]

Oh ya, I also use synthetic grease on everything [ especially the PTO shaft universals ] except the backhoe, which I grease more often with less expensive, but good enough, stuff.... Also, don't even set my 30 year old beat up wheel barrow outside for storage.... [ if you all was a wondering... ]

 

[drajj5]

none of the electrical guages (volts, fuel, temperature) are working..

I've checked all the fuses, and they are good. Cleaned the contacts in the electrical connectors beneath the steering wheel. cleaned and tightened the alternator outputs. Getting 12.89 v at the battery with the engine off and 14.17 volts with the engine at idle.

Is there a relay that would cause all the electric gauges not to work?



Thanks.

Never worked on your tractor and have no idea where you have already looked but you are on right track.... Bet you a nickel that your instrument cluster shares a common ground. Volt meter, fuel gauge, and temp sender probably tied to the same ground(somewhere).

I would access the back of the cluster and check the volt gauge first. you can obviously use a VOM, so with the switch 'ON' and wiring for cluster exposed - find the cannon plug (plastic connector) that you cluster attaches to the main harness. follow the 2 colored leads back from the volt gauge to this connector and do a pin test there.... with the connector separated you can "do your test on the main harness side" by first placing one meter lead on a good ground on the frame of your tractor and the other lead on each of the 2 pins to find 12v to your meter. Now you have identified which wire is the 12v FEED to the gauge. The other pin you tested is your ground which did not have voltage present.
So - if all goes well you have proven that 12vdc exist at one of the wires leading to the gauge and the other has none. remember those 2 wires and reconnect cannon plug.
To prove a ground issue you can stick a safety pin in the confirmed wire that had no voltage present during your check and jump a spare wire (ie old speaker wire) to a ground source. this should cause your gauge to start working, all gauges should work if they are tied to the same ground. Now the daunting task of finding the loose/corroded/hidden ground wire.

I have never attempted to explain this with writing before and it was tough to do. So if their are others who think I botched this- please chime in. If you don't feel comfortable don't do what I just wrote. However, it seems that you have some experience with simple wiring as you seem to know your way around a VOM. It is the only reason I shared this information
good luck

 

[2manyrocks]

Thanks for the link to the manuals. Very helpful.

It appears to me that the ground is right at the steering column. It's been cleaned and the gauges still don't work. Haven't put a VOM to the gauges themselves yet, but I suspect they are messed up from sitting in the rain.

 

[burzynsr]

My 4025 tach and temp gauges stick quite often especially after it has sat a week or so. A couple of quick raps on the instrument panel fixes the problem. It is a little bit of an iritation, but not worth replacing the instrument cluster.

 

[2manyrocks]

Got the gauges working again by taking the cover off and spraying the inside of them with some breakfree since couldn't find my WD40. I worked them back and forth a bit to loosen them up.

Unfortunately, I thought it would be better to pull the little panels off and I broke two of the indicator arms in the process. This is totally unnecessary. Just spray the lube with a straw inside the gauges under the gauge panels. Oh well...

 

[JerryK]

Breakfree CLP... clean, lube, and protect your guages..... [ probably a better choice than the WD40 anyway.. ] I like learning by experience...even if it takes more time and costs more the 1st time.... now you are a guage pro..!!!!

 

[2manyrocks]

My biggest mistake was in trying to remove the gauge indicator needles to gain access to the gauge internals. that's where I broke two needles which are not available. My dealer could only order the entire instrument panel for about $300. I have ordered some replacement gauges from mowpart.com and a new instrument panel seal for about $100.

I think owners having these issues should try spraying the internals with a quality lube and then replacing the instrument panel seal if it looks questionable. Mine was aged from exposure to the weather.

Curiously, I see that there is an aftermarket instrument panel available for about $150 but the oil pressure is electrical and requires an electrical send. There also appears to be an LED indicator instead of the voltmeter on the oem panel. Makes me wonder if these OEM panels aren't the greatest for there to be an aftermarket panel available?