Have done my pressure plate a few times - mine has a tendency to break one of the adjusting bolts every so often when worked hard. I have a spare pressure plate that I think I'll get a machine shop to upgrade to larger bolts for the next breakdown. I prefer to adjust the fingers with the flywheel on the bench instead of mounted to the crankshaft and vertical. Just mount the disc & plate and torque the bolts down and do your adjusting. The service manual spec is 65mm (2.559") +/- .7mm (.030") from the face of the flywheel to the top of the forks. This measurement is extremely hard to get without their special tool but I rigged-up for it years ago and once I had them set I took a measurement from the back of the pressure plate to the top of the forks and came up with 1.150" and have used that since. It puts them where my clutch linkage will adjust properly when all reassembled. Your tractor could be different, you'll just have to figure it out.
Be sure to use some blue Loctite on the bolts that hold the thick plate to the engine block - I had a serious problem back when my tractor was nearly new where they loosened-up and broke a few and my tractor was splitting in half, rubbed the starter nosecone on the flywheel. The factory didn't use any Loctite and there isn't enough clearance to use lock washers on the ones behind the flywheel so I had to replace all the bolts. Don't make the same mistake I did my first go around either - the pilot bearing goes in the flywheel, not the crankshaft. It will fit in either place but if in the crank the input shaft won't reach it and your clutch won't release because of the unsupported input shaft.
Good luck on your project ...
