Diff Lock on a new Mahindra 1526

[Dave Pee]

Roger that, James --- but in a hairy situation that needs max traction to not fall into hole, I may need the diff locked the whole time. I suppose as long as I am applying torque to back out, the diff will never unlock.

 

[k0ua]

Roger that, James --- but in a hairy situation that needs max traction to not fall into hole, I may need the diff locked the whole time. I suppose as long as I am applying torque to back out, the diff will never unlock.

One foot on the diffy lock and one foot on the reverse pedal, but if there is really some danger, I would prefer to not get that close in the first place. You could use something like a pole in your grapples "mouth" to push what ever you are trying to push without getting so close to the hole. Call me chicken.

 

[dickfoster]

Roger that, James --- but in a hairy situation that needs max traction to not fall into hole, I may need the diff locked the whole time. I suppose as long as I am applying torque to back out, the diff will never unlock.

That depends on how much torque the wheels see. If load eases up on one tire then it will likely unlock if your foot isn't on the lock pedal holding it locked.

 

[DieselMonk]

I just read this thread. My 1526 diff lock works like any other tractor I have. I am not nearly weighing 250 pounds and my pedal goes down with ease. However if the tractor isn't moving, the rear wheels need to be ligned up correctly that the diff lock pin finds its place.

 

[Roger66]

I just read this thread. My 1526 diff lock works like any other tractor I have. I am not nearly weighing 250 pounds and my pedal goes down with ease. However if the tractor isn't moving, the rear wheels need to be ligned up correctly that the diff lock pin finds its place.

My pedal goes down with ease and hits the bump stop, however nothing engages. There does not appear to be any adjustment.

 

[DieselMonk]

That sux. That means there is something wrong with the pin then that locks the diff. My 1526, I put my foot on the diff pedal so the pedal goes down without a force, push on the front or back pedal (HST) to make my stuck tractor slip a rear wheel slowly, then all of the sudden the diff pedal goes a notch further down and both rear wheels are engaged and stays that way until I take my foot off the diff pedal and remove torque to the rear wheels. IMO either the linkage is bent, the pin inside is seized or broke off, something along that line. Did you try that in 2wd or 4wd? ON my T4.75 PowerStar, the Park pin fell out and went through the tranny. I made a thread on that if you want to read it.

 

[rokit]

I just bought my brand new Mahindra 1526 in December, and am approaching 50 hours on it quickly. I've used the diff lock quite a bit so far and it's incredibly easy to engage and works quite well - just the dead weight of my boot heel will get it engaged with no added muscle pressure.

So before I bought my tractor I did a lot of research and one thing the folks with experience kept repeating was, "Buy the dealer, not any particular brand."

I read what your dealer said in the OP...if my dealer said that I'd be raising **** at this point, 'cuz it sounds like you may have a bad one. It sounds like it's definitely not right and they just don't want to deal with it. It's potentially a time-consuming repair for them because it could involve cracking into the gearcase if the external linkage adjustment doesn't fix it.

 

[DavesTractor]

Your dealer is doing you a disservice with his erroneous information. It needs adjustment or lubrication.

Also be aware that if it is barely engaging, it rounds off the cogs on the diff lock. Sounds like yours isn't even engaging that much. When adjusted properly, these work just as described by several folks already. Stop the wheels from spinning entirely, try to engage, if cogs are not lined up, spin a wheel slowly and in less than 1/4 turn of a wheel, the diff lock pedal will drop a little more and you are engaged.

If you engage while the wheels are spinning fast, it is easy to damage the cogs as it rounds off the edges, then the diff lock will not want to stay engaged, even with increased foot pressure. So do be careful with that.

For those of you with older 3016/3616 and 1526, if the diff lock cog does get damaged, the tractor does not have to be split to fix it, but the right side axle housing does have to be removed. It's a few hours work, but nothing crazy.

 

[arrow]

Your dealer is doing you a disservice with his erroneous information. It needs adjustment or lubrication.

Also be aware that if it is barely engaging, it rounds off the cogs on the diff lock. Sounds like yours isn't even engaging that much. When adjusted properly, these work just as described by several folks already. Stop the wheels from spinning entirely, try to engage, if cogs are not lined up, spin a wheel slowly and in less than 1/4 turn of a wheel, the diff lock pedal will drop a little more and you are engaged.

If you engage while the wheels are spinning fast, it is easy to damage the cogs as it rounds off the edges, then the diff lock will not want to stay engaged, even with increased foot pressure. So do be careful with that.

For those of you with older 3016/3616 and 1526, if the diff lock cog does get damaged, the tractor does not have to be split to fix it, but the right side axle housing does have to be removed. It's a few hours work, but nothing crazy.

Good to know Dave. Thanks. I split my old JD 750 once. I told my wife to simply shoot me if I ever get the notion to partake in another split unless it has a banana in it.

 

[johnsonauto]

Sounds like your linkage needs adjustment and your dealer is giving you misinformation.