Tier IV Starting Procedure - mCRD engines

[Snowback]

Just curious what you all are doing on start up for optimal longevity and performance. The manual for my 2538 HST states to turn key to the left and then start once the light goes off. (It's an oil pressure light though, not the glow plug.) :confused3:

Since the manuals seemed a little rushed when this new machine came out back in 2015, I wanted to check with some of the newer buyers who may have refined manals. I'll give J5 a call as well to confirm.

On our prior Max 25 with Mitsu engine, turning the key to the left initiated the glow plug cycle, and when the light went out, then you started it.

Now, on the new machine, the glow plug light doesn't come on until after it starts and stays on for about 30 seconds to a minute. (When it was new and before the upgraded tune was installed, the glow plug light didn't stay on at all.) With the current tune, I can turn key to the left to cycle the pressure light, and then come over half way to the right to power up the glow plug, but it does not appear to have a timer on it. I usually just crank right away like the manual states.

The machine always cranks right up and purrs like a lion cub, but I don't want to be rushing the start cycle if I'm missing something on the sequence that is not covered in the manual. I have seen one or two references to not needing the glow plugs pre heated with these new engines, but I've just grown up waiting on glow plugs before cranking diesels and it feels a little strange. I've never tried starting it in anything under about 50 degrees either, so that may be part of why the ECU does not believe it needs the plugs pre heated perhaps.

Anyone else have a different process or procedure they have learned from their dealer? Thanks in advance.

 

[rokit]

My Mahindra is an IDI engine, and I'm not an expert...but every common-rail diesel I'm aware of is started pretty much like a gasser: turn the key to crank and it fires right up.

I also think it's pretty safe to say that you can't hurt these engines with some nuance in the startup procedure. They're pretty bulletproof in that regard.

 

[buickanddeere]

How about Installing a 12V test light into the glow plug wiring harness. It would be interesting whn they are energized and for how long.
Never did any harm to use a block heater in winter .

 

[Snowback]

My Mahindra is an IDI engine, and I'm not an expert...but every common-rail diesel I'm aware of is started pretty much like a gasser: turn the key to crank and it fires right up.

I also think it's pretty safe to say that you can't hurt these engines with some nuance in the startup procedure. They're pretty bulletproof in that regard.

Agreed. Perhaps the plugs come on after ignition to help keep initial emissions down to a minimum before DOC operating temperature is achieved in first minute or so...

How about Installing a 12V test light into the glow plug wiring harness. It would be interesting whn they are energized and for how long.
Never did any harm to use a block heater in winter .

That's a good idea. If I trust the light on the dash it appears to be a fixed period of a minute or less, but popping a tester in there would clarify things for sure.

Block heaters are great, but for the diesels we ran back up north in the 70's and 80's, we would just start them in late October and let them run all winter out on location at the oilfield camps. (Day and night...) Only down time was when oil was being changed in a warm shop and out of the 40 below weather. I recall a few times having to crawl under dad's Mack and Western Star with a tiger torch to warm up the blocks and oil pans. OSHA might not like a kid with a flame thrower working under a truck nowadays...

 

[buickanddeere]

Tempory Test light would verify how honest the factory dash light is.

 

[JerryK]

My Tier IV mCRD 2016 2555 starts real easy, even without the grid heater cycle... parked in a unheated area of my barn. I still turn the key on and let the grid heater time out, then start it. The computer runs the RPM up to about 11-1200 for a little bit, then quickly down to about 800. I move my 'throttle' lever and raise the RPM up to about 1250 RPM and let it warm up like that for about five minutes. Then take it outside and run for five minutes [+/-] while I am getting ready to blow snow. Then raise the RPM up just below 2000, drive the length of my driveway, crank her wide open, and start cleaning the road and mailbox areas. I started doing it this way because I was originally setting the dreaded MIL light by turning the key from OFF to START too quick, and other fumble finger lame brained processes. Anywhilst, that's how I start mine....

 

[bluefin650]

I blew my hydro oil cooler on my 2555 early this season. luckily they covered it under warranty. So now, I leave my FEL in float while my tractor is warming up. Helps circulate the hydro oil to warm it up.

 

[dickfoster]

I blew my hydro oil cooler on my 2555 early this season. luckily they covered it under warranty. So now, I leave my FEL in float while my tractor is warming up. Helps circulate the hydro oil to warm it up.

Not quite sure how leaving the bucket in float circulates oil. If so I'd like to know how. I thought putting it in float just removes all pressure from the lift cylinders and both ends of the cylinders are directed to the low pressure tank return leaving the bucket to float with weight and gravity alone holding it down.

 

[bluefin650]

I was under the impression from my dealer that fluid is always being pumped and when you put the FEL into float, it kinda acts like a by-pass and fluid is able to circulate/move.

 

[Buxus]

Far, far, far from an expert here, but might the float the dealer was referring to (that continuously circulates) be with regard to the float vs self canceling detent on the rear remote (as opposed to the position of the FEL which can "float" over the ground).