learning to use FEL

[nworbekim]

wow, they delivered my 3510 with the FEL installed... looks like a mini-monster tractor now *grin*...

it has a joystick control that i really like... i can't compare it to the other kind since i never had one before...

i took it out this afternoon and tried pushing some trees that had fallen into the edges of the field back into the woods... what a TRIP! i've a whole LOT of learning to do...

any suggestions? i just couldn't get it right today... but i'm sure i'll get there... but some of you might have some suggestions as to how i can get it right sooner...

seeya!

[Keith_B]

The best way to get a feel for the FEL is to use it, a lot.

[JerryG]

Go slow until you learn. You will learn it pretty quick. At first new owners sometimes try to take to large of scoops and scoop to far down in the pile. As I said, go slow and try different things. You will learn what will work and what will not. Anything else, just let us know and I am sure someone can give tips for your specific operation.
BTW. Welcome to TBN and congratulations on your new tractor. I have looked at that model and they are nice tractors.

[426DMB]

I concur with JerryG, take your time. At 53 hours on my Mahindra I'm hardly expert, but I'm much more adept than when I first got the thing. One nugget I will pass along is when in tight spaces remember how far that thing is out in front of you. At about 2 hours I was working close to the house and swung in close, well too close actually, and ripped a gutter downspout off before I could even think about it! With patience and caution you'll definitely get a feel for how to operate your loader. Be mindful of its limits, particularly the effects of a heavy load in the bucket. Ballast or loaded tires might be advisable if you don't have them already. I got a feel for the limits of my loader with some slow cautious trial and error play. Mostly, think safety. But it's not brain surgery, you can do it! 426DMB.

[daTeacha]

What kind of trees, as in how big, branches or rooted trees? The loader is not a dozer, although it can work like one in some instances. Watch the leverages when working with long items. Lifting a long log can tip you sideways pretty quickly.

Keep your bucket as low as possible, move slow, watch all around, not just the front of the bucket area. Trees can be especially tricky since they could slip out of the bucket, maybe snap back and knock you off the seat while scratching up that pretty red paint job.

[CT_Tree_Guy]

Howdy -

Congratulations on your new tractor. You'll get the hang of using the loader very quickly I'm sure; it's a lot like learning a new video game (except in a video game, when you get killed, you just start the game over). [img]/forums/images/graemlins/tongue.gif[/img]

I didn't mean that to sound quite so morbid - but loaders can get you into trouble pretty quickly. Just go very easy in the beginning as others have said; then once you're more comfortable with it, just go easy. [img]/forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif[/img]

Here's a very good thread that has lots of good tips in it for operating a tractor with loader: Front loaders dangerous

For now, just keep it "low and slow", and be constantly ready to lower the loader if you start to get into trouble; and be extra careful when going down slopes when you're light in the rear - it took me a little while to get it into my head that tractors don't have front brakes! [img]/forums/images/graemlins/tongue.gif[/img]

Good luck, John

PS Please be sure to buckle up

[skipmarcy]

Don't know if your loader has the rod-in-tube type bucket gauge like my older 4110, but if it does the first thing I would do is to mark the gauge. Get your tractor on perfectly level ground with the proper air in all the tires and set your bucket perfectly level with the joystick - visually confirm the bucket is level. I took a 3-corner file and cut a good groove all the way around where the rod met the top of the tube and then used an artist's paint brush and painted the groove with some yellow paint. Let it dry good before use. Makes it alot easier to use the bucket quicker - by the time the paint wears off, you probably won't need it anymore. Like everyone else here has said - it definitely takes alot of practice and go slow.

[LBrown59]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( The best way to get a feel for the FEL is to use it, a lot. )</font>

I think 38 years on the old Bolens 850 with the front dirt blade helped me.

[DiskDoctr]

Neworbekim,

A little late, but a helpful note here.

On 2WD tractors, would lower bucket and lift front wheels off ground for more down pressure. Bucket at abou 30 degrees down angle, frame of tractor up to about 20-30 degrees as needed.

Puts maximum pressure on edge of bucket for cutting/digging and maximum weight on rear wheels for traction (Approx angles, not calculated [img]/forums/images/graemlins/smirk.gif[/img] )

BUT, on a 4WD model, don't lift the front wheels off the ground, just before they lift, use lower gear so no clutch slipping, just slow wheel spin if needed, and when digging, roll the bucket a little down for dig, a little up for putting pressure on the front tire for more 4WD traction.

This is the opposite of 2WD, as a roll up would take some pressure off the rear wheels and put it on the front.

Play with it some and you'll see what I mean.

BTW, I usually find a good medium-high range gear for the job. For instance, I use Medium-1 for loading, then change the range to High-1 to move to dump. Saves some gear shifting and prevents gray hair moving from dig to drop!

Good luck.

-DiskDoctr

[DiskDoctr]

Neworbekim,

A little late, but a helpful note here.

On 2WD tractors, would lower bucket and lift front wheels off ground for more down pressure. Bucket at abou 30 degrees down angle, frame of tractor up to about 20-30 degrees as needed.

Puts maximum pressure on edge of bucket for cutting/digging and maximum weight on rear wheels for traction (Approx angles, not calculated [img]/forums/images/graemlins/smirk.gif[/img] )

BUT, on a 4WD model, don't lift the front wheels off the ground, just before they lift, use lower gear so no clutch slipping, just slow wheel spin if needed, and when digging, roll the bucket a little down for dig, a little up for putting pressure on the front tire for more 4WD traction.

This is the opposite of 2WD, as a roll up would take some pressure off the rear wheels and put it on the front.

Play with it some and you'll see what I mean.

BTW, I usually find a good medium-high range gear for the job. For instance, I use Medium-1 for loading, then change the range to High-1 to move to dump. Saves some gear shifting and prevents gray hair moving from dig to drop!

Good luck.

-DiskDoctr