Need Some FEL Training

[Grizzman]

The Mahindra 4110 is my first tractor. It has performed great and look forward to more seat time. I have used the FEL to pull fence post, and small jobs but I feel I am not using it to its full potential. I lack the experience of using a FEL. So I wanted to get some feedback or instruction from you veterans out there. When I dig dirt up in the buck I get very little [img]/forums/images/graemlins/mad.gif[/img]. What jobs do you use your loader for and what are your techniques. Thanks for the help.

[KENB]

I had the same problem. All I can say is it takes practice. I thought that there was something wrong with my 4110, because I couldn't pick up any dirt in the bucket either when I first brought the tractor home. Then my neighbor down the road (who is about 30 years older than me) came by and tried it out. He worked that 4110 bucket like a pro, and proved that there was nothing wrong with the tractor. I was embarrassed! It is all about practice, and find a friend to give you some pointers while you are on the seat.

[Varmintmist]

toothbar


You need one if you are going to dig with the loader. You need something to pop the ground apart.

That and practice.

[daTeacha]

I can dig a pretty decent hole with my little Kubota by putting about 20 degrees of down angle on the bucket and almost lifting the front wheels off with down pressure then driving forward. Once the thing bites in, you back off the angle a little and keep driving forwards. Practice somewhere where you don't care if you make a mess of things. [img]/forums/images/graemlins/smirk.gif[/img]

[dbelisle]

A second on the tooth bar.

The tooth bar will make a big difference. I take mine off
in the winter . It comes off with two bolts.

Dave in NH

[DiskDoctr]

Another option.

First, I second the "rip it before you dig it" advice.

A tooth bar is an okay option, but for me isn't the best solution. Although it would work fine (just like my old Ford), but I move dirt and a lot of gravel.

For gravel I like to get right up close to my target, scoop with a positive, clean edge, and backdrag with the bucket.

I suppose you could get an easy-on, easy-off toothbar or work something out, especially if you love the toothbar as many folks do. It's a preference thing.

Instead, I use a box blade on the 3pt hitch with six ripper bars and a top-tilt hydraulic cylinder to change the angle. Mine is from Midwest, and after some mods (WELDED points on rippers as the pressed on version lasted less than a day, added an extra hole on each ripper to store them on the box, just above blade height, and cut out some sheet metal around the top link so the quickhitch fit easily) it works great!

I can either lower the rippers if I am tearing up deep or rocky ground (great for leveling- tear, then spread), or if just trying to scalp up to 4 inches on a pass, I lift the top tilt cylinder all the way, angling the box blade around 20degrees forward pitch. On my blade that is just enough to dig the teetch about 2 inches and the blade does the rest.

Incidently, extending (lowering) the top tilt cylinder angles it the other direction for more spread and less dig, with teeth not touching the surface.

Best of all, lets you rip with the rear, scoop with the FEL for moving dirt, and spread and level for a REALLY nice job.

Many times it looks like it was hand raked, except for some tractor tire marks [img]/forums/images/graemlins/smirk.gif[/img]

By far, next to a FEL, I would recommend a box blade. That combination alone has put in more driveways, level areas, yard redesigns, etc in less time with better results than anything I've used over the past 20+ years.

If you are constantly digging into a bank or moving piles of packed material, a toothbar can save you a bunch of time, but if not, check out the bb option.

Just my opinion, hope it helps!

-DiskDoctr

[DiskDoctr]

Another option.

First, I second the "rip it before you dig it" advice.

A tooth bar is an okay option, but for me isn't the best solution. Although it would work fine (just like my old Ford), but I move dirt and a lot of gravel.

For gravel I like to get right up close to my target, scoop with a positive, clean edge, and backdrag with the bucket.

I suppose you could get an easy-on, easy-off toothbar or work something out, especially if you love the toothbar as many folks do. It's a preference thing.

Instead, I use a box blade on the 3pt hitch with six ripper bars and a top-tilt hydraulic cylinder to change the angle. Mine is from Midwest, and after some mods (WELDED points on rippers as the pressed on version lasted less than a day, added an extra hole on each ripper to store them on the box, just above blade height, and cut out some sheet metal around the top link so the quickhitch fit easily) it works great!

I can either lower the rippers if I am tearing up deep or rocky ground (great for leveling- tear, then spread), or if just trying to scalp up to 4 inches on a pass, I lift the top tilt cylinder all the way, angling the box blade around 20degrees forward pitch. On my blade that is just enough to dig the teetch about 2 inches and the blade does the rest.

Incidently, extending (lowering) the top tilt cylinder angles it the other direction for more spread and less dig, with teeth not touching the surface.

Best of all, lets you rip with the rear, scoop with the FEL for moving dirt, and spread and level for a REALLY nice job.

Many times it looks like it was hand raked, except for some tractor tire marks [img]/forums/images/graemlins/smirk.gif[/img]

By far, next to a FEL, I would recommend a box blade. That combination alone has put in more driveways, level areas, yard redesigns, etc in less time with better results than anything I've used over the past 20+ years.

If you are constantly digging into a bank or moving piles of packed material, a toothbar can save you a bunch of time, but if not, check out the bb option.

Just my opinion, hope it helps!

-DiskDoctr