Log skidding

[MikeBeers]

Hey everyone,

I see that many of you use your tractors for skidding logs. I have a 2310 that I would like to use to do just that. Can anyone give me a quick lesson on how this is done, what type of set up is needed for the 3pt hitch, etc.

Thanks,
Mike

 

[BamaRob]

Mike,

There are several different ways to skid logs with your tractor. The least expensive is to just use a chain wrapped a couple of times around the butt end of the log and attach to a clevis on your drawbar. This is fairly safe since the log is attached below your axle. The problem with this is, since the butt end off the log isn't lifted, it tends to plow into the ground. If it doesn't stall the tractor, it'll plow up the ground.

The next method would be to attach the clevis to a drawbar on the 3ph. The drawbar looks something like this:

Then, you drop your 3ph down on the log, attach the chain to the clevis on the drawbar. This allows you to lift the log with the 3ph. Now you can skid the log without plowing up the ground so much. The is the method that I currently use. The downside to this method is that you're now attaching the load above the rear axle. If you were going along and the log caught on something, your frontend can come up rather quickly (and flip you backward if you aren't careful and ready on the clutch). I keep my speed very slow and watch for stumps/rocks/roots that the log may hang on.

The next method would be to use a logging tong, such as:

This eliminates the need to wrap the chain around the butt end of the log (saving lots of time and manual labor). You still have the issue of the load being attached above the rear axle and the dangers this incurs.

Another method would be to use a logging arch (such as this one from NovaJack. )

I may eventually go this route. Either buy one or have one built. This solves the problem of the butt of the log digging in since it lifts it clear of the ground. It also eliminates the danger associated with having the load attahced above your axle since it attaches to your drawbar under the axle. I don't skid enough logs to justify the cost of a Farmi winch (see below), but don't like the dangers of attaching to my 3ph. To me, the logging arch seems like the perfect compromise. It's much cheaper than the winch (especially if it's a homemade job), but very effective.

Finally, and most expensively, you can get something like a Farmi winch that will take much of the danger out of the job, plus allow you to skid more than one log at a time. Here's what the Farmi looks like:

Good luck and be careful,

BR

 

[jpm]

mike robs post gave you great info and the winch is the best way because all of the rest you have to get your tracktor almost right to the log.The winch you have 100+ feet of cable to use plus you can pull yourself out of jams /forums/images/graemlins/crazy.gif

 

[Slacker]

Here is what I use:

Northern tool sells all you need. Pretty slick for small stuff, just try to keep it on level ground and keep your COG low.
I've near tipped it a few times. Having a bucket on the front kept low helps. Just stay in low range and watch for "gotchas!"

 

[MajMac392]

Bama gave you some good info. I use the drawbar with a hook on it, I think I got the hook from Northern Tool. If you are only doing an occasional skid it is probably the cheepest method. I've never had a problem with tipping but I did bend the drawbar once when the big maple I was pulling caught a piece of ground. /forums/images/graemlins/crazy.gif I've also driven up to some logs, hooked the log onto the loader and backed it out to where I wanted it.

 

[daTeacha]

All good ideas and methods. If you really want to go the winch route, you can get a pretty economical 12V winch designed for emergency use with cars and such. Mine is mounted on a piece of channel steel and has a trailer hitch fitting on the end. I mount a ball on the drawbar and have 50' of 3/8" cable at my disposal.

Look for SuperWinch in auto parts places. I think mine was about $50.

Normally, I just use the chain method, but I don't drag many big sawlogs. Mine are usually less than 18" diameter, and are mostly cut up for firewood. I hire horse teams for the serious stuff. They use an arch and are much easier on the woods. Besides, it's really fun to watch the big Belgians working hard for their Amish handlers.

 

[Highbeam]

Excellent thread that would do all tractor owners some good. I fix the dedicated dragging chain to the drawbar and then go up over a part of a boxblade and then once around the log. Then back up to the log using the bob blade as needed to lift the butt end enough to get a chain around it and then pull it to the stack. It drags and plows some and occasionally I get stuck that way, then I back up and push the log with the boxblade. When I get to the stack I unhook and loop the chain onto the boxblade and leave the drawbar end in place.

I can't imagine log dragging/moving without a way to push the log from the rear of the tractor. Also, it is never just one log but a dozen or so which means you will need a convenient way to stow the chain on the tractor between drags. Backing over the chain can wrap it around your axles and cause damage.

Boxblade, drawbar, and 3/8" chain for me.

 

[MajMac392]

Highbeam is right this was an excellent thread in Log Skidding 101. The only other thing that becomes very obvious is when I'm doing this I often get off the tractor to hook up the log/tree have to get back up, maybe reposition the tractor more than once. Needless to say if you are doing this alone which I am, you're up, then down, you're up, then down, you're up, then down, you're up, then down.....well you get the idea. /forums/images/graemlins/tongue.gif

 

[tractornewby]

I've been doing a lot of dead tree clearing lately with my Mahindra 4500. I use a 20' X 3/8" GR70 chain that I purchased from Tractor Supply Company for about $30. The hooks on both ends were included with this transportation tie-down chain that is rated for over 6,500 pounds. The 20' chain is attached to my draw bar and the length of chain allows me to park my tractor and then crawl under other tree branches to get to the dead tree I want to remove. I attach the end of chain to the tree I want to remove and drag it out.

Here's the setup from the rear of my tractor:

I had a welder add 3 chain hooks and chain storage guides to the back of my bucket. I can use the FEL to lift trees that are stuck among other trees and then back out of the tree jungle I'm working in.

Here's a typical dead tree I'm removing from my property. If you look closely, you can see the dead tree laying on the ground among the other trees:

When hauling the logs, I drag them across the ground. I've made a path, but it's not major:

And finally, here's the burn pile I'm making with the trees I'm removing. The pile is approximately 20'X10'X8'high right now. You can see the green cedar trees in the pile. Those were obviously alive recently. I wrapped my chain around the base of the cedar trees and dragged the trees out of the ground with my 4500. These cedars are about 4-8" in diameter at the base. My 4500 2WD spun the rear tires a bit, but the cedars quickly gave way and pulled out of the ground completely, or they broke off at ground level:

When wrapping a chain around a log or tree, be sure to make a "slip-knot" with the chain around the log/tree. In other words, don't wrap the chain around the log/tree and then attach the hook to the chain going back to the tractor. That will allow the log/tree to slip out of the loop you created. Instead, you want a loop on the end of the chain that will tighten-up as you pull the log/tree with the tractor. If that doesn't make sense, let me know and I'll post a picture of how to wrap a chain around a log/tree. I used to haul many logs about 25 years ago while working on the Texas A&M, Aggie Bonfire. You don't want to have to rechain logs because they slipped through the chain while being dragged.

Regards,

TractorNewby

 

[wallace]

Mike How about something like this, of coarse you will ne rear remotes.
The price is around $1,500-1,700