What size/type Massey for square hay baler?

[MrSteve]

Sooner or later we are going to move to much bigger piece of land of around 150+ ac (farther north then we thought, back home to Western NY) and start growing our own hay for our horses and hope to sale hay as well.

In any case, what is the right model and HP rating to do this job and to make it a bit easier on me to do my figures, what would be a average cost of this tractor, new cost please?

 

[gf5205]

For a 14"x18" square baler with capacity similar to a JD 328 I'd want a utility tractor with at least 45 pto hp. I'm familiar with JD and the MSRP on a 5203 would be about 16k.

 

[sweeter]

Sooner or later we are going to move to much bigger piece of land of around 150+ ac (farther north then we thought, back home to Western NY) and start growing our own hay for our horses and hope to sale hay as well.

In any case, what is the right model and HP rating to do this job and to make it a bit easier on me to do my figures, what would be a average cost of this tractor, new cost please?

MrSteve,

A lot of that is going to depend on what size bales you are going to be doing. Will these be the small squares or the massive squares? We bale rounds and the big squares we have a claas for the large squares minimum 65 pto and our round baler is 55 pto min. I believe some of the smaller square balers can run as low as 35 pto but I'm not 100 percent sure. If you are going to be doing any of the larger hay bales you are going to need a tractor that can handle some serious front end weight. We bale a few hundred acres so if you have a certain question regarding that let me know.

G Sweet

 

[MrSteve]

Thanks for the replies...

We are going to do "small", from 60 to 70lbs in weight. I think the round about measurements are 32x18x14.

Thanks sweeter... What ever you can do for me, start typing All the info I can get I will take. What I really need is a cost of what we need, as in, tractor, baler, rake and what ever is left. We have the 1533 that I would have to assume can handle everything else but the baler, like raking,pulling the load trailer and so on... BUT let me know.

About the tractor... I don't want a "This tractor can just handle it", I would like a few (not allot) HP left over.

Thanks for any help.

EDIT... We can talk about things needed for planting also if you wish, all the way from turn up the land to spreading seed.

 

[sweeter]

Thanks for the replies...

We are going to do "small", from 60 to 70lbs in weight. I think the round about measurements are 32x18x14.

Thanks sweeter... What ever you can do for me, start typing All the info I can get I will take. What I really need is a cost of what we need, as in, tractor, baler, rake and what ever is left. We have the 1533 that I would have to assume can handle everything else but the baler, like raking,pulling the load trailer and so on... BUT let me know.

About the tractor... I don't want a "This tractor can just handle it", I would like a few (not allot) HP left over.

Thanks for any help.




Here is some basic info,

Normally, we plant hay in a rotation with other crops such as grain. In this situation, we plant the hay seed into a nurse crop of winter wheat or spring oats. In an organic situation, this nurse crop helps eliminate weed pressure on the slowly germinating hay.

You can direct seed the hay seed in the spring, however managing the weeds that germinate and grow faster than the hay will be challenging. Hay direct seeded without a nurse crop usually does better if planted in mid-August, since most of the weeds that germinate then will be annuals that, at least for us in the Northeast, die with the first hard frost while the hay grows on.

In order to sow the seed, you could use a grain drill. This is the same type of planter you would use to plant small grains like wheat, oats, rye, or barley, only with a “grass box” attachment that will handle the very small seeds that make up most hay crops. Using a grain drill with a set of packer wheels in the rear will help with establishment.

You can also broadcast the seed with any of the many broadcast seeders available; however you should then run over the seeded area with a packer harrow or roller to get the seed in good contact with the soil. On our farm, we broadcast the hay seed into winter wheat in late winter or early spring and let the freezing and thawing action of the soil pull the seed into the ground.

Hope this helps. If you need more information, let me know. And be sure to write back and let me know what you eventually do and how it turns out.

I suggest you contact your local county extension agent or check in a copy of your state’s agronomy guide to see what they recommend for conventional growers. The timing and dates for planting will be the same for organic or conventional. This will at least be a starting point for you to compare to my recommendations.

As far as prices for the equipment, I have seen used packages that include baler, rake, mower from 4000-12000 or new from 3-4000 per piece. I cant tell you the price of a small square baler b/c I dont own one.

Hopefully that helps.

Sweet

 

[MrSteve]

Thanks for the info... The info you give me will work out just fine. We are not doing anything until we move back up to Western NY and you being in Ohio is pretty much the same type of weather in my book.

 

[sweeter]

No problem..if you have any more just let me know.


Sweet

 

[MrSteve]

Oh come on guys, no one else? What everyone here only own little HP machines, lol.

Oh thanks again Sweeter.

 

[Mike120]

I'm not sure how y'all do hay up north, but down here with 150+ acres I'd want at least 85 to 100 hp. That gives you the weight for the bailer, the hydralics for a twin rake, and enough tractor to handle a good sized MoCo. Sure you can do it with the little bitty tractors but it will become your full time job and you'll wear the toy out in one season.

 

[Robert_in_NY]

There is really no good answer until you find a baler. You can get by with a 35 pto horse tractor if you find an old baler or a small newer baler but you would just barely be squeaking by. If you buy a 575 New Holland you will want a 75 pto horse tractor to handle the baler comfortable.

What type of cutter do you want? If you go with a simple sickle mower your MF will handle it, same with a simple disc mower sized for your tractor. If you go with a small haybine you will want a 35 pto horse tractor. If you go with a 9' discbine you will want a 75 pto horse tractor minimum.

What type of rake? A bar rake does not require much hp at all. Same with a wheel rake. A rotary takes more hp but a single rotor rake would be suitable behind a 35 pto horse tractor. If you go with a larger double rotor setup you will want 45 pto minimum.

In our area a tedder is a good investment. You can save money by going with a tedder/rake combo but you are limited to a two basket setup. Used tedders are easy to find ranging from 2 baskets on up to 6 baskets are the most common. You can find larger also.

Pulling wagons is easy, just hook them to your truck and go. If you want to use a tractor you will want at least a 45pto hp tractor minimum if you are on any type of a hill. A loaded wagon will push a 35 horse tractor all over on a hill. On flat ground you will be fine if you use your head and keep slow.

Prices are all dependent on what type of operation you want to run. I paid $7,500 for my 575 with thrower. I then spent $10k on 5 kicker wagons (4 used, one new rack on a used gear). $9k for my discbine. $2500 for a New Holland 256 bar rake. $1700 for a 4 basket Vicon tedder. $25k for a New Holland TN 65 (47 pto hp). $16k for a Ford 1920 (30 pto hp roughly). $15k for a Ford 7710-II (books at 87 pto hp but is actually putting out over 120). Ford 640 was $2500.

The TN was the original work horse for my operation but it was too small. The 1920 is a great raking/tedding tractor and the Ford 640 fills in on which ever implement is open. Usually one is on the rake and the other is on the tedder depending on what fields I am in. The 7710 was added to take over the discbine/baling duty and now the TN fills in when needed.

I can help answer your tillage/planting questions later but ideally you would hire that out as once your plant your fields you shouldn't have to worry about them for a while.