Older Massey Ferguson question.

[oz in SC]

Shopping for a good old tractor that will get our land cleared,keep the driveway up and generally make our future home better.

Sat on an old MF-135 and noticed the clutch pedal was weird,you basically had to push down instead of in.

Are all older MF's like this?
Our budget is limited to around $7500 and for that we want/desire a loader,cutter,scrape blade and auger if possible.

Is an older MF a good choice for our situation?
Also looking at older Fords(3000,4000 series)

Land is hilly but not steep and is pure red NC clay.

Thanks.

 

[Farmwithjunk]

Shopping for a good old tractor that will get our land cleared,keep the driveway up and generally make our future home better.

Sat on an old MF-135 and noticed the clutch pedal was weird,you basically had to push down instead of in.

Are all older MF's like this?
Our budget is limited to around $7500 and for that we want/desire a loader,cutter,scrape blade and auger if possible.

Is an older MF a good choice for our situation?
Also looking at older Fords(3000,4000 series)

Land is hilly but not steep and is pure red NC clay.

Thanks.

The next series after the 100's (200's) went to a more conventional clutch/brake pedal arraingment. You get used to them real quick. After owning my 150 for a while, I got to where I prefer the "down" pedals over the "forward" types. And they do lessen the likelyhood of the operator "riding" the clutch.

The 100 series Massey Fergusons are tough, dependable, economical tractors, provided you get one in decent condition. I've owned several 100 series Masseys and several 1000 series Fords over the years. They're just about an even match, with one MAJOR exception. NO ONE ever built a more reliable, economic engine than the Perkins diesels used in those Masseys. I owned a 3000 Ford diesel and a 3000 Ford gasser, along with a MF150 diesel for much of the time I was still farming. As an example, when plowing, the 150 would work circles around the 3000,s and do so on quite a bit less fuel. (150's are ALMOST the same tractor as a 135, just a different front axle/steering/fuel tank/sheet metal/radiator)

 

[oz in SC]

Thanks for the reply and you have a point about the clutch regarding riding it.

Are the 100 series MF's suitable for loader work do you think?

I like that MF used the Perkins engine,it was a reliable engine(used to work with yachts overseas,Perkins were popular back then)

 

[Toni I]

Hi from south africa . i also have a 135 that has a duel clutch and
never had a problem .Do you think the internal hydrolic pump gives
enough volume for a loader? Regards Ton

 

[Farmwithjunk]

Thanks for the reply and you have a point about the clutch regarding riding it.

Are the 100 series MF's suitable for loader work do you think?

I like that MF used the Perkins engine,it was a reliable engine(used to work with yachts overseas,Perkins were popular back then)

The front axle on the 135 is marginal for heavy loader work. OK, but marginal. Larger models, ie 150, 165, 175, and 180 are well suited in that regard. The internal pumps are a bit on the smallish side regarding flow rates, by todays standards. Pressure is adaquate, but volume of flow is 4.6gpm. That would give you slower cycle speeds. So long as high production isn't a neccesity, they'll do OK. Fords of the same vintage have approximately the same flow rate/loader cycle speeds. (I had a loader on my Ford 3000 gasser for near 30 years. Slow, but so am I....)

 

[oz in SC]

Well slow is better to us,less danger of breaking something...or ourselves.

So I should look for something above a 135 if heavy loader work is anticipated,good to know.

Thanks a lot.

 

[oz in SC]

Interestingly enough we found a MF 150 for sale very close to our place in NC.

It is owned by a distant(and elderly-82 years old) relative of the guy who built our barn....A VERY agile man as well,climbing off and on several tractors while we were there.

Anyway,it is a MF 150,diesel,3 speed,power steering,has differential lock I remember him specifically mentioning it.

It had been sitting for a while under a shed and started right up although it smoked a little,cleared up after I took it down the road.

It seemed to be all there but a little rough,headlights broken,gauges not working(or VERY jumpy),tach not working but it ran and was for sale for $4000 or so.

He would throw in a scrape blade but didn't have a bush hog and could work out having it delivered to our place.

We are going back up this coming weekend so if anyone has any thoughts on what I should specifically look for I would appreciate it.

Also is this a good price???

 

[Farmwithjunk]

Interestingly enough we found a MF 150 for sale very close to our place in NC.

It is owned by a distant(and elderly-82 years old) relative of the guy who built our barn....A VERY agile man as well,climbing off and on several tractors while we were there.

Anyway,it is a MF 150,diesel,3 speed,power steering,has differential lock I remember him specifically mentioning it.

It had been sitting for a while under a shed and started right up although it smoked a little,cleared up after I took it down the road.

It seemed to be all there but a little rough,headlights broken,gauges not working(or VERY jumpy),tach not working but it ran and was for sale for $4000 or so.

He would throw in a scrape blade but didn't have a bush hog and could work out having it delivered to our place.

We are going back up this coming weekend so if anyone has any thoughts on what I should specifically look for I would appreciate it.

Also is this a good price???

Gauges can be replaced without too much shock to the wallet. Tach is cable driven on the Perkins models, and that cable would be the first place I'd check when trying to make the tach work again. Headlights are "generic" enough to be cheap. So long as all the major mechanical components work, you aren't too far from a good tractor there.

Check the under side of the bellhousing for a couple small "weep holes". (Should see ends of cotter pins sticking through) If you see a great deal of oil around either, there may be issues. Rear gasket on oil pan tends to leak, resulting in oil @ weep holes. Also, tranny oil could indicate a front seal failing/failed. If no excessive oil, no issues. Beyond that, check the "normal" old tractor stuff.....3-point lift, clutch, pto, power steering, charging system, ect....

150's make splendid loader tractors. Heavier front end than the 135, yet still with a relatively compact size. In it's day, the MF150 diesel was the most fuel efficient tractor tested at Univ. of Nebraska.

 

[oz in SC]

Thanks for the info.

I figured gauges are easy enough to repair,the sending units oftentimes go bad and no-one cares enough to replace them.

Are headlights generic auto types?

One thing,the clutch seemed to be much easier than the other MF I sat on,of course the other one was sitting in a field out in the weather.
How hard should the clutch be to push in,like a regular truck?

The PTO engaged but couldn't put anything on it to make sure it worked.

3 point lift worked,went up and down easy enough although I am unsure what the draft is supposed to do,didn't seem to do much.

Power steering was light and the tractor didn't seem to be too loose driving down the road.

Started right up so I assume the charging system works well,the man didn't know we were coming by.

Brakes seemed good,stopped the tractor going down the road so I guess that is good enough.

It does have the locking differential I noticed.

It is a little rough in places,the fuel filler panel is held on with a large nut welded to a bolt going in,headlights broken,missing toplink,ammo can welded on rear fender for toolbox...but still it runs,is big enough for our needs and can be delivered....

 

[jdcjac]

OK.. Had a bad Mother's day. I have a 1968 150, great tractor... anyway, it finally died on me, I figure I threw a rod, and cracked the engine block. I have a huge hole on the left side of the engine as you sit in the seat.

I know I can get a new block for around $600 and overhaul kits for around $400, but the machining is going to be a crazy price. I really do not want to let her die, so is there any place I can buy a used Engine?

It is a gas and the engine number is 152UA5027A

Thanks,