Thanks for the response kenstrac.
I read about the cotter pins on another an old archive (Big Dean's, I think I found it lurking here). I did not see any oil under the tractor, so I don't think it is leaking, but will check the cotter pins.
As far as the multi power, I thought all of these models had it, but will check. If you have any details on that, (specifically what to check for) it would be appreciated.
As far as the carb icing up, I guess that's why there is an advantage to the diesel models.
Here is what Big Dean's site says which I post here:
Thing to check when buying a MF tractor
On the bell housing there is a weep hole on the bottom it should have a cotter pin head sticking down twist it around Check there for leaks. It Is all right if it is a little damp around it but should not have a steady drip of oil. If the pin head is not there stick something up in the hole and move it around to make sure it is not plug people will plug that hole to hide transmission leaks. It can get very expensive to repair those leaks. After it gets warmed up let it idle a couple of minutes then run it up about 1500
rpm there should not be any blue smoke come out the exhaust. Put something on the three point the heavier the better, raise up and shut off the engine it probably will seep down. That is normal but it shouldn't fall steady. Try to have the hydraulic oil hot when you do this test. On the MF50 & MF65 also the 150 through 180. Behind the grill is the power steering cylinder if it hasn't been cleaned up it will have oil and dirt there. Look for any clean spots they are cause by leaks there should not be any oil that you can see there. Shake the rear wheels side ways to see if the axle are tight and check there for any signs of a leak right behind the wheels. With live power the clutch should stop the tractor half way down with the
PTO still turning. Then the
PTO should stop when you push the clutch all the way down. With the independent
Pto it is best to get the transmission oil close to operating temperature. With something hooked to the
PTO engage the
PTO. It should start to turn immediately. If it hesitates that is a good sign the clutches or the seals are bad. I hope this helps you find any problems before you by the tractor. Pull the hydraulic dipstick if the oil is white or light gray this means the oil has water in it. Check the normal things like any coolant leaks or any major oil leaks & be sure to check the oil & coolant levels. if the brake have a good pedal but still not stop the tractor except to spend any where from $200 to $600 to get brakes If you are going to do the work. You can probably add another $400 to 600 if you have it done at a shop. This is how I would check one if I were buying it.
Quote:
Originally Posted by kenstrac  Does it have multipower are the rims in good shape I have found that the Z145 engine to be thirsty when you run it under 3/4-full load I have had the carb ice up when running it hard in the cold weather.
BTW check the bottom of the bell housing for a cotter pin sticking out and spin it around to see if oil comes out. |
Price for 1965 MF 150 Gas w/ implements 
Linear Mode
