Rubber cutting edge for bucket. Snow plow.

[Ooklaa]

So im looking for a hard rubber edge that will fit on our 48 inch bucket for snow removal. Obviously i dont want to ruin my driveway.


Found this http://www.ratchetrake.com/images/snow_edge_info_revised0915.pdf

Not looking to buy a plow or a snow thrower now. Maybe some years later.

Anything else out to look at?

 

[s219]

I prefer putting a slotted pipe over the edge of rear blades for snow removal, and it will also work for a front bucket's edge.

For a front bucket, depending on the type of drive, you might get better results using the heel of the bucket on the driveway to keep the front cutting edge off the driveway. Regardless, a front bucket isn't great for snow removal in my experience. Get a cheap lightweight rear blade, put a pipe or horse stall mat edge on it, and it works a zillion times better. For a little tractor like your Massey, you can get a basic rear blade for under $300.

 

[Ooklaa]

I prefer putting a slotted pipe over the edge of rear blades for snow removal, and it will also work for a front bucket's edge.

For a front bucket, depending on the type of drive, you might get better results using the heel of the bucket on the driveway to keep the front cutting edge off the driveway. Regardless, a front bucket isn't great for snow removal in my experience. Get a cheap lightweight rear blade, put a pipe or horse stall mat edge on it, and it works a zillion times better. For a little tractor like your Massey, you can get a basic rear blade for under $300.

rear blades also good for other purposes around the house, but for snow with the blade on the back and driving forward how do you drive threw thick snow makes no sense to me, or if i drive backwards using the rear blade pushing the snow, which to me make no sense either. i got a decent sized driveway so def not gonna keep my back turned all the time.

but i do see the rear blade being more of a multi npurpose item for 300 bucks, same price as the attachemnt i have posted up top and that only does one thing.

 

[AxleHub]

rear blades also good for other purposes around the house, but for snow with the blade on the back and driving forward how do you drive threw thick snow makes no sense to me, or if i drive backwards using the rear blade pushing the snow, which to me make no sense either. i got a decent sized driveway so def not gonna keep my back turned all the time.

but i do see the rear blade being more of a multi purpose item for 300 bucks, same price as the attachemnt i have posted up top and that only does one thing.

I just last week ordered a snow edge . . I should have it before Thanksgiving. But I chose the snowedge product because it not only lets you "forward" plow with your bucket . . But it also lets you "back drag" with it. And back dragging means you can get up close in tighter spaces and pull snow or slush away from a building or edge.

Lastly it allows the user to use the fel bucket as a bucket yet . . For moving snow up and away or up and over from a plowed up area.

 

[AxleHub]

I prefer putting a slotted pipe over the edge of rear blades for snow removal, and it will also work for a front bucket's edge.

For a front bucket, depending on the type of drive, you might get better results using the heel of the bucket on the driveway to keep the front cutting edge off the driveway. Regardless, a front bucket isn't great for snow removal in my experience.

S219, I'm curious about your idea of a slotted pipe over the front bucket edge.

1. What kind of pipe are you referring to . . Pvc pipe or black plastic irrigation pipe or conduit or ????

2. How would you hold it on the blade edge? Or are you talking about a big enough diameter pipe (like 2.5 or 3 inch diameter pipe) that could slip/slide over the bucket edge entirely and then is self holding?

In my use a protected bucket edge will be for slush and 1 or 2 inch snows or for big drifts. We get quite a few 6 to 12 inch snows here and I have a snowblower on a zero turn garden tractor that is for the deeper needs. I love concrete sidewalks and driveways vs. gravel or blacktop or pavers etc. . but having a bunch of it will be easier this year with the new scut tractor

 

[Ooklaa]

I just last week ordered a snow edge . . I should have it before Thanksgiving. But I chose the snowedge product because it not only lets you "forward" plow with your bucket . . But it also lets you "back drag" with it. And back dragging means you can get up close in tighter spaces and pull snow or slush away from a building or edge.

Lastly it allows the user to use the fel bucket as a bucket yet . . For moving snow up and away or up and over from a plowed up area.

Axle you bought the product I have listed above? if not can you post a link to what you purchased..

 

[AxleHub]

Axle you bought the product I have listed above? if not can you post a link to what you purchased..

Niko,

I ordered it the other day and should have it about tuesday or wednesday.

I was surprised at its weight. The shipping weight is over 70# which indicates it is substantially built.

And they have zero sales or promo pricing or multi unit discounts. None. I've watched for months as I considered the idea.

But like I mentioned . . When I get it should be soon and I'm familiar with thebtype of material they use in the edge itself . . So it will be interesting to see how it wears on a smooth cncrete vs. A broomed finish concrete (i have both).

 

[s219]

S219, I'm curious about your idea of a slotted pipe over the front bucket edge.

1. What kind of pipe are you referring to . . Pvc pipe or black plastic irrigation pipe or conduit or ????

2. How would you hold it on the blade edge? Or are you talking about a big enough diameter pipe (like 2.5 or 3 inch diameter pipe) that could slip/slide over the bucket edge entirely and then is self holding?

In my use a protected bucket edge will be for slush and 1 or 2 inch snows or for big drifts. We get quite a few 6 to 12 inch snows here and I have a snowblower on a zero turn garden tractor that is for the deeper needs. I love concrete sidewalks and driveways vs. gravel or blacktop or pavers etc. . but having a bunch of it will be easier this year with the new scut tractor

There is a lot of flexibility in what you use. Thick PVC will work, but wears out fast. The pro is that it's cheap and easy to cut a slit in (with table saw). You can make a few and replace as they wear. With the slot cut right (can experiment) they will snap on the edge and stay there. I believe I used 1" or 1-1/4", can't remember.

I used PVC my first winter on my rear blade and front bucket. Last year I changed to galvanized pipe for the rear blade. That is harder to cut a slit into unless you have a plasma cutter or something equivalent, so I welded on ears and bolted it on. But plenty of people here have cut a slit into metal pipe or tubing and just snapped it on (both for front bucket and front/rear blades).

 

[s219]

rear blades also good for other purposes around the house, but for snow with the blade on the back and driving forward how do you drive threw thick snow makes no sense to me, or if i drive backwards using the rear blade pushing the snow, which to me make no sense either. i got a decent sized driveway so def not gonna keep my back turned all the time.

but i do see the rear blade being more of a multi npurpose item for 300 bucks, same price as the attachemnt i have posted up top and that only does one thing.

You can certainly turn the rear blade around and push snow, but remember that the rear 3-pt arms are not meant for pushing (just pulling) so any pushing (snow or dirt) should be limited and gentle. Lots of posts on TBN from people breaking their 3-pt by pushing too hard in reverse. I do turn my rear blade around for clearing some tight spots near my garage where pushing in reverse helps, but am very gentle/careful.

As far as forward snow removal with a rear blade, it works amazingly well. The most I have cleared in one swipe is about 10" with an L3200. Unless you have a snow blower (and even then in many cases) you won't be clearing more than about 8-10" in one swipe with a compact tractor with a front or rear blade, since the tractor just won't maintain steering or traction with too much snow. If you see a 20" snow coming and you don't have a blower (or the blower has limitations) then you should plan on getting out there after the first 8-10" to clear, then hit it again at the end. If that's not feasible, look into a capable snow blower.

If you only have a small area to clear, the front loader should be fine. But for more than a 100' drive or so, a rear blade will be vastly superior. My driveway is about 700' long. When using the front bucket, it took a long time to get it cleared and it was messy. With a 72" rear blade angled to clear a ~ 64" path, I make one pass down one side the driveway and another pass up the other side, and I am done. Total of about 8-10 minutes. Then I will spend another 15 minutes clearing a much smaller parking area with the rear blade, front bucket, and shovel. And maybe another 15 minutes up by the road neatening up my entrance with the rear blade and front bucket.

 

[AxleHub]

No snow yet . . but my clamp on Snow Edge from Ratchet Rake arrived yesterday. Not asking for snow . . . . Not not not asking . . but when it comes I'm getting ready for it