Looking to purchase a MF, which one is enough?

[nalle]

Hi everyone,
well we are new in the Tractor world and need some help with the right size. Since the Dealer are dismissing the smaller units. Been at JD, K, Yanmar.
I like the Specs of the Massey Ferguson and looks, but would like to get more input from more experienced folks.
We have 5 acres (steep) with 1/4mile driveway in North Idaho. Planning on use the Tractor in these ways:

• Snow removal on driveway and yard, will hunt down an old Pull behind V-Style PTO Blower
• Use the Loader for Wet-Snow removal "pretty rare around here"
• Maintain the driveway, thinking Box-Scaper
• Gathering Firewood off the Property
• Moving And stacking Firewood. Wood stacked on a 3' tall Pallet "with side walls", Want to move them 1 by 1 in the winter close to the door
• Moving Dirt, slowly filling in a reviene we have. Gaining flat ground to park.
• Wood-Chipper down the road.
• Tons of other ways I haven't even thought of yet.

I like the MF 1526, just don't know if it can handle all. Don't mind if I have to run a extra run with the .... since this is private use, as Long as it can handle it.
Or if the 1736 the better option, to manage the task?
Like I said flat surface is a premium around here, so turning radius is important. On the other side I am pretty Big, 6'6" tall and could be less wide.
I know I'll have to check them out in person, just looking for pointer before showing up at the dealership.

Thanks

Mike

 

[jeff9366]

Massey Ferguson 1526

2011 - 2018 1500 Series
Model years
Compact Utility tractor

Production:
Manufacturer: Massey Ferguson
Original price (USD)
$15,968 (2017 )

Massey Ferguson 1526 Engine:
Iseki 1.5L 3-cyl diesel

Capacity:
Fuel: 7.1 gal [26.9 L]

3-Point Hitch:
Rear Type: I
Control: position control
Rear lift (at ends): 1322 lbs [599 kg]
Rear lift (at 24"/610mm): 992 lbs [449 kg]

Power Take-off (PTO):
Rear PTO: independent
Clutch: electro-hydraulic
Rear RPM: 540
Mid PTO: independent
Mid RPM: 2000

Dimensions & Tires:
Wheelbase: 61.4 inches [155 cm]
Weight: 1873 lbs [849 kg]
Front tire: 7-12
Rear tire: 35x12.00-16.5
Ground clearance: 11 inches [27 cm]

Massey Ferguson 1526 attachments:
mowing deck
front-end loader

Massey Ferguson 1526 Power:
Engine (gross): 24.8 hp [18.5 kW]
PTO (claimed): 20.1 hp [15.0 kW]

Mechanical:
Chassis: 4x4 MFWD 4WD
Differential lock: mechanical rear
Steering: power
Brakes: wet disc
Cab: Two-post foldable ROPS.

Hydraulics:
Type: open center
SCV flow: 5.5 gpm [20.8 lpm]
Total flow: 8.7 gpm [32.9 lpm]
Steering flow: 3.2 gpm [12.1 lpm]




Massey Ferguson 1726E

2013 - 1700 Series
Compact Utility tractor
Series next: Massey Ferguson 1726E
Series back: Massey Ferguson 1726E

Production:
Manufacturer: Massey Ferguson

Massey Ferguson 1726E Engine:
Shibaura 1.5L 3-cyl diesel
full engine details ...

Capacity:
Fuel: 10 gal [37.9 L]

3-Point Hitch:
Rear Type: I
Rear lift (at ends): 2205 lbs [1000 kg]
Rear lift (at 24"/610mm): 1598 lbs [724 kg]

Power Take-off (PTO):
Rear PTO: transmission
Rear RPM: 540 (1.375)

Dimensions & Tires:
Wheelbase: 65.9 inches [167 cm]
Weight: 2600 to 2657 pounds

Massey Ferguson 1726E Power:
Engine: 24 hp [17.9 kW]
PTO (claimed): 20.4 hp [15.2 kW] (gear)
19.2 hp [14.3 kW] (hydro)

Mechanical:
Chassis: 4x4 MFWD 4WD
Final drives: bull gear
Differential lock: rear standard
Steering: hydrostatic power
Brakes: wet disc
Cab: Two-post foldable ROPS.

Hydraulics:
Type: open center gear pump
SCV flow: 6.7 gpm [25.4 lpm]
Total flow: 10.5 gpm [39.7 lpm]
Steering flow: 3.8 gpm [14.4 lpm]

 

[jeff9366]

I owned a Kubota B3300 SU tractor-loader. Same specs as the MF 1526. I sold it after 400 hours because it was too light - and I operate only on flat ground.

Go with the MF1726E. You have several ground contact applications where tractor weight is EVERYTHING and you anticipate operating on slopes where the heavier machine will be more stable under load. Consider installing 2 X 3" rear wheel spacers at time of purchase, when installation charge will be minimal.
MORE: tractor for steep terrain site:tractorbynet.com - Google Search

For driveway maintenance consider a Land Plane / Grading Scraper (LPGS).
VIDEO: land plane grading scraper - YouTube

I am a great fan of the Ratchet Rake bucket attachment. Good for light grading, paired with either a Box Blade or LPGS and highly useful in woodland maintenance, especially for corralling brush.
VIDEO: ratchet rake - YouTube

Five acres is about the upper limit in property size practical for a tractor wood chipper, which are maintenance intensive after the first or second year. Property owners with greater acreage almost always burn. That includes me.

Enjoy your research and consideration. Anticipation is 50% of satisfaction.

GOOD FIRST POST.

 

[nalle]

Thanks Jeff,
for weight all dealers around here seem to fill the Rear Tires with "Beet Juice". Some do this standard, others recommend it highly.
We want to spend our Money wisely and not on items that may just have a High Commission.
JD Salesperson pushing past the 10, 20, 30K within seconds then coming to the this would work but a bit on the small size (Family 3 Tractor) and of course we need a Cab, then pushing us to the next Size up. As I started to ask about the smaller ones and with no Cab, it was all over. Handed me some Brochures and have a nice day.

Going to the 1700 Series, is it worth the upgrade to the Premium? Price difference about 4K.

Thanks and Happy new Year.

 

[jeff9366]

Filling rear tractor 3/4 full with liquid lowers the tractor center-of-gravity, making the tractor more stable on slopes. Greater weight in rear tires also gives rear tires more traction. Beet juice is very dense and has a low freezing point. Beet juice is the premium tire "loading" material.

Rear wheel spacers increase stability further.


Tractors are a long term purchase and hold value pretty well. At some time you will recover a good part of your initial investment.

Consider that assembly cost of 1526 and 1726 is virtually identical. You are paying for thicker steel which will be much stronger, larger tires which smooth your ride and higher capacity hydraulic lift cylinders in the Loader and Three Point Hitch.

BUY ENOUGH TRACTOR.​

 

[jeff9366]

Going to the 1700 Series, is it worth the upgrade to the Premium? Price difference about 4K.

I am not familiar enough with MF lineup to answer your question with authority.

I owned a Deere and later a Kubota tractor with standard kit before buying a Kubota 'Grand L' which has deluxe kit standard, as my third tractor.

I find the Kubota Grand L features well worth the money. MF salesman should be able to justify $4,000 price difference in detail.

You will probably want to PUSH tractor implements occasionally in your ground contact tasks. In order to PUSH implements you need RIGID stabilizers attached to the Three Point Hitch lower links.

Cheaper tractors usually have "chain" stabilizers, which are fine PULLING but offer zero support when PUSHING implements. See photo. The chain/turnbuckle stabilizers weight around four pounds. Rigid stabilizer weigh around twelve pounds.
VIDEO: Standard vs Deluxe 3 Point Hitch - YouTube



MORE: standard vs deluxe tractors site:tractorbynet.com - Google Search

 

[nalle]

Thanks for all your input, totally agree with

Tractors are a long term purchase and that value pretty well. At some time you will recover a good part of your initial investment.

BUY ENOUGH TRACTOR.​

We want to just find the right one, that we can have for many years to come.

If I got this all right the "RIGID stabilizers attached to the Three Point Hitch lower links" on the Economy vs Premium models. Both have them, just the Economy has Screw in Stabilizers vs "Pin Style". Thinner Drawbar on the Economy Model. The Lower Hook up points are fixed, compared to extendable ones on the Premium Series. Also the 3 Point Hitch has about 900# higher lifting power on the Premium Series.

Thanks

 

[redman135]

Hello Nalle, 1) Get on the tractor and try for fit. Seriously, the ergonomics do vary(I have been laughed at for this statement). Some tractors have controls that are exactly right when you go to use them, while others are not quite right. These irritate and take the gloss off the tractor.
2) As you as on hills adjust the rear wheels to max width for stability. If the rims are fixed, then get adjustable rims fitted or go duals. You will be amazed at how much more stable the tractor feels.
3) Load your tyres. Much safer on hills when using a loader, and better traction.
4) Get tyres with 45 degree tread. They stick to the hillside best. If you are uncertain what I mean then look at the "V" the tread forms. If it is close to 90 degrees at the base of the "V" then you have 45 degree tread . If you are lucky they will be factory standard and save you the cost of changing them.
5)Cab, -does your head hit the roof?
-does the wiper wipe the windscreen where you look? ( I usually have to get a longer wiper on cab tractors and trucks as factory wipers are to low. I am quite tall.)
-reflections on the windscreen/ windows when driving into the shed /manuvering in tight areas , how deceptive are they?
-does the rear wiper park in your eye line when reversing? (MF 5465 grrrrrr)
6) even only a lean-to shelter will make a difference to cold starting

 

[ID Corgi Ranch]

Hi everyone,
well we are new in the Tractor world and need some help with the right size. Since the Dealer are dismissing the smaller units. Been at JD, K, Yanmar.
I like the Specs of the Massey Ferguson and looks, but would like to get more input from more experienced folks.
We have 5 acres (steep) with 1/4mile driveway in North Idaho. Planning on use the Tractor in these ways:

• Snow removal on driveway and yard, will hunt down an old Pull behind V-Style PTO Blower
• Use the Loader for Wet-Snow removal "pretty rare around here"
• Maintain the driveway, thinking Box-Scaper
• Gathering Firewood off the Property
• Moving And stacking Firewood. Wood stacked on a 3' tall Pallet "with side walls", Want to move them 1 by 1 in the winter close to the door
• Moving Dirt, slowly filling in a reviene we have. Gaining flat ground to park.
• Wood-Chipper down the road.
• Tons of other ways I haven't even thought of yet.

I like the MF 1526, just don't know if it can handle all. Don't mind if I have to run a extra run with the .... since this is private use, as Long as it can handle it.
Or if the 1736 the better option, to manage the task?
Like I said flat surface is a premium around here, so turning radius is important. On the other side I am pretty Big, 6'6" tall and could be less wide.
I know I'll have to check them out in person, just looking for pointer before showing up at the dealership.

Thanks

Mike

Hi, Mike...

Like you I'm a relative tractor noob. I use my MF 1710 much like you want to use the tractor you want to buy and it's pretty close to the 1526 you're thinking about in terms of size and performance. We have 10 acres in the LC Valley and I use mine for road/driveway maintenance, snow removal, spreading gravel, and moving heavy items around. I also planned to use it for some work in a creek bed on the property, mostly moving trees that beavers have felled in the last year or so. I've owned my 1710 for about a year and just sold it yesterday. It simply isn't big enough to do what I want to do with it. Well, it is...it just takes a long time. And I'll darn near have to cut the trees into firewood size logs to move them with the 1710.

I have a new tractor on the way. Not a Massey (out of my budget range for what I wanted) but a TYM. I can tell you from first-hand experience, you're gonna run out of horsepower really quickly with the smaller tractor. At least I did. The 1710 is a great machine and I wish I could keep it because the size makes it very handy...one of it's best, and worst, features. I would say, between the two you're looking at, definitely go with the 1736. I recently got a quote of $33k total cost, shipped to me, for a new 2017 1736 with cab and HST. I thought that was a pretty good price but still more than I could pay.

I opted for a different brand and got a new 46 HP tractor with cab and a few goodies the MF didn't have standard for $28.5 shipped to me. Same tractor without cab can be had for low 20's.

It's definitely gonna be bigger and won't fit in some of the places the 1710 will but it'll do a lot more work in less time. I can't wait to get it.

Good luck with your search.

ETA: Forgot to mention the size thing. I'm not nearly as tall as you and it's a bit of a reach, even for me at 5' 8", to comfortably reach the steering wheel. I almost have to lean over. Also, you pretty much nailed the differences between the E models and the Premium models. One thing is the joy-stick is much easier to reach on the premium machines. Probably money well spent.

 

[nalle]

Thanks for the input, I am heading to the dealer during the week and going to "try them on"
Looks like everything I am reading and what I am hearing is to consider the 1736 or 17xx Series.
We are going for a open Station for 2 reasons: Cost and driving with lower branches, don't want to wreck such a expensive item.
The V - Tread Form Tires are you talking about the Ag Tires?

Once again Thanks for your help.

Mike