MF 135 Draft control

[Mulligancreek]

I bought a 1973 MF 135 with a Perkins gas engine one month ago. My first tractor. I have spent the last month in my freezing cold garage rewiring, changing fluids and filters and doing minor repairs. So far a great little tractor. I can't wait to get it up to my hunting property in northern Michigan to start this years food plots.
Anyway my problem is the draft/position controls. When I brought it home the levers were rusted together so they would only move as one. I fixed that but I now find that the draft control will raise and lower the lifts but the position control will not. Any ideas? Thanks

Larry

 

[Farmwithjunk]

I bought a 1973 MF 135 with a Perkins gas engine one month ago. My first tractor. I have spent the last month in my freezing cold garage rewiring, changing fluids and filters and doing minor repairs. So far a great little tractor. I can't wait to get it up to my hunting property in northern Michigan to start this years food plots.
Anyway my problem is the draft/position controls. When I brought it home the levers were rusted together so they would only move as one. I fixed that but I now find that the draft control will raise and lower the lifts but the position control will not. Any ideas? Thanks

Larry

How did you go about getting the 2 levers to operate independently of each other? Did you remove the lift cover? The two levers work on shafts, one a hollow tube, and the other a solid rod that goes inside the hollow outer tube. They frequently freeze up due to rust. Often when they're forced apart, the position control lever simply strips out where it attaches to that hollow outer tube, and will then move WITHOUT moving that tube. They SEEM to be working, but are still in the same state as when the two levers moved together. The lever is moving but it's not actually actuating the position control.

There's also a chance you might have damaged the position control mechanism INSIDE the rear housing where that hollow tube connects.

In the end, you'll need to remove the lift cover to diagnose the failure.

Go to "BIG DEAN" Austin's website and order his CD on 100 series diagnosis and repair.


Big Dean's Massey Ferguson tips

 

[WilliamBos]

FWJ hit the nail on the head. Also, do yourself a favour, goto an MF/AGCO dealer and order new shifter booties. Be the best $40 you will ever spend!!

Will

I bought a 1973 MF 135 with a Perkins gas engine one month ago. My first tractor. I have spent the last month in my freezing cold garage rewiring, changing fluids and filters and doing minor repairs. So far a great little tractor. I can't wait to get it up to my hunting property in northern Michigan to start this years food plots.
Anyway my problem is the draft/position controls. When I brought it home the levers were rusted together so they would only move as one. I fixed that but I now find that the draft control will raise and lower the lifts but the position control will not. Any ideas? Thanks

Larry

 

[Mulligancreek]

Thanks

FWJ I used penetrating oil on the shaft tube and just worked it until the two seperated. I might have damaged it. I will check. Removing the lift cover looks like a big deal. Anything else I should do while I'm in there?

Larry

 

[Farmwithjunk]

Thanks

FWJ I used penetrating oil on the shaft tube and just worked it until the two seperated. I might have damaged it. I will check. Removing the lift cover looks like a big deal. Anything else I should do while I'm in there?

Larry

When you take off the lift cover, first drain down the oil level in the rear sump. Remove all but a couple gallons. Remove the blank-off plate on the lift cover just under the front of the seat. (approx. 2" x 3") There will be a standpipe that comes out with it. Carefully remove that. Then unbolt the RIGHT side inspection cover where draft response control and dipstick are located. (approx. 8" dia. round) You will find some of the lift control right behind that. There will be two flat pieces that point downward. At the bottom of those two pieces, you'll find a small roller that's held between the 2 pieces. You'll notice an "arm" that the roller rides against under normal use. Gently pull them apart and remove that roller. Be carefull so it doesn't drop into the sump. That, and a handful of bolts on top of the lift cover will be all that hold it. Failure to remove that roller before lifting the lift cover can be disasterous. Raise the lift cover, flip it over, and inspect for your problem.

Re-install in reverse order.

While you're inside, take a look at the pump in the area just behind that round inspection cover you've removed. There should ba a strainer and on MOST models, a filter that can be serviced at this time.

 

[Mulligancreek]

Mine has a remote hydraulic in the rear. I assume the blank off plate is on mine the rear hydraulic connection. It is a small plate with hydraulic lines and a small lever just under the seat.

Larry

 

[Mulligancreek]

By the way I just replaced the hydraulic fluid and cleaned the filter. The lift seems to move faster now and with more strength. Before I could push the lift arms down with my own weight with the tractor running. It does drift down slowly when I shut it off. From prior posts I understand this is normal.

Larry

 

[Farmwithjunk]

Mine has a remote hydraulic in the rear. I assume the blank off plate is on mine the rear hydraulic connection. It is a small plate with hydraulic lines and a small lever just under the seat.

Larry

That small plate w/ small lever is an isolator valve. That is there in place of where the "black-off" plate I spoke of would have been without the remotes.