Massey 135

[Texas Blues]

For those of you interested in more pictures, I finally got the motor of of the tractor today and took a few pics. The more I took apart, the more money I will apparently be spending! It seems that my bell housing oiling system is working great! lol. Clutch is shot, outer timing cover will have to be replaced, the water pump area of it is almost ate through. Pistons are pretty worn and will be replaced along with the sleeves. Not sure if you can tell by the picture of the side of the block, but there is a big patch of JB weld. I guess there is a crack in the block, I havent chipped it away yet to see for sure, but why else would it be there. I do have a question about the double clutch. I didnt think I had a live pto, is that the reason for a double clutch, or is that normal for any model without a live pto? Thanks!

 

[WilliamBos]

dual stage clutch = live PTO.

 

[schlen]

a word of advice about that double-clutch--make sure you know how to re-assemble--doa google search-- it's easy to screw up if you use too much force and then the repair is expensive.. sorry I don't remember the particulars but I almost bought one that was screwed up because they reasssembled it incorrectly.

good luck on a good model tractor

 

[Texas Blues]

Thanks Will, I wasnt sure about that. I wonder if the pressure plate can be resurfaced, or just have to be replaced. I havent looked at the inner disk yet, but they disks are oil soaked anyway and will be replaced. The rod bearings were in considerably good shape for a 70 model, only a little scaring on one bearing. Will be pulling the crank out soon, and will be inspecting the mains. Have any of you guys had to have a cracked block repaired? I have a feeling my block will need a crack repaired, or the block replaced if it cant be repaired. Thanks all.

 

[soulasphil]

Correct. You have a larger 11" disk for the gear box and a smaller 9" disk for the PTO.

 

[Texas Blues]

Pulled the crank out today. The mains were in good shape. Crank may need to be turned, or polished at least. No scaring on the crank main bearing journals, just on one of the crank rod journals. I will take it in and see what they say. I got away with only breaking three of the outer timing cover bolts. Applied heat to all of them, that helped with most of them. The steel bolts corroded inside of the aluminum timing cover, making it a pain to get them out. I dont think I will have a sealing problem with the three broken bolts. Will be taking the block in to get the sleeves pulled, didnt want to spend the money on a sleeve puller. The local massey dealer can pull them alot cheaper than buying the tool. Timing gears look ok with only slight wear. Dont think they will be a problem.

 

[jones6780]

Tex, Looks like you have your work all lined up. I would try removing the broken bolts. Patience and a steady hand and you can drill a small hole dead center through the steel bolt and insert penetration oil . Let it soak before trying an easy out. When you put it back together you might try some anti-sieze compound. Who knows 39 years from now you might have to rebuild it again.

 

[MFRED]

If your block is cracked, you may want to pric a new engine, you would be surprised how cheap one can be had for that tractor. And it will have all new accesories, just hook it up & go, plug & play so to speak. Take time to add up all the expenses, it usually figure out to be pretty close if you're doing head work and such. Same for the clutch, those kits are pretty cheap too.

 

[Texas Blues]

Yea MFRED, I may have to go that way. I did find a core good used block for 400.00. Havent looked very hard yet for a short block or a used block either. Im sure I will run across one if needed. Any suggestions on a source for those kind of parts? I have heard of repairs on these blocks, and that might still be an option. Guess I'll be chipping that jb weld off of there soon and find out. The one guy I did talk to said he thought the 3cyl gas block was the same block as the diesel version (and the crank). If so, that should make finding a good block easier. Thanks

 

[flusher]

Thanks Will, I wasnt sure about that. I wonder if the pressure plate can be resurfaced, or just have to be replaced. I havent looked at the inner disk yet, but they disks are oil soaked anyway and will be replaced. The rod bearings were in considerably good shape for a 70 model, only a little scaring on one bearing. Will be pulling the crank out soon, and will be inspecting the mains. Have any of you guys had to have a cracked block repaired? I have a feeling my block will need a crack repaired, or the block replaced if it cant be repaired. Thanks all.

Supposedly someone with decent stick welding skill can repair a cracked block using nickel welding rod. Never tried it myself, but probably will have to learn how to do this soon. I have several repairs to do on cast iron parts for my 1951 Farmall Super A.

My 1964 MF-135 diesel is holding together pretty well so far. Need to replace the rear seal on the pto shaft and see if I can adjust the 2-stage clutch so I can engage/disengage the pto without having to shut off the engine. If not, I'll be splitting my 135 in the near future for a clutch job.