pics of "new" 1967 135 and a few questions

[joel.smith1969]

Here are a few pics of the new workhorse of my farm. Spent the day disking and harrowing my arena...partly to warm up the hydraulic fluid and mostly to play and learn the machine. She did great, no bogging down in the heavy sand at all. Issues noticed are as noted:

1. Draft control works going up, but slow on going down. Position lever does not seem to work.

2. Very small leak from cotter pin underneath after finished for the day.

3. small oil leak from oil drain plug. Need to drain and refill anyway, will try teflon tape on plug when I reinstall. Question, how much oil does this monster take? is Rotella OK?

4. Small leak from somewhere underneath alternator. Cannot determine where. Appears to be around what looks like the timing chain cover...if this has a timing chain.

5. did these come with a glo plug? If so, where is it and are replacements available. My key only has two positions, crank and neutral. My tractor has a label on it stating to use a shot of ether while cranking.

Already drained hyd. fluid and flushed with diesel. Will clean filter tomorrow and hopefully my draft and position control will work better. Hope you like the pics.

 

[joel.smith1969]

has anyone tried a "leak stop" additive to the oil to take care of leaks? Just a thought. Thanks

 

[flusher]

Here are a few pics of the new workhorse of my farm. Spent the day disking and harrowing my arena...partly to warm up the hydraulic fluid and mostly to play and learn the machine. She did great, no bogging down in the heavy sand at all. Issues noticed are as noted:

1. Draft control works going up, but slow on going down. Position lever does not seem to work.

2. Very small leak from cotter pin underneath after finished for the day.

3. small oil leak from oil drain plug. Need to drain and refill anyway, will try teflon tape on plug when I reinstall. Question, how much oil does this monster take? is Rotella OK?

4. Small leak from somewhere underneath alternator. Cannot determine where. Appears to be around what looks like the timing chain cover...if this has a timing chain.

5. did these come with a glo plug? If so, where is it and are replacements available. My key only has two positions, crank and neutral. My tractor has a label on it stating to use a shot of ether while cranking.

Already drained hyd. fluid and flushed with diesel. Will clean filter tomorrow and hopefully my draft and position control will work better. Hope you like the pics.

Great looking 135. Congrats.
No glowplugs on my 135 diesel. The operator manual says starting fluid can be sprayed directly into the air cleaner for cold weather starting (sparingly and carefully). There's also a 500 watt engine block heating kit available. The heater is installed in place of one of the freeze plugs in the side of the engine block. It's 120 volt.

 

[Reg]

Great looking 135. Congrats.
No glowplugs on my 135 diesel. The operator manual says starting fluid can be sprayed directly into the air cleaner for cold weather starting (sparingly and carefully). There's also a 500 watt engine block heating kit available. The heater is installed in place of one of the freeze plugs in the side of the engine block. It's 120 volt.

I don't know that particular engine, but there is a GENERAL rule that the bigger the individual cylinders the less you need glow plugs.
So the more modern small engines with 4 cylinders are more glow plug dependent than the old large displacement engines with only 3 or 2 cylinders.

Can you publish bore and stroke dimensions ?
tnx

 

[Texas Blues]

Beautiful! Looks like you found a good one. The cotter pin area leak is probably the oil pan/rear seal or the tranny input shaft seals. Very common either way. I guess as far as that goes, leaks in general on old tractors is very common. Not usually a huge deal, unless its just pouring out. Back to the cotter pin leak, the clutch will eventually get oil soaked if it hasnt already and may cause slippage. My disks were completly oil soaked but still pulled ok. Some guys here have just degreased the disks and reused them. Good Luck with the new toy. TB

 

[dieselfreak]

They have a thermostart; turn the key in the other direction to pre heat, to the left IIRC. Unless you want to do an in-frame Overhaul, leave the either in the hardware store. Perkins Diesels, do not like either, you will break the ring lands off the pistons if you use either. With a good working thermostart, no either will be needed. And if you have a block heater, you are better off. This inffo was also confirmed by MF Guru "Big" Dean Austin.

The thermostart is in the intake manifold, has a single fuel line, and a wire running to it, which heats the diesel. Have a look.

They use timing gears. One of the most popular tractor series ever built. If you have an MF dealer near by, you will have parts. Also A& I and Sparex. Find an MF dealer, and get a parts, service, and ownwers manual. Will cost less than $100, and are far superior than any other manuals out there.

Awesome tractor.


df.

Here are a few pics of the new workhorse of my farm. Spent the day disking and harrowing my arena...partly to warm up the hydraulic fluid and mostly to play and learn the machine. She did great, no bogging down in the heavy sand at all. Issues noticed are as noted:

1. Draft control works going up, but slow on going down. Position lever does not seem to work.

2. Very small leak from cotter pin underneath after finished for the day.

3. small oil leak from oil drain plug. Need to drain and refill anyway, will try teflon tape on plug when I reinstall. Question, how much oil does this monster take? is Rotella OK?

4. Small leak from somewhere underneath alternator. Cannot determine where. Appears to be around what looks like the timing chain cover...if this has a timing chain.

5. did these come with a glo plug? If so, where is it and are replacements available. My key only has two positions, crank and neutral. My tractor has a label on it stating to use a shot of ether while cranking.

Already drained hyd. fluid and flushed with diesel. Will clean filter tomorrow and hopefully my draft and position control will work better. Hope you like the pics.

 

[flusher]

I don't know that particular engine, but there is a GENERAL rule that the bigger the individual cylinders the less you need glow plugs.
So the more modern small engines with 4 cylinders are more glow plug dependent than the old large displacement engines with only 3 or 2 cylinders.

Can you publish bore and stroke dimensions ?
tnx

Perkins AD3.152 diesel
Bore is 3.6", stroke 5.0"
Displacement 152.7 cubic inches
Compression ratio 17.4:1

 

[dieselsmoke1]

Congrats on your 135! It's the gold standard in general purpose utility tractors.