My 1966 Massey 135 Tractor (Pics)

[dex3361]

The rear tires are loaded with calcium so when the time comes to take the rear wheels off and have the rims changed, I'd like to pump the calcium out and store it in some 55 gallon plastic barrels I have, then reverse the process after putting the rear wheels back on. This should make the process of moving the wheels much easier, and cheaper to have the rims changed without loaded tires.

Does anyone know where I can buy a hose to valve stem adapter and a small pump suitable for the task? For example, here are two air liquid adapters I found at Gemplers:

Air/Liquid Adapter Kit - GEMPLER'S

Quick Fill Tractor Tire Attachment - GEMPLER'S

Tractor Supply carries a tire valve to water hose adapter for about $10. You can get a drill operated pump to transfer the fluid. I would not put the calcium back for the very reason you are taking it out, corrosion. I use glycol and I have found if you puncture a tire you can plug it without draining the tire. :thumbsup: The steering box has an adjustment screw with a lock nut. If you loosen the lock nut and have someone rock the steering wheel back and forth while you slowly adjust the screw in and you will take the play out unless the gear box is worn out or in need of repair.:thumbsup:

 

[MasseyWV]

Tractor Supply carries a tire valve to water hose adapter for about $10. You can get a drill operated pump to transfer the fluid. I would not put the calcium back for the very reason you are taking it out, corrosion. I use glycol and I have found if you puncture a tire you can plug it without draining the tire. :thumbsup:

Thanks for the info. I never thought to look for an adapter at TSC. And I agree, a drill pump should more than suffice for the task at hand. I was thinking about putting something less corrosive than calcium back in the tires when the time comes, but hadn't given much thought to it yet because it will probably be this fall or winter before I change the rims.

Propylene (not ethelene) glycol sounds like a good idea, what ratio of water to glycol did you use? My biggest concern, aside from being safe for my pets, is the cost of any alternative I may use, which makes propylene glycol sound like it would be a very feasible option.

The steering box has an adjustment screw with a lock nut. If you loosen the lock nut and have someone rock the steering wheel back and forth while you slowly adjust the screw in and you will take the play out unless the gear box is worn out or in need of repair.:thumbsup:

I was thinking that the adjustment screw on the side of the steering box might take some or all of the slack out of the steering wheel but wasn't sure. Now that most of my major "tractor tasks" are nearly complete, and the shop and owners manuals are due to arrive in a few days, I'm planning to start performing some of the repairs it needs. I'll be sure to try your suggestion when the time comes.

 

[MasseyWV]

For those who may be interested, I found the following information on another website about several different types of tire ballast.

Comparing Types of Liquid Tire Ballast | OrangeTractorTalks

Since my tires are already equipped with innertubes, I may just reuse the calcium mixture, but if I can obtain enough propylene glycol antifreeze for a reasonable cost, I may go with that option instead.

 

[MasseyWV]

As mentioned previously, I eventually plan to do a full (or near full) restoration on my Massey 135. With this in mind, I've been locating various sources for parts I'll need when the time comes. Fortunately, it seems that I'll be able to obtain virtually everything that will be needed directly from AGCO and many other sources.

However, I'm having difficulty locating a source for the wiring harness for the Massey 135 with a Continental Z-145 4 cylinder gas engine, equipped with a generator. I can easily fabricate my own wiring harness, but I'd like to keep it original, if one can be found, and for a reasonable price.

At the very least, I'd like to be able to locate a source for the various plugs and connectors, as well as knowing the color coding and gauge for the various wires used.

 

[frankroberts]

Unfortunately, the rear rims will need to be replaced soon due to heavy corrosion around the valve stems,

Great looking tractor! The rims on my MF 50 were rusted in spots from leaking salt water so I cut out the rot and welded in patches. Also had rims sand blasted before painting. Worked fine and cheaper than buying new. But I guess you do need a welder. Anyway best of luck with your tractor.

 

[dex3361]

Propylene (not ethelene) glycol sounds like a good idea, what ratio of water to glycol did you use? My biggest concern, aside from being safe for my pets, is the cost of any alternative I may use, which makes propylene glycol sound like it would be a very feasible option

You could use windshield washer fluid, either check with a auto parts warehouse and buy it in the drum or catch it on sale at Advance Auto. The great thing about glycol type fluid is if you run a nail or stick through a tire you can plug it without draining the fluid or worrying about the expense of taking the tire off of the rim and cleaning the calcium chloride off each time. I have had many bad experiences with CC:thumbsup:

 

[OBWON]

I found this Massey at an older garage where I have my truck serviced. I own a 2006 MF 1533, so I snapped these shots to show my kids how things have changed. Any idea on the year of this one???

 

[dex3361]

Somewhere between 1961-1965. Those were fine little tractors. Very close to the MF135 just a few less hp

 

[MasseyWV]

I've managed to make some progress while tinkering with the Massey 135 to begin getting it back into shape. I say tinkering because that's all I'm really doing for now because I plan to eventually do a full restoration so doing too much right now would likely be a waste of money.

So far, I've taken all of the front sheetmetal off so I can begin to straighten it out and have easier access to the engine as I work on it. I also removed the rear fender with the heavily dented/mangled corner and have come a long way towards hammering it back into shape. Getting the rusted screws and bolts out was a challenge, but I managed without too much difficulty, except for one of the retaining bolts that held the rear fender mount in place, which was stuck and required some persuasion to get out of the hole so I could remove the fender.

It was long past time for an oil change so I replaced the old oil with 6 quarts of Valvoline SAE 10w40 along with a new oil filter. The old oil, aside from needing changed, showed no signs of moisture or other contaminates so it looks like the engine is ok, aside from needing the valves adjusted, and a new set of valve seals... for now.

Speaking of the engine, it smokes (light blue oil smoke) on startup and idle until it gets hot, so I'm planning to change the valve seals while I have the valve cover off to adjust the valves. Granted, the oil control rings could also be stuck from carbon buildup, but I'm hoping that valve seals takes care of most of the oil smoke until I tear it down for a rebuild during the restoration.

The shop manual hasn't arrived yet but in the mean time, does anyone have any experience with adjusting the valves and/or changing the valve seals in a Continental Z-145 engine? I hear the Z-134 uses the same heads so it should be applicable as well.

 

[MasseyWV]

Today, I took the valve cover off to get a look inside, and my suspicions about the valve lash needing adjusted were correct.

In fact, I have never seen valves so far out of adjustment. If memory serves, on the Continental Z-145 engine, the valve lash should be .015 cold or .013 hot, and currently the valve lash is closer to 1/8 of an inch on the valves I looked at, which tells me that the valve lash has probably never been adjusted. I'll have to turn the engine to check the rest of the valves but I have little doubt that they are the same.

Surprisingly, the inside of the engine, at least under the valve cover, is very clean and free of sludge.