My 1966 Massey 135 Tractor (Pics)

[MasseyWV]

Having just completed the disassembly and evaluation of my Massey 135's Delco-Remy 12v generator (more on that later), I wasn't doing much else and I decided to remove the rod bearing caps so I could inspect the rod bearings and crankshaft bearing journals. The rod bearings were in generally good condition, but there were signs of minor scuffing with what appeared to be some material embedded in the bearings, so I'll be replacing the rod bearings after all. Fortunately, the corresponding crankshaft bearing journals were in perfect condition.

One thing led to another, and I decided to go ahead and remove the pistons so I could get a better idea about their condition. I scribed the top of each piston to indicate it's location/orientation and removed the pistons from their cylinders by using the end of a wooden hammer handle pressed against the connecting rod and resting against the crankshaft as a guide, then lightly tapped against the hammer head with my hand. All of the pistons came out easily and appear to be in very good condition, with minimal carbon buildup.

Unfortunately, I'll have to wait to measure the cylinders, because as luck would have it, my bore gauge is nowhere to be found so a new one will have to be ordered tomorrow. If the cylinders all measure within tolerances, I now plan to replace the rings and hone the cylinders.

Change of plans... again.

Since I've gone this far, I may as well go all the way. Soon, I'll be removing the engine so I can complete the engine inspection/overhaul procedures in an engine stand, plus inspect the clutch assembly and change the front transmission seal. Currently, I don't have an engine hoist or engine stand, but fortunately my wife's father has both and is willing to let me borrow them for the duration of my engine rebuild. Previously, removing the engine would have required me to move the tractor so it was positioned under the overhead I beam in my garage so I could use my chain hoist, which would have been a pain to do.

 

[Mike476]

Glad you made the decision to take it to the next step. I hope for all your efforts you'll find minimal wear.

You started off well, bearing journals are good.

Kind of wish you weren't so darned far away, would enjoy giving you a hand.

 

[vegaome]

Why spend money fixing what isn't broken if it is still within tolerances. I'm glad you've been posting your progress. It's illuminating to those of us with less knowledge and experience.

I'm with you lava, I love this thread.

 

[banjodunn]

G'day I haven't looked in on this for a while but wow you are doing a really nice job there. I have got one question though it appears as though you are going to paint the inside of the sump and also the top of the head ( oil side) are you not worried that the oil will eventually break down the paint and you will end up with biits of paint floating aroud and blocking the pickup? Just wondeing as every engine I have worked on it is always bare metal in these areas the oil stops them from rusting.


Jon

 

[bucktaker]

Good to see you are completing the overhaul, a good block cleaning will also help the internal oil and water passages. I know my Z134 benefited from the dip.

It would be hard to imagine a 46 yr old engine not have internal wear, piston taper, rod bushing, crank end play. etc My point was not to just spend money foolishly but since he had gone to this extent with diassembly and I assume the same attention to detail on the re assembly and paint, it just made since to freshen the engine internals while it was at this stage . Call it money well spent.

Was the rod amd main caps still wired? as from the factory? My 1963 z134 was still wired. The rods shoul be stamped with what cylinder there were in look on the sides. It looks like my Z134 had the number 3 sleeve replaced early in it life as there was no number on that rod and lot of sealant was around the sleeve.

Harbour freight has a engine stands the are pretty cheap for. the Block is not too heavy after everything is removed.

 

[Soundguy]

When the time comes, one possibility I've been considering is installing new rings, then honing the cylinders. It would allow me to properly inspect the pistons and rods, effectively saving money while restoring the cylinders to like-new condition. Assuming that all cylinders are found to be within tolerances when they are measured.

It's easy to say "replace everything", but one has to remember that I have a very limited tractor budget to work with, so I must spend my money wisely.

if you put in new rings, ream the ridge at the top and re-hone cyl for cross hatch..

 

[MasseyWV]

Kind of wish you weren't so darned far away, would enjoy giving you a hand.

I would enjoy that too. In fact, that's part of what makes this fun, having people to share the experience with. I've tried coaxing my wife over to my garage, but she never stays long, probably because she just doesn't get it. In fact, she thinks I'm nuts for spending so much time and money to restore an old tractor.

I have got one question though it appears as though you are going to paint the inside of the sump and also the top of the head ( oil side) are you not worried that the oil will eventually break down the paint and you will end up with biits of paint floating aroud and blocking the pickup? Just wondeing as every engine I have worked on it is always bare metal in these areas the oil stops them from rusting.

I'm only priming the areas you mentioned, not painting them. It's something I've always done when overhauling an engine, mainly to prevent surface rust from forming before the engine is reassembled. If you look closely at some of my earlier pictures, the factory had also primed/painted internal engine areas where oil flows, possibly for the same reasons.

Note that while I did prime some gasket mating surfaces (valve cover, oil pan, etc), the head gasket and intake/exhaust manifold gasket mating surfaces should always be left bare for the best possible seal.

Was the rod amd main caps still wired? as from the factory?

All the main bearing cap bolts were still wired, but the rod bearing cap bolts didn't use wires, rather they had bent locking tabs which appear to have never been touched. All the bearings I've inspected have been stock sizes, so I believe everything is original and untouched.

 

[MasseyWV]

Last night, I was tinkering with the tractor, much like I always do, when I started to think about the costs associated with the rebuild. As it turns out, a total engine rebuild would only cost about $300 more than what everything will cost now, and if you add the cost of a new bore gauge (about $100) which would be needed to properly measure the cylinders prior to honing them, I'm only $200 away. I thought about it for a bit, then decided that a total engine rebuild is the way to go.

Having made the decision to do a total rebuild, I then proceeded to remove all the cylinder sleeves. They were a bit stubborn, but one by one, they all eventually came out.

The following pictures show what I found hiding in the water jacket behind the number 4 cylinder sleeve. I believe it may be some kind of radiator stop leak compound mixed with antifreeze and who knows what else. The pictures above were taken after the "sludge" was cleaned out.

 

[Soundguy]

mm.. yummy.. glad you got that out of there...

check harbor freight.. they may have a boer gauge cheap.. OR check an autop store.. some rent or loan tools.

 

[Mike476]

Well that's pretty gross. That sleeve looks pretty corroded, hard to determine the extent from a photo though. Good decision :thumbsup: