My 1966 Massey 135 Tractor (Pics)

[MasseyWV]

The following is a picture of my Massey 135's Marvel Schebler carburetor after it was disassembled and cleaned. Note that the carburetor body has been sandblasted, while the governor linkage has not. Since this picture was taken, both the carburetor body and governor linkage have been sandblasted and primed.

 

[MasseyWV]

Today, I picked up my parts from a local dealer, and it looks like everything I ordered is there, except for one part. The part that was missing is the control spring plunger which is part of the draft control spring assembly (upper 3 point linkage), so it won't affect anything I need to do while rebuilding the engine. While I was there, I also decided to buy a comprehensive overhaul kit for my Marvel Schebler carburetor.

Before I begin overhauling the engine, I need to order a few special tools, so I'll be completing some of the smaller tasks (oil pump, carburetor, generator, steering box, etc...) first.

 

[Mike476]

I used the same paint on mine some time ago, it covers well and has proven to be very durable.

For your carb kit Massey, are the tips of your needles brass or are they a rubber compound tip, the kit I ordered some time ago had them in it so I stuck with the originals, couldn't get them to seat well.

 

[Soundguy]

good that you got the big rebuild kit on the carb. they are worth it

 

[MasseyWV]

For your carb kit Massey, are the tips of your needles brass or are they a rubber compound tip, the kit I ordered some time ago had them in it so I stuck with the originals, couldn't get them to seat well.

All the needle valves have metal tips. However, the float valve does have a black rubber (viton?) tip. The original float valve is metal and is in very good condition so I may consider using it if it seems to seal properly.

While looking over the carburetor and comparing various original parts to the new ones to make sure I had everything needed, I realized that I forgot to remove the bowl drain plug. I thought the slotted plug would be easy to remove using a large screwdriver, but that was not to be the case. Ultimately, I had to resort to heating the lower half of the carburetor body (bowl) to about 300-400 degrees using my mapp gas torch, then using Vise-Grips to get it out. The steel plug was mostly destroyed during the removal process, but I'd much rather have a brass plug with a hex head fitting for easy removal during future maintenance. Fortunately, brass plugs of the type I need are cheap and commonly available at just about any hardware store. Curiously, the primer (Rustoleum Red Oxide) wasn't really harmed, despite moving a very hot torch flame over it for several minutes. Regardless, I plan to sand it and give it another quick coat of primer.

 

[Mike476]

All the needle valves have metal tips. However, the float valve does have a black rubber (viton?) tip. The original float valve is metal and is in very good condition so I may consider using it if it seems to seal properly.

It was a few years ago I'd rebuilt mine now, I do remember having torn it apart twice thinking despite an extensive cleaning I might have had a small piece of debris I'd missed, the third time I installed the original and solved the issue. After researching it further I realized the problem is not uncommon and finding a kit with all brass tips seemed next to impossible.

 

[MasseyWV]

I've been going over everything included in the engine kit to make sure it was all there and that nothing was damaged, but when I came across the replacement connecting rod bushings something occurred to me, the very small tolerances required (.0004) are beyond my capabilities to machine at home. The existing connecting rod bushings are in very good shape and I could risk reusing them, but I'm not certain that's something I want to do. If I replace the bushings, I'll have to have a machine shop do it because purchasing the tools (Example: Sunnen rod hone) necessary to machine such tight tolerances are more expensive than I can afford, especially for a single engine rebuild.

 

[Soundguy]

if you have to polish any seats vs replacing.. or have to fit metal needles to new seats.. a lil toothpast or valve grind compound will help, followed by rubbing or buffing compound...

 

[MasseyWV]

if you have to polish any seats vs replacing.. or have to fit metal needles to new seats.. a lil toothpast or valve grind compound will help, followed by rubbing or buffing compound...

Absolutely, and the same thing can be done to the oil pump relief valve to make it seat better. A cheap way to make rubbing or buffing compound is to use a piece of metal on fine sandpaper (around 400-600 grit) with some WD-40 to make a thin paste. It works like a charm and doesn't cost a dime to make, if you have the right sandpaper and WD-40. Grinding compound can be made using coarser sandpaper, but instead of WD-40, use light grease.

 

[MasseyWV]

Today, I finished cleaning and sanding parts the radiator and gave it a coat of primer. Note that I only primed the outer frame and upper/lower tanks because I didn't want too much paint buildup on the fins for better heat transfer. I also had to clean out the overflow tube and solder it back to the radiator frame. After the primer has dried, I'll paint the entire radiator black to match the original color. Many people think that painting a radiator should not be done, but they are painted from the factory which makes them look nice and prevents corrosion. Heat transfer is not affected enough to make any real difference, as long as one doesn't get carried away and apply too much paint.