My 1966 Massey 135 Tractor (Pics)

[MasseyWV]

Here are some pictures of my tractor's Continental Z-145 engine with the valve cover removed.

Note the last picture, which shows one of the spring retainers/washers at each end of the rocker arm assembly that are held in place by cotter pins. As it turns out, both cotter pins had failed, allowing the washers to come off the end of the shaft. The resting place of one of the washers is visible in the first picture, and the other one was found stuck to the valve cover.

Fortunately, there appears to have been no damage caused by the loose washers, and I'm not concerned about the missing cotter pins which are either laying at the bottom of the oil pan or were sucked into the oil filter long ago.

[MasseyWV]

Today, I made a trip to a local Massey Ferguson dealer, and purchased a number of different parts, including valve seals, assorted gaskets, nuts/bolts, and a new "replacement" hood latch to replace the ugly monkey-rigged hood latch that's on it. I also bought some stabilizer bars and a handful of spring pins.

Another interesting item I purchased for just $10, was an original owners manual for the Massey 135. I had already bought a reproduction of the owners manual, but couldn't resist the opportunity of owning an original.

After finally receiving the shop manual, I was able to confirm that the Continental Z-145 4 cylinder gasoline engine only has valve seals on the intake valves, but I purchased two sets of valve seals so I could also place them on the exhaust valves if desired.

[flusher]

Yep, that's a 135 alright. Looks nice. My 1964 MF135 diesel deluxe with multipower was in a lot rougher condition when I bought in about 6 years ago.

Have fun

[MasseyWV]

Yep, that's a 135 alright. Looks nice. My 1964 MF135 diesel deluxe with multipower was in a lot rougher condition when I bought in about 6 years ago.

Have fun

Unfortunately, parts of it were a little rougher than I had hoped, but I was anticipating some surprises, which only goes with the territory.

After closer inspection, I discovered that the top half of the engine has a number of problems, likely caused by excessive valve lash which appears to have never been adjusted. It has bad valve seals, worn valve guides, and it needs a new rocker shaft and rocker bushings. As a result, I've decided to pull the head and give it a full valve job.

While removing parts, in preparation to remove the head, I also discovered that the intake/exhaust manifold bolts were all semi-loose, and the exhaust manifold gasket was shot.

Fortunately, rebuilding the entire engine was always part of my plan, I'm just doing the top half a bit sooner than planned.

[flusher]

Unfortunately, parts of it were a little rougher than I had hoped, but I was anticipating some surprises, which only goes with the territory.

After closer inspection, I discovered that the top half of the engine has a number of problems, likely caused by excessive valve lash which appears to have never been adjusted. It has bad valve seals, worn valve guides, and it needs a new rocker shaft and rocker bushings. As a result, I've decided to pull the head and give it a full valve job.

While removing parts, in preparation to remove the head, I also discovered that the intake/exhaust manifold bolts were all semi-loose, and the exhaust manifold gasket was shot.

Fortunately, rebuilding the entire engine was always part of my plan, I'm just doing the top half a bit sooner than planned.

BTDT--bought a 1948 Farmall Cub last year. Low compression so I reseated the valves. Not much improvement so I pulled the engine. Found that one of the flanges on the front of the block that carries the bolster had completely cracked off the block. So the block is scrap. Now pondering options--find another Cub, buy a new block, or buy a rebuilt engine-short block configuration. Decisions, decisions.

I had better luck with a 1964 MF135 diesel deluxe with multipower that I bought about 6 years ago. Got it cleaned up and working real well. It's in my shop now with clutch problems and a few oil leaks. It's on my to-do list once I get several other tractor projects finished--hope I last long enough.

[The kid]

Today I put the old girl through her paces and she performed very well. I started at about 10 AM this morning and didn't stop until about an hour ago.

First, I graded my gravel driveway using the box blade and it's now smoother than it's been in years. After dropping the rippers and making a few passes, I was able to pull up so much gravel that I won't have to have gravel delivered as soon as I had originally thought. As many on TBN have said, the key to using a box blade on a gravel driveway is adjusting the top link. Tighten the top link for the rippers and loosen it for the blade, or somewhere in between, depending on the task desired. It's easy as pie, once you get the hang of it.

Next, I completed a large part of my earth moving project in the back yard. Again, the box blade was extremely handy to have, and that thing can move some dirt. The trick is to use the rippers to break up the packed soil and sod, then use the blade to move the soil.

It's been a long but productive day. I am wore out.

Nice find. I was torn between a a Ford 9N or a Ferguson 135. I chose the later. Is your Tach and all the gauges working?

Be sure to get you a pair of stablizer bars to put on the back. I bought a pair at Tractor Supply for around $39 each. They are adjustable. I beielve the point to point is around 31". No one in my area had any at that length, even the local MF dealership. Good luck with your tractor. Robert

[MasseyWV]

I removed and disassembled the rocker asembly. As expected, the rocker bushings and rocker shaft are heavily worn, probably because the valve lash was allowed to go without adjustment for too long.





Also, I removed the head and have begun soaking the valve ports in carb cleaner to remove the accumulated carbon deposits caused by burning excessive oil. After pouring the carb cleaner in the valve ports, I discovered that 3 valves are leaking, probably because the valve guides are worn beyond tolerances, causing the valve seats to wear unevenly.

Fortunately, the cylinder walls are in great shape, and only show minimal signs of wear, indlcated by a very slight ridge at the top of the cylinder. No noticable scratches or score marks are present.

[frankroberts]

It's amazing that some of these old tractors continue to run after being neglected for so long.

I'm enjoying your project.

frank

[MasseyWV]

Using carb cleaner, I've managed to get most of the gunk and carbon off the head, and have it sitting overnight with the remaining carb cleaner sludge that was formed as I scrubbed it with the wire brush. I've found that by doing this, the head will usually come completely clean after a quick wash with gasoline to rinse off any remaining gunk and sludge.

While I've got the head off the tractor, I wonder if it would be worth the time to port and polish the intake and exhaust ports? The surfaces are pretty rough, so I think it may be worth my time to at least smooth them out, if not polish them.

[MasseyWV]

After getting the cylinder head stripped and cleaned, I've begun cleaning and sandblasting all the various parts I've removed, in preparation for painting them prior to reassembly. At first glance, it doesn't look like the Massey 135 has a lot of parts, until you start cleaning and sandblasting them.