My 1966 Massey 135 Tractor (Pics)

[MasseyWV]

Thanks, now I have to get in and check specs out on everything. There is only a slight lip on cylinders and I am wondering if pistons mic fine and cylinder mics fine if I should just get new rings and such. What are you doing to your lower end, I can't remember? It would save me some money but I also think if I got it this torn down if its just as well to start new and know I have not overlooked anything?

For my engine rebuild, I decided to replace everything except the crankshaft, camshaft, and connecting rods... new pistons, rings, cylinder sleeves, main/rod bearings, the works.

Since you're tearing your engine down, I'd suggest considering the possibility of replacing the cylinder sleeves, pistons, rings, and main/rod bearings at the very least. In addition, I'd consider giving it a valve job too, because it's almost a certainty that the valve guides are worn beyond tolerances.

 

[Forester Massey]

I am going to buy a micrometer and get the oil pan off and have a ball measuring everything. I may be able to post tomorrow what I have found. Also, and I may figure this out, does the cam remove with little trouble?

 

[MasseyWV]

I am going to buy a micrometer and get the oil pan off and have a ball measuring everything. I may be able to post tomorrow what I have found. Also, and I may figure this out, does the cam remove with little trouble?

The camshaft isn't difficult to remove but it does require some care to prevent damaging it. There are two small bolts holding a camshaft retaining plate behind the main gear which all have to be removed. The large nut holding the gear in place is torqued rather tightly and is easier to remove using an impact gun.

I don't recall if you mentioned purchasing one, but do you have a service manual? If not, I strongly advise getting one ASAP because there is much information it contains that you will need.

 

[Forester Massey]

I do have the shop manual. I got the oil pan off and the pistons out. You may have been able to tell that I was waffling on getting the comprehensive kit or just new rings etc. The cylinders did not seem too bad. Also, once I took the head out and saw it had a blown head gasket, it caused me to reconsider.

That is until I took off the oil pan. I scraped a 1/4 of sludge off the bottom of the pan. That confirmed that I need to replace all. I did mic the crankshaft and it was within spec-I think. I am not completely sure I am reading the mic correctly. It did not fit over the shaft at the lower spec (1.9365) but did just slightly snug on the higher number (1.9375). These are the crank journals only. I don't have main seals off yet. Crank does not look perfectly smooth but close. I think I will show it to someone to advise me. I really hope it passes as I don't want to replace it if possible.

Pistons showing some scuffing on cylinders 3 and 4 where head gasket was leaking. Oil rings stuck but other rings were free.

I also noticed the exhaust manifold is cracked. Its hairline but some gas does escape. Can it be sealed or is that a waste?

 

[MasseyWV]

I do have the shop manual. I got the oil pan off and the pistons out. You may have been able to tell that I was waffling on getting the comprehensive kit or just new rings etc. The cylinders did not seem too bad. Also, once I took the head out and saw it had a blown head gasket, it caused me to reconsider.

That is until I took off the oil pan. I scraped a 1/4 of sludge off the bottom of the pan. That confirmed that I need to replace all. I did mic the crankshaft and it was within spec-I think. I am not completely sure I am reading the mic correctly. It did not fit over the shaft at the lower spec (1.9365) but did just slightly snug on the higher number (1.9375). These are the crank journals only. I don't have main seals off yet. Crank does not look perfectly smooth but close. I think I will show it to someone to advise me. I really hope it passes as I don't want to replace it if possible.

Pistons showing some scuffing on cylinders 3 and 4 where head gasket was leaking. Oil rings stuck but other rings were free.

I also noticed the exhaust manifold is cracked. Its hairline but some gas does escape. Can it be sealed or is that a waste?

Antifreeze and/or water mixing with engine oil can cause accelerated wear on internal engine components so I agree that it's a good idea to replace everything while you have it torn down. Fortunately, the blown head gasket seems to explain the milky oil, thus reducing the likelyhood that the block is cracked, but you should still check it regardless.

Checking a crankshaft has to be done a certain way so it might be a good idea to have a machine shop mic it for you. To do it right, one has to check for both taper and roundness by measuring near both edges of each bearing journal on two or more different planes and recording the results. It's not the most accurate method available but it's generally adequate. The condition of the old main and rod bearings will also tell a lot about the condition of the crankshaft. One also has to check the crankshaft (and block) for warpage which involves completely different methods.

A cracked manifold can be welded but in my experience they usually crack again in a relatively short period of time. Trying to seal a cracked manifold would probably be a waste of time, but one can use JB weld as a temporary repair. In my opinion, replacing the manifold is the best option, where a new manifold should cost between 150-200 dollars and a used one should cost somewhat less. A new manifold would be my preference but should you decide to look for a used one, keep in mind that manifolds from the Continental Z-120, Z-129, Z-134 and Z-145 gasoline engines should work. There are many differences in these engines but they all share many of the same parts, including the manifold.

 

[Forester Massey]

I am ready to pull the crank out but before I do I wanted to be clear on some timing between the crank, flywheel and camshaft. I know there are timing marks on the crank and flywheel to be aligned. However, there is no mark on the camshaft gear. I have not found anything in the shop manual that speaks to it-at least not yet.

Does it matter how the camshaft is put in? I imagine it does. What can you tell me?

 

[murphy1244]

Massey WV, You have seem to have lost your thread.

 

[MasseyWV]

Massey WV, You have seem to have lost your thread.

Not at all. I created this thread to help people and that's precisely what I'm doing. When I have something to post about my restoration progress, I'll post it.

I am ready to pull the crank out but before I do I wanted to be clear on some timing between the crank, flywheel and camshaft. I know there are timing marks on the crank and flywheel to be aligned. However, there is no mark on the camshaft gear. I have not found anything in the shop manual that speaks to it-at least not yet.

Does it matter how the camshaft is put in? I imagine it does. What can you tell me?

Absolutely, the positionong of the camshaft is critical. However it's almost impossible to get it wrong. There should be two dots on the camshaft gear and a single dot on the crankshaft gear. To time the camshaft to the crankshaft, the single inner dot (crankshaft) has to go between the two outer dots (camshaft). Both gears are aligned on the crankshaft and camshaft by woodruff keys so they can't be misaligned.

If you look closely at the image below, you should see two dots on the camshaft gear at roughly the 11 o'clock position. The dot on the crankshaft gear is hidden in the shadow.

 

[Forester Massey]

O.K. Massey WV I have figured it out. I was thinking the small gear was the camshaft gear and its actually the power steering pump gear. The big gear is camshaft gear and bottom is crank gear.

I took the radiator into a radiator shop to have checked out. Somehow the fan got pushed into the radiator or more likely the other way around and cut one or more holes. I hope it can be salvaged.

 

[MasseyLady]

Massey WV, hubby and I also have a a MF135 tractor with the Z-134 engine that he is tearing down. Hubby was wanting to know your opinion on over sized pistons and cylinders as replacement for this engine. Is that a wise option that is even available or would it cause problems down the road? We too are looking at a complete rebuild for our 135, much like Forester Massey's tractor, ours also has a blown head gasket. We find it interesting that the blown head gasket is in the same area as Forester's tractor. But hubby hasn't gotten to the point of pulling the pistons, cam and crankshaft off yet, but has removed the head, timing gear cover and oil pan.

Also Massey, our MF150 diesel and MF135 gas, both built in 1967, particularly the 150 has a lot of gray and red paint over spray from a former owners bad unmasked paint job. Being new Massey owners are there any detailed pictures or info available that shows exactly where the red, gray or any other possible colors that were used on Massey tractors of this particular year?

Thanks MasseyWV and welcome Forester Massey to the forum.

:tractor:--MasseyLady