My 1966 Massey 135 Tractor (Pics)

[MasseyWV]

Shaft most likely has rusty threads in yoke assy, when new will turn with a screwdriver in pin slot. I have in past welded a nut to shaft end inside cup. Use a socket, heat up thread area and hopefully unscrew shaft from yoke. When apart clean all threads so it turns freely with a screwdriver, when happy with parts fit remove welded nut by grinding it off shaft end. Then replace boot, adjust spring tension until will just turn with hand pressure, install pin and end plug. This has worked well several times in years past, otherwise new parts are needed.

I did as you suggested and tried welding a nut to the end of the shaft inside the cup, but the clevis still wouldn't unscrew, it was just too tight.

However, your suggestion did spark an idea that finally enabled me to disassemble the draft control spring assembly. I welded the outer edge of the plunger to the cup and heated the threaded portion of the clevis until it was really hot, then used a pipe wrench on the outer surface of the cup, and the end of a bar inserted through the holes in the clevis to apply enough force to break the rust on the threads of the plunger. Even then, it required a considerable amount of force to turn, much more than could ever have been applied using any other methods that were tried.

In the end, it cost me a plunger and cup, but the results will be worth it, especially being able to replace the rubber boot.

 

[Dieseltech]

I had to do that once too. Helps to get yoke thread area really hot with a torch when threads are really rusty.

 

[MasseyWV]

I had to do that once too. Helps to get yoke thread area really hot with a torch when threads are really rusty.

I forgot to mention it, but after welding the plunger to the cup, I heated the threaded portion of the clevis until it was really hot, and still had to use a considerable amount of force to get it to budge. The funny thing is that the whole assembly (including the threads) wasn't really very rusty at all, but it doesn't take much rust to make removal a chore.

 

[MasseyWV]

Here are a few more pictures of my progress.

 

[flusher]

Your tranny looks pretty clean. How about the shifter rails? Are the detents working correctly? Right now I'm replacing the ball and spring detents on my 1948 Farmall Cub tranny. No big deal--just need to be careful when removing and installing the springs--unless restrained they'll pop out and fly all over the shop.

Keep on truckin':thumbsup:

 

[MasseyWV]

Your tranny looks pretty clean. How about the shifter rails? Are the detents working correctly?

Other than removing the steering box so I could clean it, I haven't had time to inspect the transmission yet. It shifted fine and didn't make any unusual noises, so I'm fairly confident that everything will be ok. Right now, I have the engine block and transmission opening covered so that dust and debris can't enter, but soon I'll take the cover off to inspect everything closely.

If you zoom in on the picture of the transmission opening gasket surface area, on the right hand side, below where the steering box mounts, you'll see an area about 3 inches long that's beginning to rust from water infiltration. Thankfully, the fluid appears to be clean, so I can get some use out of it before I tear into the remainder of it for the full restoration which is to follow. Things like this are why I plan to eventually replace all gaskets and seals.

 

[MasseyWV]

I found this Massey at an older garage where I have my truck serviced. I own a 2006 MF 1533, so I snapped these shots to show my kids how things have changed. Any idea on the year of this one??

I meant to say this earlier, but that's a very nice looking Massey 35 tractor. With the exception of the engine and sheet metal, most of it is nearly identical to my Massey 135. Since it's a gas model, I estimate it was made between 1961 and 1964. The gasoline engine was available after 1961. Do you know the serial number? If so, you can use it to determine the exact year of production.

1960: 204181 (USA)
1961: 211071 (USA)
1962: 222207 (USA)
1963: 235123 (USA)
1964: 247605 (USA)

TractorData.com Massey Ferguson 35 tractor information

 

[MasseyWV]

I'm following. I fixed up my old MF 50 about 5-6 years ago. It's now been sold to make room for my MF 230. My 50 project was mostly cosmetic. I'm not so brave as you to tear into the mechanical.

You did a great job on it. The mechanical items aren't that bad, but they do require patience and attention to detail. Fortunately, despite never having worked on a tractor, I do have more than 30 years experience with repairing and restoring automobiles to draw from.

 

[MasseyWV]

Last night, I discovered that my Massey 135 tractor has electroluminescent gauges. Rather than being illuminated by traditional light bulbs, they are illuminated by electroluminescence. The gauges are composed of laminated layers of material which glow when a high-voltage alternating current is applied. It's difficult to explain how it works, so here is a link for a better description.

Electroluminescence - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

All of the gauges work, except for the generator (amps) and water temperature. When illuminated, they have a soft green glow that looks really cool at night. However, I suspect that finding replacement OEM gauges (new or used) of the same type may be difficult and/or expensive, so I am considering the possibility of replacing them all with new ones. However, I'd like to have accurate hours showing on the tach so that could create a complication if I decide to replace them all. I'll try to take a picture of one of them later.

Here's a picture of my tractor's electroilluminescent tachometer. The camera I was using had difficulty focusing on it so the picture doesn't do it justice. It looks really cool.

The electroluminescent gauges are powered by a module that takes 12 volts DC and converts it to 200 volts AC at 250 cycles per second. Here is a picture of the module.

 

[The kid]

My tach was dead and disconnected when i bought the tractor. I decided to upgrade to an alterator with a tach drive that will drive a tach in a clockwise rotation. The tack that was in mine looks like this one. It also has a small 12v bulb with an easy connectorless wiring hookup. I'm fixing to replace all the sheetmetal and found a supplier to beats the pants off anything on eBay.

Where did you find a glow in the dark tach?

BTW on the UK versions there was a panel light you could mount on the dash to iluminate any non iluminated switches. Kinda reminds me of a license tag lamp fitting.