Refurbishing my Z145 135

   / Refurbishing my Z145 135 #181  
them 135 are hard to beat i bout my tractor cheep wish i would have put money with what i had and got a mf .i and d up buying a imt 560 it does have the perkins 203 in it and its been a work hores its just hard to find parts for it .but u all keep up the good work i really injoy looking at the real american tractors not what they have to day
 
   / Refurbishing my Z145 135
  • Thread Starter
#182  
Old Sally back on the ground

I decided it was time to put old Sally back on the ground. I got the rims finished. I'm going to put the second coat of paint on the sheet metal in the next day or two depending on the weather. Nice today with a high of 83. I must say, just the painted wheels makes look fresh. Rims are Silver Mist shot with an airbrush. I added hardener and it gave the silver a nice sheen. I got a big problem with the Control Spring Retainer as I attempt to replace the dust boot. I show some pictures in the next set.

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   / Refurbishing my Z145 135
  • Thread Starter
#183  
Replacing the Hydraulic Cover Lift rear boot

This has become a larger than life challenge to get this rusted booger out. I need some suggestions. Shona, I'ved followed your directions to the letter then hit the wall as you thought I might.

There are two 9mm hex bolts that hold together the lift rocker to the lift body. That posed a problem. 9mm hex are not that common. They are skipped in sets and you have to order what you need. I bout a 9mm hex on a 3/8 drive. Problem is the hex in too long when you put it on a ratchet.

So I inprovised and use a 9mm boxed wrench on it to jam inside while I loosened the nut. Success. Lost one nut due to rounding of threads that where tight. Yes I used plenty of rust cutter. Not a show stopper just a stop at the hardware store.

Pulled the boot off and there was nothing but rust staring at me. Popped out the rubber plug. Destroyed it getting it out. This revealed the end of the Plunger that's machined in a cross on the end. This suppose to allow you to use a large screwdriver and actually unscrew the plunger from the Clevis.. (wishful thinking) There suppose to be a rolled pin that is pressed in vertically in the machined vertical groove. I see it but don't see evidence of it on the outside of the Link Rocker. I actually bent a a steel punch hammering on what I thought was the pin. Nadda. You'll see the pin in the picture. Now all this depends on getting the Control Spring Retainer unscrewed. I notched the rim as suggested and commence to hammering trying to shake it loose in either direction. Frozen solid. I got out my torch and got it paint bubbling hot and started hammering again. Nadda. I am stuck. I know I'm going to need a new retainer. and will sacrifice the plunger if needed.

What now? Removing the lift cover and attack it from inside. I'm all ears and looking for some solid advice. This is one of those occasions that's not covered in the manuals.. :confused3: Sending out an S.O.S.

Untill I get the plunger out I don't know what size to order. The book shows two. Any and all help will be humbly appreciated. -robert

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Here you can see down the throat of the end of the plunger that is machined in a cross to allow a screwdriver to unscrew it. (yeah right) There also appears to be a pin vertically in it. Is this the roll pin that must be removed.. Is this knocked out from the bottom or top. I did notice two holes that where at a 45 degree visible on both sides. :confused3:
 
   / Refurbishing my Z145 135 #184  
Howdy Kid,

Thanks for showing me what I have to look forward to. From what I can see there is still paint debris still around it that may be keeping penetrating oil from going in. I'm afraid to go look at mine now. I would clean it up some and keep putting penetrating oil on it then attack it from both sides, will take two people.

v/r

Mike
 
   / Refurbishing my Z145 135
  • Thread Starter
#185  
Howdy Kid,

Thanks for showing me what I have to look forward to. From what I can see there is still paint debris still around it that may be keeping penetrating oil from going in. I'm afraid to go look at mine now. I would clean it up some and keep putting penetrating oil on it then attack it from both sides, will take two people.

v/r

Mike
Hi Mike. The last picture in the group shows I cleaned around the retainer. I'm using PB Blaster in it. I'm still trying to verify that roll pin that needs to be removed to able to seperate the retainer ring from the plunger. I'll get the retainer ring out, if I have to cut it out with a cold chisel.
 
   / Refurbishing my Z145 135
  • Thread Starter
#186  
Replacing the Hydraulic Cover Lift rear Boot (part 2)

After all afternoon yesterday banging on the retaining ring I have it a good shot of PB Blaster and called it a night. Today I went and bought a 12" cold chisel that's long enough to do some serious banging. After much exercise and more Blaster the retainer ring finally started to move.. I slowly spun it off with chisel and hammer. I couldn't get the roll pin out of the clevis. Broke two drill bits. Screw it. I'll replace all of it.

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I'm going to replace this entire assembly.

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What are these grease turds.. :laughing:

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Nice and tidy inside.

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EDIT: A big shoutout to my man down under. Thanks Hutch, for your suggestions/instructions. :thumbsup:
 
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   / Refurbishing my Z145 135 #187  
Hey kid.....You know the pic with the rear tires they are on the wrong side. tread is directional...just saying nice work...
 
   / Refurbishing my Z145 135
  • Thread Starter
#188  
Hey kid.....You know the pic with the rear tires they are on the wrong side. tread is directional...just saying nice work...
You are correct. I didn't notice till yesterday when I was pulling the draft lift spring from the rear.. They're not filled so it's no big deal to swap. Sharp eye you got. I was in a hurry when I slapped the one and doing it by myself. You reckon it would make me spin in the circle. :D.
 
   / Refurbishing my Z145 135
  • Thread Starter
#189  
Replacing the Hydraulic Cover Lift rear Boot (part 3)

The plunger and clevis is rusted solid. I had to take a hack saw to the plunger in order to seperate it from the spring (pricey item). I applied a torch to the clevis at the cut plunger shaft for over five minutes and with a pipe wrench it wouldn't budge. So more salvage. I had to drill out the 5/32 roll pin because it was rusted so bad. There could be remants of it left which is probably why I can't break the two loose. So I decided to replace them both.

This is the interesting part. I called about five dealers somewhat local to me (agco dealers MF) to get prices on the replacement parts I needed.

The plunger listed as # 886348M2, they wanted $72 for it. $50.83 for the plunger seat. :shocked: I thought no way.. I priced a rubber plug that keeps water out of the end of the plunger you can see at the end of the clevis.. (rubber plug) they quoted 26.20 :shocked:

I've been looking around on the net and there is obviously more companies who supply these parts. I found out that Sparex had the parts I needed for much much less. :thumbsup:

Plunger 1.870" version (agco) 72.60 (sparex) 19.00 s.3351
Plunger seat 1.875" version (agco) 50.83 (sparex) 11.00 s.42010
Retainer nut (agco) 28.43 (sparex) 13.00 s.41369
Clevis (screws to Plunger) (agco)38.78 (sparex) 28.00 s.41365

Big difference is prices. I wonder how long Sparex will go before they jack up thier prices, since they are now owned by Agco. Anyway I've included the sparex parts number that you can use when you order parts for a project like this.

Here's a few pictures as I try to seperate the pieces.

Now I'll wait for shipments


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   / Refurbishing my Z145 135 #190  
I just reinstalled my rears myself on my MF35 had to swap innners and outers to bring the spacing in after removal of the loader. Mine are loaded 14.9-24 520 lbs plus the rim each so It was fresh in my mind IMG00423-20121024-1018.jpg
 
 
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