murphy1244
Epic Contributor
- Joined
- Nov 25, 2011
- Messages
- 20,038
- Location
- Ohio
- Tractor
- Kubota 1120 RTV Kioti DK-40, MF-135, Ventrac 4500Y
This one was a 4 door, why would anyone want to customize a sedan is beyond me.
Refurbishing my Z145 135
- Thread starter The kid
- Start date
This one was a 4 door, why would anyone want to customize a sedan is beyond me.
OP
The kid
Elite Member
- Joined
- Apr 25, 2012
- Messages
- 4,132
- Location
- Middle Tennessee
- Tractor
- 1965 135 gasser, 1967 135 diesel
What type of car was it?
30's and 40's sedans are making a come back in popularity. The 1937 Studebaker Dictator is a beautiful car. I saw one at a Studebaker car show in Murfreesboro Tn and it was stunning with it's suicide doors.
murphy1244
Epic Contributor
- Joined
- Nov 25, 2011
- Messages
- 20,038
- Location
- Ohio
- Tractor
- Kubota 1120 RTV Kioti DK-40, MF-135, Ventrac 4500Y
A 1940's Studebaker.with suicide doors
OP
The kid
Elite Member
- Joined
- Apr 25, 2012
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- 4,132
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- Middle Tennessee
- Tractor
- 1965 135 gasser, 1967 135 diesel
I've seen a few of those done real nice. Not my preferred body style though. But they are very rare.
murphy1244
Epic Contributor
- Joined
- Nov 25, 2011
- Messages
- 20,038
- Location
- Ohio
- Tractor
- Kubota 1120 RTV Kioti DK-40, MF-135, Ventrac 4500Y
The car after that was a 39 Bentley.
Lava Rancher
Silver Member
- Joined
- Jun 15, 2012
- Messages
- 106
- Location
- Siskiyou Co., California
- Tractor
- Massey 135 Multipower / Z145
I'm a big fan of 20s and 30s sedans. REO Royale is a favorite of mine. I also love a full size bathtub NASH. Rodding a Stude is kind of sad but really, nobody wants a stock one. I located a 28 Franklin touring car a few months ago. Both sets of doors are suicide. Lovely car but a bit beyond reasonable to bring back.
murphy1244
Epic Contributor
- Joined
- Nov 25, 2011
- Messages
- 20,038
- Location
- Ohio
- Tractor
- Kubota 1120 RTV Kioti DK-40, MF-135, Ventrac 4500Y
The Bentley we did was made out of 3 cars.
OP
The kid
Elite Member
- Joined
- Apr 25, 2012
- Messages
- 4,132
- Location
- Middle Tennessee
- Tractor
- 1965 135 gasser, 1967 135 diesel
I just looked at a few pictures of those. beautiful car. I agree.
OP
The kid
Elite Member
- Joined
- Apr 25, 2012
- Messages
- 4,132
- Location
- Middle Tennessee
- Tractor
- 1965 135 gasser, 1967 135 diesel
Little parts are important too..
Little parts can get overlooked when restoring an old classic back to it's orginal look. Sometimes you don't know something is missing till later after you've driver it awhile. One of those imports little parts are the little rubber bumpers that go between the hood sides and hood. That go on the gauge assembly where the hood touches it. Nosecone has a couple. Don't forget the the front grill door. The bumpers not only keep it from rattling but keep it secure so as to not have to put a lot of pressure on the door when tightening the door locking knob.
After market parts don't always fit perfectly, so one has to make due with what you have. The rubber tips simply pull into a hole till they lock in place. If the tip is too small they will easily pull back out. I used a little bit of rubber cement will keep them from comming lose. The bumpers are test fitted first. If the sheetmetal rides too high, you have take a razor blade and trim the thickness to make the parts mate correctly. The cost of these little rattle stoppers range anywhere from 50 cents to $1.99 depending where you buy. Your 135 needs twelve so get extras for later.
Massey Ferguson part # 180673M1
View attachment 307226
Here's another tiny part that can get overlooked but serves a very important purpose in monitoring your tractors health. Your tractor has two seperate oil supplies, for the main drivetrain. Engine oil and transmission oil. The clutch is isolated between these two storage cavities. Between the two just behind the bolts that holds the motor to the tranny is a tiny hole on the bottom where it is sorta bell shaped. That tiny hole is a weep hole to allow drainage from either cavities of oil thru a falty bearing. If that hole every gets clogged and you have a leak. Guess where the oil goes? Nowhere right. What is between those two cavities? The clutch right. So that tiny hole is very important. I noticed on my tractor the cotter pin was missing. I didn't know if it was put in from the inside or outside. I just knew it was missing and needed to replace it. There is no way to replace they pin without removing a component off the tractor to gain access to the inside. Here's what I came up with as a simple solution.
Take two pair of needle nose pliers and shape the cotter pin (get the proper size for the hole) and shape it so one side acts as a spring. Then simply tap it into the hole and your done. The cotter key keeps the hole clear and allows oil to drip off the tip indicating a leak inside. Simple but effective. I used a 5/32 X 1 1/2" cotter pin.
-robert
View attachment 307227
Little parts can get overlooked when restoring an old classic back to it's orginal look. Sometimes you don't know something is missing till later after you've driver it awhile. One of those imports little parts are the little rubber bumpers that go between the hood sides and hood. That go on the gauge assembly where the hood touches it. Nosecone has a couple. Don't forget the the front grill door. The bumpers not only keep it from rattling but keep it secure so as to not have to put a lot of pressure on the door when tightening the door locking knob.
After market parts don't always fit perfectly, so one has to make due with what you have. The rubber tips simply pull into a hole till they lock in place. If the tip is too small they will easily pull back out. I used a little bit of rubber cement will keep them from comming lose. The bumpers are test fitted first. If the sheetmetal rides too high, you have take a razor blade and trim the thickness to make the parts mate correctly. The cost of these little rattle stoppers range anywhere from 50 cents to $1.99 depending where you buy. Your 135 needs twelve so get extras for later.
Massey Ferguson part # 180673M1
View attachment 307226
Here's another tiny part that can get overlooked but serves a very important purpose in monitoring your tractors health. Your tractor has two seperate oil supplies, for the main drivetrain. Engine oil and transmission oil. The clutch is isolated between these two storage cavities. Between the two just behind the bolts that holds the motor to the tranny is a tiny hole on the bottom where it is sorta bell shaped. That tiny hole is a weep hole to allow drainage from either cavities of oil thru a falty bearing. If that hole every gets clogged and you have a leak. Guess where the oil goes? Nowhere right. What is between those two cavities? The clutch right. So that tiny hole is very important. I noticed on my tractor the cotter pin was missing. I didn't know if it was put in from the inside or outside. I just knew it was missing and needed to replace it. There is no way to replace they pin without removing a component off the tractor to gain access to the inside. Here's what I came up with as a simple solution.
Take two pair of needle nose pliers and shape the cotter pin (get the proper size for the hole) and shape it so one side acts as a spring. Then simply tap it into the hole and your done. The cotter key keeps the hole clear and allows oil to drip off the tip indicating a leak inside. Simple but effective. I used a 5/32 X 1 1/2" cotter pin.
-robert
View attachment 307227
DB Pilot
Gold Member
- Joined
- Feb 1, 2013
- Messages
- 340
- Location
- SW, New York
- Tractor
- Case Farmall 65A, L3800 Kubota, BX2200 Kubota
Hi Kid, No pictures as yet but will get some on my thread, don't know when. I have a few acres in concord grapes so I have been trimming those when we get a break in the weather. Have some posts to set and wire to string when the trimming gets done. Those jobs must be done before they start to bud. One of the pictures shows the grapes in the background.
I really want to get the tractor to the house where I can pressure wash it and degrease some. But I am anxious to see the the hood and fenders back on also. I will put them on for pictures before I start the brakes. Also want the tool box moved from next to the seat to the side as it is in the way by the seat. I will be in Michigan last week of March but I know that the next sunny dry day after that I will have the tractor out for pictures.
I have the original shift pattern plate. I will get a picture of that today. It is divided into 12 sections. It has raised areas that were white against a black background. I have been trying to paint it without success. I tried to make a stencil but failed that and also tried free hand painting, not good at all. the lines are 1/16". Just mentioned it as you had some ideas about the David Brown Hood ornament. Wait for the picture on my thread and It will make it clear as to what I am dealing with.
DB Pilot
I really want to get the tractor to the house where I can pressure wash it and degrease some. But I am anxious to see the the hood and fenders back on also. I will put them on for pictures before I start the brakes. Also want the tool box moved from next to the seat to the side as it is in the way by the seat. I will be in Michigan last week of March but I know that the next sunny dry day after that I will have the tractor out for pictures.
I have the original shift pattern plate. I will get a picture of that today. It is divided into 12 sections. It has raised areas that were white against a black background. I have been trying to paint it without success. I tried to make a stencil but failed that and also tried free hand painting, not good at all. the lines are 1/16". Just mentioned it as you had some ideas about the David Brown Hood ornament. Wait for the picture on my thread and It will make it clear as to what I am dealing with.
DB Pilot