Refurbishing my Z145 135

   / Refurbishing my Z145 135
  • Thread Starter
#291  
Distributor Problem

I had mentioned earlier I found the tension springs on the centrifugal weights had came off and made some nasty grooves in the wall of my distributor. I found out why. It appears who ever did an earlier tune up put too long a screw in that holds the points in place. Thus the long screw sheered the springs underneath it making a mess. I toll a hacksaw and cut it off so as to clear the springs as it should. Later this year I will convert it over to a Petronix pointless system. I bought the springs from Summitt. It came as three pair. Light, Medium, and Strong. I'm sure the timing is off now. I'll static time it, then run it to check the timing advance to see if I need stronger springs. -kid

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   / Refurbishing my Z145 135
  • Thread Starter
#292  
Putting things back together

Getting back to square one.. kinda.. Had to remove my distributor to mount my new shiney engine I.D. tag. Got that done rivets nailed in. Distributor and coil remounted. New gas tank put on and plumbed. I've got it static timed. I'm waiting on shipment of my Photo Laser Tachometer to check my advance springs. We've got some good weather in the forecast. It will be good timing to get some grass cut and a little bush hogging done. -kid

This I.D. has more detain than the original one. It turned out well.

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   / Refurbishing my Z145 135 #293  
Kids, since you are working on your timing maybe you can help me. My flywheel does not have any timing marks. However, I placed the engine cylinder #1 at TDC and marked in on flywheel. Since its supposed to be set a 6 degrees, do you know how many teeth past zero its supposed to be? I too want to get an electronic ignition system.
 
   / Refurbishing my Z145 135
  • Thread Starter
#294  
Kids, since you are working on your timing maybe you can help me. My flywheel does not have any timing marks. However, I placed the engine cylinder #1 at TDC and marked in on flywheel. Since its supposed to be set a 6 degrees, do you know how many teeth past zero its supposed to be? I too want to get an electronic ignition system.

Are you looking thru the small timing window? It might have a removable metal plug inserted in it. Mine does. It's located just behind the starter and a bit lower. There are marks on the flywheel but all entirely all the way around it. Just in the needed areas, so it may appear to not have any if your in between marks. -kid

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I'll score the front pully once I have the flywheel setting at the TDC mark.

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I'll place a marker on the crank pully when I use the Photo Tachometer. It came in today. I've only taken it out of the package. Here's a picture. Reasonably priced for what it does.

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   / Refurbishing my Z145 135 #295  
O.K. found it. I thought it was found by taking the plate off the bottom of bell housing. So do I turn the motor over (by hand) until the 6 degrees btdc is showing in the window and then mark where ??? I assume I hold timing light on crank pulley.
 
   / Refurbishing my Z145 135
  • Thread Starter
#296  
Pull your plugs to make it easier to roll your engine over. Take a 1 1/8" socket 1/2" drive to rotate the front crank pulley. Put your thumb or something in #1 plug hole. Turn the crank till it blows whatever out of the plug hole. Your on compression stroke. Now watch the little window with a flashlight till you bring TDC into the window mark. Your distributor rotor should be pointing to #1. That is static timing.

To use your timing light. It may have two or three leads. 12V+ distributor - coil connection and possibly a ground. Point the light at the little hole while it's running. Take a 1/2" wrench and loosen the distributor lockdown to adjust timing at X rpms. To check the power curve you need a precise way of measuring your rpms when you accelerate while watching your timing window with the light. It's not a complicated as it sounds. -kid
 
   / Refurbishing my Z145 135
  • Thread Starter
#298  
Got it. No problem. That looks like a neat tool you bought.
If you order one off eBay. Pay close attention to see if it's coming out of the US or Asia. Make a huge difference in delivery time. -kid
 
   / Refurbishing my Z145 135 #299  
Hit the garage sales for old engine analyser? and timing lights with advance.
 
   / Refurbishing my Z145 135
  • Thread Starter
#300  
I've always been curious as to how something is made. One of the items on my tractor I wanted to improve was the serial tags. Both the tractor and engine. On a 1965 serial tag everything on the tag is embossed which made restoring very easy. I little bit of masking tape around the edges, then a light spray of black over the entire plate. I tool wet sand paper and gently rubbed the paint off the embossed lettering. Leaving a new looking plate.

The engine serial tag of mine was painted over and when I removed the paint it also remove everything else except for the stamped numbers. I contacted two companies to have this plate made. Ouch. $350 to make just one plate and $375 to make 100. I contacted AGCO and they said I could make one or maybe one and a backup for personal use but not 100 which would have to go thru legal and he guaranteed a flat out no.

I search the internet for truetype fonts, and Ferguson logos. I played around with my version of Paint Shop Pro X2 and finally figured out that I could creat the tag. Printing on metal is a bit tricky. There is a special prep to coat the aluminum to allow an inkjet to print on it. You have to remember this tag is only around 3.85" X 2" in size. I wanted high detail that was readable. Something called AirInk I think is used. I used a different method and it turned out great. Only one problem. Injet ink is NOT waterproof. So to solve that is to give the print a coat of acrylic lacquer which waterproofs it just fine. The metal I cut with scissors from a no trespassing sign :laughing: I signed my name on the back. I have a closeup of the tag and you can read CONTINENTAL MOTOR CORP very easily on the logo. Unreadable on many mounted on tractors and those Z134, Z129, Z120 tags you see for sale.

With a bit of patience you can create something better than original. The rivets are nail in. SteinerTractor wanted 0.25 each. I bought a sack of 100 for $6 at Fastenol in Springfield Tennessee. They are a #6 nail in rivet that requires a 1/8 hole drilled out your old rivets. Your old rivets are hardnened steel so take your time.

Take a look at a tag created from scratch.

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This is the finished product I put on my tractor with rivets. Note the round logo on the left and the fine detail on it.

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Here is a paper printout of the same tag while I held it there to mark the rivet holes to be drilled.

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These last two pics are of the Tractor serial tag showing the embossed lettering which made it easier to refurbish. It was pretty sad looking fuel stained. I gave it a coat of acrylic lacquer as well. -kid
 
 
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