Refurbishing my Z145 135

   / Refurbishing my Z145 135 #301  
That's a great detail you added to the tractor.........awesome job
 
   / Refurbishing my Z145 135
  • Thread Starter
#302  
Some finished pictures

I posted this last night or early this morning and posted it in the wrong thread. Tried copy and paste didn't work. So I'll start over.

Other than a few little tidy things to do the tractor is pretty much finished. Here are a few pictures I took after a test run. I have a brush guard to put back on but wanted to snap off a few pictures of what it looks like without it. It will be red.

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Here's a picture of some of the wiring and you can see the new engine tag I made.

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This picture is the new alternator with tachdrive.

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Here showing all the new rubber for the shift boots (keeps water out of your tranny fluid) air cleaner rubber connector to the carburetor.

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A photo of the dash with the new throttle lever with brass bushing.

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Here's a picture of the rear. A lot of work done here. Replaced/rebuilt the draft control spring, new draft spring boot. New PTO output seal. New left fender with built in toolbox. The old one was eat through with rust. Mounted plow light and flashing caution light. Replaced all the bolts to most everything on the back end.

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Here's a picture of the front end showing the custom headlight visors I made that where made for Harley Davidson motorcycles. I'm going to hate putting a brush guard on the front, but I'm going to need it pushing over some small saplings busg hogging.

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Here's a picture of my grandson Kolton sitting proud on the 135. His granny was bringing him home from school and he saw me coming off the hill in the car and started squealing like a stuck pig. He has CP and loves tractors. Especially riding on one. He makes the project worth the effort. :)

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Here's a picture of my new self made Z145 I.D. tag. Due to copyright laws I couldn't make more than two or three for myself. Mine has greater detail and only one slight difference it would take an expert to spot It turned out well. The rivets came from Fastenal Inc in Springfield,TN

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I'll take more pictures as I get time. The weather is getting nice. Grass is growing so fast I can hear it. Honey Do list posted on the man cave wall. .-the kid
 
   / Refurbishing my Z145 135 #303  
Howdy Robert,

Looks real good. Something to be proud of and maybe pass down to the next generation. I would like to request a picture with the brush guard on and the hood tilted forward. Have a good evening.

v/r

Mike
 
   / Refurbishing my Z145 135
  • Thread Starter
#304  
Howdy Robert,

Looks real good. Something to be proud of and maybe pass down to the next generation. I would like to request a picture with the brush guard on and the hood tilted forward. Have a good evening.

v/r

Mike
Hi Mike. I'm replacing the oil pressure line from the engine block to the gauge so a picture of the sheet metal tilted forward is a possibility. If the brush guard is on , the front end can't be tilted. The guard bolts to the sway back front end which would prevent anything tilting forward. -kid
 
   / Refurbishing my Z145 135
  • Thread Starter
#305  
Howdy Robert,

Looks real good. Something to be proud of and maybe pass down to the next generation. I would like to request a picture with the brush guard on and the hood tilted forward. Have a good evening.

v/r

Mike
Mike this picture is for you showing you can hing the front sheet metal in one piece without taking it all apart. The four side bolts 7/16" and two hidden in the front inside near the radiator 11/16" bolts Once you take the four sides loose. Then slightly loosen each 11/16 both on both sides in the front. Now you can lift the sheetmetal upward to access or even remove the entire assembly. It's easier if you fill the front grill out and don't forget to disconnect the headlight cables. I took my hood off to do this. It's easier to see where everything goes back together.

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The next series of pictures is where I replace my oil pressure line. The copper line flared end couplings where pretty beat up from someone using channel lock on them. The coupler at the oil gauge had a crack in it, thus a leak. So I decided to replaced the entire line. Removed air breather, exhaust pipe to get access to properly bend a new line. It's time to button this one up and get some seat time. -kid

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   / Refurbishing my Z145 135 #306  
Howdy Robert,

Thank you for posting. I like that but not sure if I can do it because my nose cone is pretty beat up. I'm going to try it though. Nice job on the tractor, I really like it. I have a lot to do on mine. Working on a plow right now though. Have a good evening.

v/r

Mike
 
   / Refurbishing my Z145 135 #307  
Fantastic job Kid!
 
   / Refurbishing my Z145 135
  • Thread Starter
#308  
Howdy Robert,

Thank you for posting. I like that but not sure if I can do it because my nose cone is pretty beat up. I'm going to try it though. Nice job on the tractor, I really like it. I have a lot to do on mine. Working on a plow right now though. Have a good evening.

v/r

Mike

Mike, my suggestion is what I should have done in the beginning that is find a good used one at a tractor salvage yard. It would be less than a new one and the fitment would match exactly. The main reasons for welding was. one fitment was poor ( old to new). Two make it all one piece for ease of removal when needed. The front brush guard is as easy to remove as the front cowl. -kid
 
   / Refurbishing my Z145 135
  • Thread Starter
#310  
Calibrating your gauges

A pet peeve of mine is inaccurate gauges. The cheaper the gauge the more inaccurate they could possibly be. Also if they are built outside the USA which mine where, they could have been calibrated at a different altitude.

Water boils at around 210 - 212 degrees. So this is my standard. Since this is boiling this will be my extreme hot range on my gauge. Normal Operating temperature on a Z145 is around 135 degrees. So this is going to be my standard for below midrange.

I'm using a Harbour Freight infrared Thermometer to validate my temps. I was running my tractor today getting it up to operating temp and the needle in the temp gauge didn't budge.

My first thought I had damaged the sensor bulb that screws into the water neck. So I drained the radiator and removed the probe and gauge. To the kitchen.. I watched a video send by my friends in India who made the gauges I'm using They showed how easy it was to roll the bezel back with a screwdriver to remove the glass cover. Calibrating a Voltmeter gauge So I thought I'd apply the same logic to my temp gauge. The front bezel was easy to remove. I tested the gauge first in boiling water and it only brought to the needle to barely above half scale. (This showed my temp sensor bulb was not damaged, bent but still working) Still in the green. I thought, that can't be right.

So I took two small screwdrivers and carefully popped the needle off the temp gauge. I put the sensor bulb back in the boiling water. Read my laser thermometer and set the needle to extreme right. I let it cool down to around 155 degrees and it was a tad above midpoint. That's good enough for me. I cleaned the glass pressed the bezel back on and rolled the bezel in the circular motion while pressing the edge down sealing it back on the housing.

Here's a series of pictures on how I did it. The Voltmeter is next. It's off a couple of volts low. -kid

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