Refurbishing my Z145 135

   / Refurbishing my Z145 135 #331  
Never had any pressure in my tank....BobG in VA
 
   / Refurbishing my Z145 135
  • Thread Starter
#332  
Never had any pressure in my tank....BobG in VA

Thanks Bob. I didn't think it was suppose to. Mind you, mine is the Z145 engine which put out a lot of heat towards the driver. I think my temp fix till I get a truly vented on will work till then.. -kid
 
   / Refurbishing my Z145 135 #333  
Mines a Z145 as well...remember I sent you the pic of the engine serial plate? bobg in va
 
   / Refurbishing my Z145 135
  • Thread Starter
#334  
Mines a Z145 as well...remember I sent you the pic of the engine serial plate? bobg in va

Speaking of your tag. Did you see the one I made to replace mine? Like the commercial. Is it live or memorex. Mine has more detail than the original. Because of the perspective wasn't true 90 degrees, I decided to just create one from scratch. I did do one from yours, but using a retouched photo wasn't giving he the detail I needed. Now that I've done that I'm going to recreate one for my 41 Studebaker Coupe. -kid
 
   / Refurbishing my Z145 135
  • Thread Starter
#335  
135 Continental Oil filter Adapter

I saw this kit some time ago and was wondering if anyone else has one mounted. I currently have the original can type and was going to change the oil in a week or two. I was contemplating on switching over to a screw on filter. Any comments or problems anyone having with this.
View attachment 318143
 
   / Refurbishing my Z145 135 #336  
Again, seems like I might be one up on you...I've got it on my Z145...works great. BobG in VA
 
   / Refurbishing my Z145 135
  • Thread Starter
#337  
Again, seems like I might be one up on you...I've got it on my Z145...works great. BobG in VA

HAHAHAHA. Ok. I'll be ordering that kit soon. Thanks. -kid
 
   / Refurbishing my Z145 135 #338  
Howdy Kid,

I'm going to put a conversion kit on my Perkins gasser. There are to many O-rings missing on mine. I guess the previous owner did not think they were needed and its all kind rigged up. I don't think its being filtered now but its OK because I'm not running it. My biggest reason for changeing over is I'm to lazy to go get the parts drawing to see how it goes back together every time I change it.
 
   / Refurbishing my Z145 135
  • Thread Starter
#339  
Howdy Kid,

I'm going to put a conversion kit on my Perkins gasser. There are to many O-rings missing on mine. I guess the previous owner did not think they were needed and its all kind rigged up. I don't think its being filtered now but its OK because I'm not running it. My biggest reason for changeing over is I'm to lazy to go get the parts drawing to see how it goes back together every time I change it.

What's up Mike. Was it you that was looking for a heat shield? At any rate I saw one on ebay.

I have't changed the oil yet since I bought it. Suppose to have been done right before I bought it. I simply don't trust someone else's work, so I'm going to do mine in the conversion. - kid
 
   / Refurbishing my Z145 135
  • Thread Starter
#340  
Graphics Upgrade

I was really disappointed when I received my decal kit to put on my 135. I modeled my details after a photo I found on the internet of a 65-66 135 that had slightly different graphics on the sides. Also vintage brochures shows the silver stripe down the side panels wrap into the front grill. Aftermarket decals stop short of the front of the grill. So I decided to make my own.

I used 2" aluminum HVAC duct tape as the base stripe. I had 1 1/2" out door grade vinyl banners made at a local sign shop. He actually made one extra at no cost to practice with. The original lettering height was closer to 1 1/4" but I decided to go the extra 1/4". My front grill emblem bar is painted silver so the new stripe matches it perfectly.

Putting the lettering on without messing up is a bit of a trick the guy at the sign shop showed me. Take two small tabs on high grade removable masking tape (I used frog) and place on each end of the lettering banner. Now you can use a ruler and get the centering down the stripe perfectly. Once centered you can lay down a strip of tape across the top of the banner securing it to the panel. Remove the two end tabs of tape. Now the banner is attached and can flip upwards. Take a good pair of scissors and cut the banner into several smaller strips cutting bottom to top of the strip. Now you have several smaller strips perfectly lined up across the panel. Next flip up the first end piece and peel off the backing. Take a credit card and start at the top taped edge and work the lettering down. Do this on all the taped pieces. After you have rubbed them all down, now you can slowly remove the masking tape along with the lettering backing. The end result is a perfect straight line of lettering exactly where you wanted it.

Here some pictures of the results.

First picture is the banners I had made. I took and old piece of original sheet metal to the sign shop for them to try to get the font close length and spacing.

View attachment 328783

Next is a picture of the HVAC tape used to make the background of the banner. It fit perfectly on the side embossed area where normal decals are placed.

View attachment 328784

Next shows the tape applied down the panel side the same as seen on a restored photo I found on the net.

View attachment 328785

Next is a picture of the outdoor grade vinyl lettering applied down the side.

View attachment 328786

The last picture is a comparison old old and new. The font on the new lettering isn't exact but I think it look nice and worth the effort and looks 100% better than the canned lettering strips bought in kits.

View attachment 328787

Comments both positive and negative welcome. -kid
 
 
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