Buying a 135

   / Buying a 135 #2  
Rear tires are better than mine and I paid 3,000. Mine is a Continental powered one. I'd prefer a Perkins diesel. Does it have power steering or multipower. Ebay always has a few 135s in Ohio. Compare condition. I like my 135, just working out a few little things.
 
   / Buying a 135
  • Thread Starter
#4  
Thanks for replying Looking for a diesel.
 
   / Buying a 135 #5  
The price seems right if it's in good condition. The Perkins 3 cylinder diesel engine is said to be darned near bulletproof. If it runs and functions as it should, I'd say it could be a good buy, but you'll have to carefully evaluate it to make that determination for yourself.

It's difficult to tell by looking at a single picture with little or no description, but it appears to be all original with good sheetmetal and what appear to be decent tires. It has power steering, and it also looks if there might be a differential lock pedal, which would be a huge plus if has a differential lock. The alternator, orientation of the air filter, and solid red front rims seem to indicate that it's a late 60's or early 70's model, probably the latter. The spin in/out rims can be a plus or a minus, depending on how you plan to use it, but replacing them can be expensive so I'd look for signs of rust. Some damage (busted headlight & dented grille) is evident, but nothing that would cause me any concern.

There is some yellow present on the seat pan, which could indicate that it's from an industrial model tractor. Judging by the swept-back front axle, the tractor itself appears to be a standard ag tractor, but it's something to watch out for if it concerns you.

Lastly, I can't tell if it has multipower (control on lower right side of the dash), but many consider multipower to be a negative because it never seems to work right and can present a safety hazzard on hills due to the possibility of free-wheeling in low range.
 
   / Buying a 135
  • Thread Starter
#6  
The price seems right if it's in good condition. The Perkins 3 cylinder diesel engine is said to be darned near bulletproof. If it runs and functions as it should, I'd say it could be a good buy, but you'll have to carefully evaluate it to make that determination for yourself.

It's difficult to tell by looking at a single picture with little or no description, but it appears to be all original with good sheetmetal and what appear to be decent tires. It has power steering, and it also looks if there might be a differential lock pedal, which would be a huge plus if has a differential lock. The alternator, orientation of the air filter, and solid red front rims seem to indicate that it's a late 60's or early 70's model, probably the latter. The spin in/out rims can be a plus or a minus, depending on how you plan to use it, but replacing them can be expensive so I'd look for signs of rust. Some damage (busted headlight & dented grille) is evident, but nothing that would cause me any concern.

There is some yellow present on the seat pan, which could indicate that it's from an industrial model tractor. Judging by the swept-back front axle, the tractor itself appears to be a standard ag tractor, but it's something to watch out for if it concerns you.

Lastly, I cannot tell if it has multipower (control on lower right side of the dash), but many consider multipower to be a negative because it never seems to work right and can present a safety hazzard on hills due to the possibility of free-wheeling in low range.

Thanks for your input massey
 
   / Buying a 135 #7  
Looks like it is a multipower. I could be wrong but I think I see the grommet and rod than enters in the top of the MP unit. Looks pretty good. Of course it is only a picture. The reality can be something else all together!
 
   / Buying a 135
  • Thread Starter
#8  
Whats so bad abouy MP ?
 
   / Buying a 135 #9  
A quote that explains as well as anything I've read.

We are often asked how the multi power system on models such as the Massey Ferguson 65, 135, 165 etc. works. What really seems to intrigue people is that the engine breaking system works when in high multi-power, but there is no engine breaking when in low multi-power………

With the multi-power system there is one hydraulic clutch pack and also a ratchet type assembly. When in low multi the hydraulic clutch is dissengaged and the drive goes through a pair of gears into a ratchet clutch which takes the drive to the gearbox. There is no engine breaking in low multi because of the ratchet clutch. When you move the transmission to high multi it locks up the hydraulic clutch and the hydraulic clutch gear drives another gear. Because the drive is now turning faster than through the low-multi ratchet clutch, this now becomes a free-wheeling device. It is for this reason that there is engine breaking in high multi power, but no engine breaking in low multi power.
This is also why if you are in high multi going up a hill and you depress the clutch pedal that whilst in gear no roll-back can occur because of the ratchet clutch. ie. both systems are locked together. The hydraulic multi-power clutch is not torque converter, but is merely a multi-plate hydraulically operated clutch pack. The good thing about this is that there is no loss of power through to the gearbox.
The clutch is a conventional clutch and so is the 3 speed gearbox.

Problems occur on older tractors where the clutch is worn, dangerous to operate and a little more expensive than conventional to repair.
 
   / Buying a 135 #10  
I paid $3600 in July06 for a 1964 MF135 diesel deluxe with multipower. Check the instrument cluster--the deluxe version has all the gauges (ammeter, temperature, oil pressure, tach/hour meter, fuel level) while the special version has fewer gauges. Also check if it has multipower (an extra hydraulic clutch that coverts from 6F/2R to 12F/4R gears). You really need to drive this tractor before buying it and check it out throughly.

Good luck.
 
 
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