Massey 135 Barn Find

   / Massey 135 Barn Find #121  
Happy to see its is coming alony nicely.
Tom
 
   / Massey 135 Barn Find
  • Thread Starter
#122  
Here is the backing plate for the water pump in question. It's a phenolic material but mine has a crack in it so I will have to find/make a replacement. We set the ignition timing today (static) with the original points and coil. The points need a light cleaning to make contact. We weren't sure about the setting so we gave it a sniff of 2-stroke mixed gas in the intake and she fired right up and sounded great. There is no carb on the motor yet but I did get the carb split and disassembled.

IMG-20121008-00637.jpg
 
   / Massey 135 Barn Find #123  
2 stroke mix is good for first start up in my view for top end lube.
 
   / Massey 135 Barn Find
  • Thread Starter
#124  
IT RUNS!

Started the 135 today. I have some leaks to fix and the alt. is not charging. I filled the coolant with water just to flush out anything and check for leaks prior to fill with 50/50. I have not driven it but the lift arms popped right up. Tomorrow I'm going to drive it until hot and re-check the tappets then seal up the valve cover and install the fuel tank. I've not researched the air gap voltage regulator but if its like the points it will need a cleaning.

I replaced the water pump backing plate with a new PERKINS part. It was a stainless steel plate with a plastic coating on one side.

Pictures to follow.

QUESTION:
How long until I should re-torque the head? I'd prefer to heat it up and do it right away to eliminate re-installing the gas tank twice.
 
Last edited:
   / Massey 135 Barn Find #125  
Not sure on when to retorque. In all of these years I have never seen it done. Read about it but never seen it down. The same goes for exhaust manifold bolts I think.
 
   / Massey 135 Barn Find #126  
IT RUNS!

QUESTION:
How long until I should re-torque the head? I'd prefer to heat it up and do it right away to eliminate re-installing the gas tank twice.

Once its up to temp, you can re-torque the head, and also after that you can straight away re-look the tappets....usually they are quoted as "set while hot"....BobG in VA..... Good luck!
 
   / Massey 135 Barn Find #127  
Once its up to temp, you can re-torque the head, and also after that you can straight away re-look the tappets....usually they are quoted as "set while hot"....BobG in VA..... Good luck!
Can you make yourself a small temp tank, about a gallon to feed to the fuel pump? I've seen picture where people do that while adjusting the valves.
 
   / Massey 135 Barn Find
  • Thread Starter
#128  
Well it's 99 percent back together. Need to replace the sediment bowl and fix the lights which have a flaky connection in the rear. The tractor was fixed with OEM Perkins parts in the motor. There were a few aftermarket parts used else where. The only thing that I CHANGED from original was the mechanical voltage regulator, they have solid state ones now that plug into the original harness. I bought one.

It runs really well. There is a slight stumble when accelerating but I haven't touched the carb yet, the idle is adjustable, the high speed get is fixed. I didn't fix anything that wasn't broken, original cap and condenser, coil and no paint was used anywhere but the block and head. The rear rims are due for replacement, the one side has a hole that I can poke the tube through.

Oh, and that MINTY original seat split the first time I sat on it! Just a bit...

OEM:
All gaskets
Piston liners, rings, bearings and one piston
Oil strainer
Oil filter

Aftermarket:
Temperature gauge (My original has a blue glow that I'd like to replace properly)
Rubber hood bumpers
Rad hoses
Water pump
Fan Belt
Clutch alignment tool
Carb Kit

Massey ferguson 135 - YouTube

image-1.jpg

image-2.jpg

image-4.jpg
 
Last edited:
   / Massey 135 Barn Find #129  
Nice. Personally I think unretouched is preferred on one that old and nice. Other wise it is just another refurb job.
 
   / Massey 135 Barn Find #130  
Gale Hawkins said:
Nice. Personally I think unretouched is preferred on one that old and nice. Other wise it is just another refurb job.

Personally there is a difference in nice patina and rust damage that will continue rusting without repairing. I've repaired several areas on my tractor that where rusted and neglected. It's a personal choice as to what you want. Mechanically these old gems will runs for many years, but you have to keep maintenance up to date or it will suffer. It's the same with the exterior. Stopping rust in it's tracts is the best method. Later it will cost ten fold to repair. There are at least two reason why owners of these gems fix them up. One to rid any rust issues which these old treasures are prone to. Even stored in a dry barn doesn't protect them from rusting. Humidity is their enemy. Two to be able to be proud of something that will continue after your long gone. The old saying. "An once of prevention, is worth a pound of cure". applies well to these old treasures.
 
 
Top