Stand or stack pipe below hydraulic lift cover

[greenegg]

Hello.
I'd welcome some advise please.
I have just removed the hydraulic lift cover in order to fit a diverter valve.
To my horror, the stand (stack) pipe below the cover slipped back into the void below.
I guess this has happened to other folks too.
What is the best way of retrieving it.
Thanks in advance.
Ian M.

[The kid]

Hello.
I'd welcome some advise please.
I have just removed the hydraulic lift cover in order to fit a diverter valve.
To my horror, the stand (stack) pipe below the cover slipped back into the void below.
I guess this has happened to other folks too.
What is the best way of retrieving it.
Thanks in advance.
Ian M.

If you can't reach in and feel around for it, then it might be a good time for a hydro oil change so you can find it. Just remember to have plenty of buckets. You didn't mention what type of tractor your working on. My 135 holds around 8 gallons of hydro oil.


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[Soundguy]

i'd agree... a magnet on a stick or hand fishing..

[greenegg]

Thanks for the replies. It is a MF 135 built in 1965. Firstly I'll try with a magnet.
If the magnet fails I'm thinking of draining some oil off and then trying to go in behind the lift speed adjustment lever. Is that correct "Kid"?
The oil is very new!
Thanks again Ian

[The kid]

Thanks for the replies. It is a MF 135 built in 1965. Firstly I'll try with a magnet.
If the magnet fails I'm thinking of draining some oil off and then trying to go in behind the lift speed adjustment lever. Is that correct "Kid"?
The oil is very new!
Thanks again Ian

If it's new oil, then use clean buckets. Pop over to TSC or Wallyworld and get you a couple of new five gallon plastic buckets and your good to go. Good luck.

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[Soundguy]

or trash can liners in older buckets.
BTDT

I'm cheap.. er frugal..

clean the underside and drain plug very well.

when re pouring.. won't hurt to pour thru a paint filter. may get some gunk that HAD been n the sump.. etc..

wifes old nylones work too..

[greenegg]

Thanks everyone.
I have drained down the oil into clean buckets.
I have removed the lift speed adjustment lever, complete with draft response cam and cover.
I found and replaced the stand pipe with new O rings.
So far so good.
My final concern is replacing the lift speed adjiustment lever.
Please could someone advise me on where and how the cranked end of the draft resonse cam is located?
Plus any hints on how to make sure I've done the job properly.
Thanks
Ian M

[Soundguy]

isn't there an I&T manual for that tractor.. shgould have all that in exploded diagrams.

i know they have them for ford, ferguson, AC, case and JD....

[The kid]

Are you talking about the draft control response

[greenegg]

Hi Soundguy and Kid.
Please be patient with me. I'm a geriatric former UK school teacher playing at being an engineer!
The picture shows the bit I'm talking about.
I bought a "shop manual" when I acquired the tractor and I'm using the terms used in the book.
Simply where does part 6 in the diagram go and what is the easiest way of fitting it!
Thanks. This site is much more helpful than the manual.
Ian