We have liftoff of my Massey 135 Rebuild
- Thread starter Forester Massey
- Start date
OP
Forester Massey
Bronze Member
Thanks Robert: If its still leaking when I restart I am going to do what you did. The gasket you show is what I used. It was a new one that came with rebuild kit. I still have the old manifold and will test it against engine to see how it seals. I am confident I can get it worked out. Just anxious to hear it running again.
The kid
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- 1965 135 gasser, 1967 135 diesel
Forester, I just had a brain fart. If you have a piece of flat glass you can check your manifold for trueness. Brace the manifold to where the engine connection face is upward. Give it a light coat of Vaseline. Place the piece of glass on the manifold and see if the entire area is touching. Pay close attention to #4 cylinder area. A straight edge would also work to a point, but wouldn't show the entire surface trueness.
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OP
Forester Massey
Bronze Member
I have gotten lots of work done to shore up some of my overlooks on this tractor. I had a bad antifreeze leak coming from behind the water pump housing. I want to tell you that getting that thing off was one of the hardest things I did with with rebuild. I went out and bought a torch that turned out to be bigger than I thought. it put out a flame about a foot long. It was difficult to heat only the housing, so I had to be careful not to heat unwanted items. I also had to cover the carb for fear it catching fire. I was scared to death. It took two heating to finally remove it. I also found out that antifreeze will catch fire.
Once I got that apart and put back together I decided to remove the valve cover out of curiosity since I have run the tractor only about 10 minutes. To my surprise I found that the valve train was not getting any oil. It still have the assembly lube doing its job so I did not cause any undue wear. I decided (and remember masseyWV) telling me or mentioning taking the valve train apart and replacing rod. I took it apart and found lots of crud to stop things up. Now that I have that cleaned I should be good to go. I want to make sure I have everything lined up correctly before putting valve cover on tractor. When I just replaced the old pressure gauge with a new one and found oil making to to the top of engine, just not into valve train.
Lastly, I sent off a sample of my hydraulic fluid for testing and it came back just about as bad as the engine oil did before I rebuilt the motor. If you check the oil on the dip stick it looks pretty good. However, when I pulled a sample I was pretty confident it was not going to come out too good. I am sure many people ignore their hydraulic oil and many would be surprised at its condition if they had it tested. The test cost between $25-30. I plan to test the engine oil soon the make sure all is O.K.
Once I got that apart and put back together I decided to remove the valve cover out of curiosity since I have run the tractor only about 10 minutes. To my surprise I found that the valve train was not getting any oil. It still have the assembly lube doing its job so I did not cause any undue wear. I decided (and remember masseyWV) telling me or mentioning taking the valve train apart and replacing rod. I took it apart and found lots of crud to stop things up. Now that I have that cleaned I should be good to go. I want to make sure I have everything lined up correctly before putting valve cover on tractor. When I just replaced the old pressure gauge with a new one and found oil making to to the top of engine, just not into valve train.
Lastly, I sent off a sample of my hydraulic fluid for testing and it came back just about as bad as the engine oil did before I rebuilt the motor. If you check the oil on the dip stick it looks pretty good. However, when I pulled a sample I was pretty confident it was not going to come out too good. I am sure many people ignore their hydraulic oil and many would be surprised at its condition if they had it tested. The test cost between $25-30. I plan to test the engine oil soon the make sure all is O.K.
OP
Forester Massey
Bronze Member
This evening I got everything together and correctly. I just have another 10 minutes or so on another day and I can start it, get the timing set and make sure nothing else is leaking. One thing I am unsure about the how much I should tighten the valve cover bolts? It seems I can tighten them until the valve cover bends. I set my torque to about 7-8lbs and stopped for fear of bending something. Any thoughts?
In addition to cleaning up the valve train components, be certain to check for the presence of the small pin in the rocker shaft. The pin is known to break (happened to mine), thus allowing the rocker shaft to turn, cutting off the oil supply to the rocker arms. Here is a link to my post about it within my TBN forum thread about my Massey Ferguson 135 Tractor Restoration Project.
Rocker Shaft Assembly - Massey Ferguson 135 Tractor Restoration Project
The following image is a portion of an exploded view diagram (from AGCO Parts Books) for the valve train of the Massey 135 tractors equipped with the Continental Z-134 or Z-145 engines. The pin is part number 42, shown in red.
Last edited:
The kid
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- 1965 135 gasser, 1967 135 diesel
What did you ever do about the leak?
The valve cover bolts should only be tightened a little more than hand tight, about 5-8 foot pounds of torque, just enough to slightly compress the gasket, especially if a cork gasket is used. In your case, I advise against using gasket sealer on the valve cover gasket because you'll need to remove the valve cover again to re-torque the head bolts and adjust the valve lash. Afterwards, applying a light coating of non-hardening gasket sealer such as Permatex #2 to the valve cover gasket is fine.
OP
Forester Massey
Bronze Member
I pulled the manifold off last night to inspect the awful exhaust leak on #4 cylinder. It appears that the former owner ran this tractor with this leak for a long time as it has worn off part of the cylinder head. Below is a pic. You can see where the light comes in behind the ruler.
I think I can get it fixed with a combination of using two manifold gaskets and JB weld to take up the uneven wear on the head. If anyone has other suggestions, I am open to them.
I think I can get it fixed with a combination of using two manifold gaskets and JB weld to take up the uneven wear on the head. If anyone has other suggestions, I am open to them.
The kid
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- 1965 135 gasser, 1967 135 diesel
You really need to know just how much material is missing. It the head surface smooth? From the edge of the head, how far across the head is wore down. If you've ever watched someone or have yourself rebuilt a motor
. I' assuming you've heard of plastigauge which is placed between the main crank bearing and the crank journal. It basically tell us how tight the engine will be when assembled. You need to know that distance between the head and block. Plastigauge is probably too small for the gap your showing.Just my opinion. Doubling the entire gasket is going to give you the same results. You only need to thicken the area the needs it. You could actually take a sander and taper the added gasket and glue it to the full length one. But the question is. How much added thickness do I need? Here's what I would do.
First remove the manifold. Cleanup both surfaces really good. Get me some modeling clay or play dough. Now very lightly oil the area on both pieces with some lightweight oil. Cooking oil will do. We just don't want the putty,clay,dough to stick. You see where I'm going. Now make a string of it and place in to where you think the head is correct to the outer edge. Compress the clay by installing the manifold without a gasket. Remove the manifold and you should be able to see how how more gasket it will take to get a solid seal. Now it"s a matter of making a gasket to add. OR..... You could use some permanent make a gasket and lay out some beads in that area but not the entire manifold. Permatex would be the easiest, but I don't know able durability. The type gasket material you use needs to harden and heat resistant.
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