We have liftoff of my Massey 135 Rebuild

[The kid]

You have mail.

 

[Forester Massey]

Its been a while since I posted my progress of the 135. I have multiple accounts of gas tank leaks and I finally got that figured out. I had a major exhaust manifold leak on cylinder #4 cylinder-so bad that it wore the metal off the cylinder head. I bridged the gap with JB weld and it seems to have worked great.

Finally got my new wires installed correctly and got her fired up. This is the first time I have gotten to run her for an extended period.

So far, no leaks from anything on the engine. Running the tractor has simply been around the neighborhood. After running it several hours I decided to re-check head bolts and valve clearance.

To my surprise, I am still not getting any oil on the valve train. I had the problem early on and corrected it. If you do not know, there is a small protruding metal pin that keeps the valve train mounts oriented correctly to allow oil to enter and be distributed to valves.

I had everything correct when I put it back together, however, there are cork plugs at the ends of the valve train rod that keep the oil flowing to the valves. I knocked those out when I was cleaning it up but replaced them with some made from the foam of a sandal. My son uses the foam to make trout flies. My mistake was not applying a oil resistant glue to hold them in place. One moved down the tube, blocking oil from getting to the valves. I had some pretty decent wear occur. I have order a new tube with the plugs already in place and will finally get it right. If you ever work on this part of your tractor, don't ignore it.

My next problem, and one I could use some help on is getting the hydraulics to work. I am told they went up and down once by my friends. I have had no luck. The hydraulic oil is junk and needs replaced. I am prepared to do that but hate to put 8 gallons of new oil if I am eventually going to have to drain it out again to work on something. here are my questions.

1. I am told there is a filter to check. I have not seen where its located. If its clogged that could make a difference.

2. Can really bad oil prevent it from lifting and lowering?

3. I have taken off the inspection plate (located on side behind the response control). When I move the position control lever and watch it operate inside the inspection window, I see it move as I move the lever, then hang up about half way, and maybe lurch forward again once the lever is moved all the way. To me, it seems that the lubricant is at fault.

4. When I move the draft control I see nothing moving in inspection window but no sure if I am supposed to.? Thanks to any that can help.

 

[murphy1244]

Did that help at all?

 

[Forester Massey]

Did that help at all?

Yes , but I have not had time today to investigate further. I have checked the Agco parts book and can find no evidence of a filter behind the PTO lever but several of you say it's there.

 

[murphy1244]

Yes , but I have not had time today to investigate further. I have checked the Agco parts book and can find no evidence of a filter behind the PTO lever but several of you say it's there.

http://www.agcopartsbooks.com/PartsBooksN/Viewer/toc.aspx?book=agco/651199# Item 2 is the filter Section I looked was Hydraulic pump 6 and 8 speed. The second one in the column.

 

[murphy1244]

http://www.agcopartsbooks.com/PartsBooksN/Viewer/toc.aspx?book=agco/651199# Item 2 is the filter Section I looked was Hydraulic pump 6 and 8 speed. The second one in the column.

That link did not work. try this http://web.archive.org/web/20071120013532/http://hometown.aol.com/bigdean62/page2.html

 

[The kid]

Its been a while since I posted my progress of the 135. I have multiple accounts of gas tank leaks and I finally got that figured out. I had a major exhaust manifold leak on cylinder #4 cylinder-so bad that it wore the metal off the cylinder head. I bridged the gap with JB weld and it seems to have worked great.


1. I am told there is a filter to check. I have not seen where its located. If its clogged that could make a difference.

2. Can really bad oil prevent it from lifting and lowering?

3. I have taken off the inspection plate (located on side behind the response control). When I move the position control lever and watch it operate inside the inspection window, I see it move as I move the lever, then hang up about half way, and maybe lurch forward again once the lever is moved all the way. To me, it seems that the lubricant is at fault.

4. When I move the draft control I see nothing moving in inspection window but no sure if I am supposed to.? Thanks to any that can help.

Drain the oil from trans/hyd/diff then remove the lefthand side cover (the one with the pto lever in it) taking note how the linkage connects to the sliding pto gear, you will see a brass cap with wings on it, snip the mechanics wire and unscrew, there is another cup under the filter so try and lift the whole unit out together to avoid dropping crud in the pump, if the filter is in good shape you can rinse out in diesel and replace. When draining oil place quadrant controls in lowest position in order to drain ram cylinder. Refill with a good trans/hyd/diff oil to MF specs M1129A. If you go to TSC it will cost you around $50 for the oil. I bought one five gallon and 2 two gallon so I would have an extra gallon when/if neeed.
If your oil is cream coffee colored, it has water in it. Probably got in thru the shift boots not sealing or need replacing. Common problem. Thick tranny fluid will effect the hydraulics. Usually slows it to a crawl.
Attached is a picture showing the location of the pump. -kid
View attachment 309966

 

[murphy1244]

Drain the oil from trans/hyd/diff then remove the lefthand side cover (the one with the pto lever in it) taking note how the linkage connects to the sliding pto gear, you will see a brass cap with wings on it, snip the mechanics wire and unscrew, there is another cup under the filter so try and lift the whole unit out together to avoid dropping crud in the pump, if the filter is in good shape you can rinse out in diesel and replace. When draining oil place quadrant controls in lowest position in order to drain ram cylinder. Refill with a good trans/hyd/diff oil to MF specs M1129A. If you go to TSC it will cost you around $50 for the oil. I bought one five gallon and 2 two gallon so I would have an extra gallon when/if neeed.
If your oil is cream coffee colored, it has water in it. Probably got in thru the shift boots not sealing or need replacing. Common problem. Thick tranny fluid will effect the hydraulics. Usually slows it to a crawl.
Attached is a picture showing the location of the pump. -kid
View attachment 309966

Good job Kid

 

[The kid]

Forrester, if changing the fluid and cleaning/replacing the hydro filter doesn't get you going, you can save that new oil. When you get your tranny oil, also get yourself a LARGE funnel. Five gallons is heavy and with a large mouth funnel will keep that oil off the floor. If you don't have any large buckets, get two large plastic buckets or save a bunch of gallon jugs to put your used oil in. Our county has a reclamation center that takes oil. There is two drain plugs on the lower left side. One below the seat on the left and one near the rear end. The Hydro and rear end share the same oil. However there is two plugs to vacate all the oil. Be sure to drop your controls down to also drain the rear hydro piston. If the oil is really really bad. Some will run some diesel fuel thru the chamber to clean out any sludge that might be on the bottom. That's been said here many times and also others on the web.

You will know how bad it is by the color. -kid

 

[Forester Massey]

Forrester, if changing the fluid and cleaning/replacing the hydro filter doesn't get you going, you can save that new oil. When you get your tranny oil, also get yourself a LARGE funnel. Five gallons is heavy and with a large mouth funnel will keep that oil off the floor. If you don't have any large buckets, get two large plastic buckets or save a bunch of gallon jugs to put your used oil in. Our county has a reclamation center that takes oil. There is two drain plugs on the lower left side. One below the seat on the left and one near the rear end. The Hydro and rear end share the same oil. However there is two plugs to vacate all the oil. Be sure to drop your controls down to also drain the rear hydro piston. If the oil is really really bad. Some will run some diesel fuel thru the chamber to clean out any sludge that might be on the bottom. That's been said here many times and also others on the web.

You will know how bad it is by the color. -kid

Thanks Kid
I found the filter and got it off and cleaned it. It had debris in it but not to the point it would affect flow. I had mentioned in a past post that the oil is junk. I had it analyzed and it came back "critical". It has water as well as old. I replaced the shifter boots which were cracked from age.

I have the cover on other side open also. From what I read, I can start tractor and look through this window and check for leaks in ram cylinder, stand pipe and control valve or pump side valve chambers. However, I do not know what that will look like if it does leak. Where does the leak come from?

I have not drained out all fluid as I want to run a flush through it to unstick any valves and get other contaminates out before I fully drain. I plan to put a high quality synthetic tractor hydraulic oil, so its important to me to get as much out of the change as possible. My friends told me that they got it to go up and down once right after we got it started. I am hoping the flush and oil change will go the trick. But if I have to drain again, that's o.k. It looks like I won't have to drain all of it.