'73 MF135 Perkins diesel AD3.152 help

[lugnut1009]

Just PM'd Hutch, hope he has time to mess with me and has some good news or advice for me.

Thanks everyone for your help and patience!!

 

[lugnut1009]

Well, I don't know what it is I am doing wrong, but I have followed the instructions to the best of my ability and it seems that if the draft adjustment is right then the position adjustment is out and vise versa. So I thought I didn't care SO much about the draft if the position worked at this point. I adjusted the position out and re-installed the top cover. Now it's all out of adjustment, the 3 point will lift if the draft is as far back as it can go and you cycle the position lever a couple times. Anybody had any luck at adjusting these two points?

I did completely remove the top cover and invert it as the directions said. I thought everything else was as directed also, if I am mistaken please correct me...

 

[namyessam]

it looks like you have and IT service manual. That's the manual I have and now am concerned since my plan is to pull the top cover to check my multipower pump pressure sometime this summer. Since I will have gone this far in to it, it would be great to check all the adjustments at this time but since you are having problems I am skeptical of trying to adjust anything since the three point seems to be working fine. I will read through the instructions to see if I can offer any assistance.

 

[lugnut1009]

When I get this all figured out, I will post my findings here and post adjustment instructions in laymens terms.

 

[namyessam]

When I get this all figured out, I will post my findings here and post adjustment instructions in laymens terms.

reading through it last night, it is clear that the position of the lift arms and the position of the levers at each adjustment is very important along with two other adjustments that need to be made before the linkage adjustment itself. Since the three point was not operating properly when you started this and did not have the ability to scribe marks on the rockshaft as described in the manual, it sounds like you can set the travel position with a gage that can probobly be homemade. Then locking the rockshaft in that position you can start all the linkage adjustments. Good Luck.

 

[The kid]

When I get this all figured out, I will post my findings here and post adjustment instructions in laymens terms.

My question is. When you discovered the draft control adjustment screw had come lose, why not just concentrate in that area. But you had lift problems ever when you had the auxiliary controls right? BTW how did you get that Allen head screw out. inquiring minds would like to know. -kid

 

[The kid]

Yeah a push button start switch would be just like my momentary key switch.

I wired the white wire (#1 wire) up through the oil pressure switch and proved that it works, but I'm fairly certain that the alternator is bad. I am going to take it off and get it tested. That will at least confirm that my wiring job isn't the issue.

Here's a few more pictures I snapped with it idling and the hood removed.

Maybe someone can help me out with my confusion on my hydraulic controls with these pics...

Can someone tell me where I can find this floor board bracket?

Pictures missing. Was the rung board support for left or right side. I found one for sale on ebay for $4 today.

 

[lugnut1009]

My question is. When you discovered the draft control adjustment screw had come lose, why not just concentrate in that area. But you had lift problems ever when you had the auxiliary controls right? BTW how did you get that Allen head screw out. inquiring minds would like to know. -kid

At first yes, I concentrated only on that adjustment. Although I didn't know exactly what I was doing when I attempted my adjustment. I re-installed it and the lift would do nothing, I went through that process again and decided it best to adjust both since the lift wouldn't raise at all. Now I have to do some research and hopefully by this weekend I can get back out to it and fix it correctly.

The lift seemed to work ok when I was using the original auxilary controls (it has crossed my mind mulitple times to re-install them), but it was slow to raise and akward to control. I just wanted the normal tractor 3 point lift, especially since I wasn't using the auxiliary side of the controls anyway.

I ended up drilling out the head of the allen bolt to get it off. The head of the allen bolt is still stuck in the auxillary manifold, once it came off, I was able to easily unscrew the rest of the bolt with my fingers.

Pictures missing. Was the rung board support for left or right side. I found one for sale on ebay for $4 today.

I had a buddy of mine weld the bracket up. Which was quite amazing because after I got it off, it was obvious that a large chunk of the metal was gone. And he never looked at the tractor, I measured center to center on the holes and explained to him what it looked like. He built up the metal and finished it up like new!! Good to have good friends like that!!

 

[lugnut1009]

Sorry about the missing pictures. I will post the following link in my signature if it works here: http://s677.photobucket.com/user/lugnut1009/library/1973%20Massey%20Ferguson%20135

 

[shona13]

G'day lugnut 1009.
I need to ask a few questions so Here we go.
You removed the auxiliary valve assembly from the lift cover? did the stack pipe come out with the valve? did it come out all the way or just say one/two inches?
The transfer cap that is the cap you put on in place of the auxiliary valve does need an "O" ring and if need be you can replace the "O" ring on the Stack pipe The back up washer may be still serviceable ?all it does is act as a " Cushion" for the o ring.
fit the cap.

Lets say the Stack pipe did come out 2 inches first remove the sideplate ,I think you already have this off anyway the sideplate has the Hydraulic response control lever attached to it .
with the plate of and the transfer cap removed Using a Medium sized Philips head screwdriver push it down inside the hollow Stack pipe ,this can then be used as a "Handle "to guide the Stack pipe into position,IMPORTANT MAKE SURE THE ENGINE STOP KNOB IS PULLED OUT then with your LEFT HAND put your hand inside the housing and to the front where the Stack pipe would be and feel around and you will find the pipe ,follow the pipe down and you will feel the hole in the pump that it fits into ,using the screwdriver handle ,wiggle the pipe around till it goes into the hole , if the pipe is correctly engaged it should stick out of the top about one half inch replace the cap and side plate .


The reason I ask the questions are to help me work out what you have adjusted .

Did you REMOVE THE LIFT COVER ? The adjustments you show in your post can only be done with the cover removed .

Lets say you did not remove the cover that is the large heavy casting that the seat bolts onto, you loosened nut N and adjusted the set screw /bolt "A" ???.

First set the hydraulics in this position. POSITION CONTROL LEVER IN TRANSPORT .DRAFT LEVER ALL THE WAY BACK /UP. LIFT ARMS LOWERED ALL THE WAY
UNDO THE LOCKNUT "N" AND ADJUST THE SET" A" SCREW AND AT THE SAME TIME FEEL DOWN WHERE THE LONG LEVER CONTACTS THE CONTROL VALVE ROLLER. ADJUST THE ADJUSTING SET SCREW SO THAT THE ROLLER MOVES ABOUT ONE HALF INCH ,NO MORE YOU SHOULD BE ABLE TO PUSH THE ROLLER A LITTLE BIT MORE WITH YOUR FINGER THE OBJECT IS TO NOT ADJUST ALL THE WAY BACK ONCE DONE LOCK THE LOCK NUT.
start the engine and give it a try ,it may be close enough to get you somewhere near where you want to be IMPORTANTany adjustments you make should be as little as possible the hydraulic system is very sensitive to the slightest adjustment.

As I have said This is only to hopefully get you back to where you started and nothing else.

Keep me posted .
Regards .
Hutch.