'73 MF135 Perkins diesel AD3.152 help

[shona13]

G'day lugnut.
For some reason I did not get the whole thread in your pm.
So that lot may not help ,so try again.
With the lift cover removed to carry out a complete adjustment does require service tools ,let me try to guide you through the procedure without the service tools .
First with the cover on its back and the lift arms in the FULLY RAISED position set the Position lever in the TRANSPORT position and the DRAFT lever in between the two lines which are stamped into the metal on the DRAFT quadrant.

Undo the position control adjusting locknut "circled in blue",screw it out till at the end of the thread but not all the way out then undo the lock nut on the draft adjustment set-screw"marked in red circle",
You do not have the adjusting tool so push the control arm with about three pounds of force and at the same time watch the gap between the control arm and the dash-pot piston ,this is the small rod with the little ball on the end ,with pressure on the control arm adjust till you can just see a very slight gap between the two at this point lock it up.

Next set the DRAFT lever in the UP position ,all the way back.pull the lift arms up towards you and put a one inch spacer ,a socket!! etc. between the lift cam arm and the lift cover this will hold the lift cam roughly in the position you need for the position control adjustment,set the POSITION CONTROL lever about one half inch from all the way up and adjust the small Allen grub screw in until you get the same result as you did with the Draft Adjustment that is adjust till you can JUST see daylight between the dash-pot ball end and the control lever with about 3 lbs force on the control arm.

That is the hydraulic system adjusted as near as you need to get the linkage to work .

To carry out a complete adjustment requires that the draft toplink assembly be removed ,serviced ,adjusted and renstalled.

again this is only to possibly get you going .
Happy days.
Hutch.

 

[lugnut1009]

Yes the stand pipe came out with the aux valve, I am going to replace all the o-rings on the stand pipe and the cover, but because of work I haven't yet.

Between removing the aux valve and installing the cap a few times, and dropping the standpipe once, I'be gotten pretty good at getting the stand pipe into the correct hole in the pump.

Yes I did remove the lift cover to make these adjustments, although I thought the manual said to have the arms in transport position...

I hope I answered your questions, I really appreciate you helping me with your expertise.

 

[lugnut1009]

G'day lugnut.
For some reason I did not get the whole thread in your pm.
So that lot may not help ,so try again.
With the lift cover removed to carry out a complete adjustment does require service tools ,let me try to guide you through the procedure without the service tools .
First with the cover on its back and the lift arms in the FULLY RAISED position set the Position lever in the TRANSPORT position and the DRAFT lever in between the two lines which are stamped into the metal on the DRAFT quadrant.

Undo the position control adjusting locknut "circled in blue",screw it out till at the end of the thread but not all the way out then undo the lock nut on the draft adjustment set-screw"marked in red circle",
You do not have the adjusting tool so push the control arm with about three pounds of force and at the same time watch the gap between the control arm and the dash-pot piston ,this is the small rod with the little ball on the end ,with pressure on the control arm adjust till you can just see a very slight gap between the two at this point lock it up.

Next set the DRAFT lever in the UP position ,all the way back.pull the lift arms up towards you and put a one inch spacer ,a socket!! etc. between the lift cam arm and the lift cover this will hold the lift cam roughly in the position you need for the position control adjustment,set the POSITION CONTROL lever about one half inch from all the way up and adjust the small Allen grub screw in until you get the same result as you did with the Draft Adjustment that is adjust till you can JUST see daylight between the dash-pot ball end and the control lever with about 3 lbs force on the control arm.

That is the hydraulic system adjusted as near as you need to get the linkage to work .

To carry out a complete adjustment requires that the draft toplink assembly be removed ,serviced ,adjusted and renstalled.

again this is only to possibly get you going .
Happy days.
Hutch.

Sorry I am just now seeing this post Hutch, I replied the other day to your first post on my phone and didn't think to look at this one.

I had plans to work on it yesterday but too much other stuff happened and I ran out of time. Hopefully I can get to it this week, I need it back working pretty quick.

Again, thank you for your help explaining the adjustment procedure to me better than I could interpret it. I will post here of my results, hopefully soon!!

 

[lugnut1009]

Well, I've decided to throw in the towel on this hydraulic conversion nightmare! The auxilary valve will be mounted back on and I will continue to run it as is. I have learned a little about my tractor, and now believe that the aux valve may have initially been installed because of some foul up with the original controls. So, I will re-install the aux valve and maybe I'll find a small use for the other port on it...

I really appreciate everyone's help with this issue, even though it wasn't solved, hutch your procedure seemed to work better than anything else I tried. And now if I ever have to get into it again, i know it's not that big of a delimma.

Thanks again for everyone's help. I'm sure I'll be back on here with another issue before too terribly long, the thing is 40 years old after all...

 

[namyessam]

After reading the post from Hutch, it doesn't seem like my system operates as he describes it. When I purchased the tractor the owner told me I needed to have the left hand lever pulled back toward the seat and use the position lever next to the fender as if the auxiliary valve did not exist. Based on what i read from Hutch I believe he is saying that I should be able to raise and lower the three point from the auxiliary valve and not have to use the position normal position lever. As I stated before it never made sense to me and I will need to check into it further when I get back to the acreage. It may have something to do with the valve not being set for either a single acting or double acting system.

Sorry to hear that you did not have any luck getting your TPH to operate properly by removing the auxiliary valve. I can't imagine that the valve has any different effect than your new cover on the actual operation of the TPH. I will be surprised if you get it to work with the auxiliary valve installed. I"ll be the first to admit that I don't understand the inner workings of the system. I'm not judging but I can sense your frustration and by putting it back on is the last resort. As in the quote above I still have to have the left hand lever pulled toward the seat and locked there to get my TPH to operate with the standard controls. I talked with my dealer and he kinda agreed with Hutch that we should be able to raise and lower the TPH with the auxiliary valve but I still can't get it to operate like that. I bought a box blade recently and gave it a good work out putting over 5 1/2 hours on the tac but in real time I think it was more like 7 to 8 hours. I moved what I calculated was about 14 cubic yards of dirt and my three point worked flawlessly except for having to snug up the detent one the left lever to keep it pulled back. I hope you can get this resolved so the TPH is usable again. Keep us posted

 

[lugnut1009]

From what I can tell, the aux valve takes full hydraulic pressure straight to the TPH cylinder. I think with the aux valve pulled all the way back it allows flow through your original controls and provides an open unrestricted flow through the aux valve. I could be wrong, but this would explain why mine didn't operate like yours, because my original factory controls were so far out of adjustment. In fact, I bet I will have to remove my top cover one more time to adjust my controls back to where they were before, where the original controls are open and provide full pressure to the aux valve via the stand pipe.
I guess it would've paid to know the history of the tractor better, oh well...

 

[The kid]

From what I can tell, the aux valve takes full hydraulic pressure straight to the TPH cylinder. I think with the aux valve pulled all the way back it allows flow through your original controls and provides an open unrestricted flow through the aux valve. I could be wrong, but this would explain why mine didn't operate like yours, because my original factory controls were so far out of adjustment. In fact, I bet I will have to remove my top cover one more time to adjust my controls back to where they were before, where the original controls are open and provide full pressure to the aux valve via the stand pipe.
I guess it would've paid to know the history of the tractor better, oh well...

I'm wondering if your stand pipe is correct for stock use or made for the aux valve. -kid

 

[lugnut1009]

My standpipe just goes straight from the hydraulic pump/control valve in the belly of the tractor up to the top where either the cover plate redirects the flow straight to the TPH lift cylinder or if using an auxiliary valve it would control the flow. So if I am correct, I need to make certain I am supplying full hydraulic flow/pressure through the standpipe to the aux valve. Which should be the same as if the original controls were in full up position and constant pumping right?

 

[namyessam]

My standpipe just goes straight from the hydraulic pump/control valve in the belly of the tractor up to the top where either the cover plate redirects the flow straight to the TPH lift cylinder or if using an auxiliary valve it would control the flow. So if I am correct, I need to make certain I am supplying full hydraulic flow/pressure through the standpipe to the aux valve. Which should be the same as if the original controls were in full up position and constant pumping right?

Based on your description of the hydraulic circut. Oil comes up the standpipe into the auxliary valve or the replacement cover, then goes through the auxiliary valve or the replacement cover then is routed back into the top cover into the three point control circut. Can you blow air through the replacement cover from the standpipe port to the out port. There is a pipe plug sealing the cross hole between the two ports isn't there. Maybe cross hole is not drilled all the way through connecting the in and out or is plugged and thats why you were blowing oil out. This was happening when you were short the o-ring. Did this happen when you had the o-ring in or was it that the TPH was still not operating? It sounds like your problem all stemmed from the linkage out of adjustment and then maybe is complicated by the replacement cover not being correct?? Only guessing! ? Can you use some ink on the o-rings and push the cover down in place and take it off to see if the ports line up properly?

 

[lugnut1009]

The cover plate does line up correctly. The original factory hydraulic control valve is located in the bottom of the housing in the belly of the tractor, you can remove the draft response cover and actuate the TPH with the lever there by hand. The fluid then travels through the stand pipe to the top cover, and if the OEM cap is on, it is then redirected straight to the hydraulic cylinder that lifts the TPH. This makes sense that you could lock the lever in the rear detent and operate your tractor normally using the position and draft controls since the hydraulic fluid flows through the OEM control valve first.

Obviously there is something that is not quite right with mine however. I have come to the conclusion that something else is either way out of adjustment or some component that I am unaware of is missing. Thus, making it impossible to get the position and draft control mechanisms into adjustment.

Besides, it's not like I farm with it or anything, I just wanted it to function as intended by MF.