'73 MF135 Perkins diesel AD3.152 help

[The kid]

One thing I am noticing in some of your descriptions and particularly in the following picture from the web, i have only a simple 2 pole starter switch (looks OEM), and a lot of them show a more complex switch like the one below. That can be easily replaced with a universal starter switch, or I may just install a toggle switch beside the starter switch (which is momentary just to pull in the starter) to energize the field wire before I start the engine. Of course, if my oil pressure switch works, then I could just use it. Hmmm.....

This one looks good, it's on a site for rewiring hotrods. Which should have simple circuitry similiar to my tractor I would think. Anyway, thought I'd share...

On my starter only one terminal is used on solenoid. So you might say mine is a single pole, but actually has two on the solenoid. That would route thru the neutral safety switch before going to the start terminal on the ignition switch. -rrobert

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[lugnut1009]

That's exactly what mine does. My starter solenoid actually has another terminal for the ground but I guess it's getting its ground through the frame. I think I am going to leave the starting circuit as is, and rewire the alternator/charging circuit by installing a light and using my existing oil pressure switch (if it's good).

Wish me luck!!

 

[The kid]

That's exactly what mine does. My starter solenoid actually has another terminal for the ground but I guess it's getting its ground through the frame. I think I am going to leave the starting circuit as is, and rewire the alternator/charging circuit by installing a light and using my existing oil pressure switch (if it's good).

Wish me luck!!

One thing I failed to mention is to check for grounding on the alternator. Poor ground. Poor charging.usually the mounting bracket is enough, but if you have new unbroken paint. Ground bonding could become an issue. Also if your still using ammeter gauge. Be sure to route your entire load thru it. Positive terminal to source. Negative to load.you could locate an idiot light below or above the amp gauge.

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[lugnut1009]

I do still have one in the dash but I'm not sure it works.

 

[The kid]

I do still have one in the dash but I'm not sure it works.

Good deal. Look like just a matter of puting things back like they where originally. One the photos you posted shows the type if ignition switch I'm now using that has ACC terminal. I' using a voltmeter instead of a ammeter.

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[murphy1244]

How about a diesel with just a starter button.how would that work?

 

[MasseyWV]

That looks like a Delco Remy alternator internally regulated 10SI, it's a very common replacement on lots of autos and equipment.
View attachment 304886

Below is a cut and past from another forum
1. This is the main power wire that goes directly to the battery. Make sure it is a heavy gauge since it has to carry the full output of the alternator

2. This is the field wire that energizes the alternator. It must be switched, or else it will drain the battery overnight.

3. This is the lead for the sensing wire that goes to the idiot light in your instrument panel. When this light lights up you know that your the alternator has just stopped charging.

I agree, it appears to be an internally-regulated Delco Remy 10SI alternator.

I will do a little trial and error today and see if I can get the alternator to start charging.

I found a few more wiring diagrams from a quick search on the web.

one looks good, it's on a site for rewiring hotrods. Which should have simple circuitry similiar to my tractor I would think. Anyway, thought I'd share...

Any of these wiring diagrams will work just fine, assuming your alternator has been tested and found to be good.

 

[The kid]

How about a diesel with just a starter button.how would that work?

Isn't the start button doing the same as a ignition switch? Power is removed once the engine is killed with the oil pressure switch. Is it not?

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[lugnut1009]

Yeah a push button start switch would be just like my momentary key switch.

I wired the white wire (#1 wire) up through the oil pressure switch and proved that it works, but I'm fairly certain that the alternator is bad. I am going to take it off and get it tested. That will at least confirm that my wiring job isn't the issue.

Here's a few more pictures I snapped with it idling and the hood removed.

Maybe someone can help me out with my confusion on my hydraulic controls with these pics...

Can someone tell me where I can find this floor board bracket?

 

[murphy1244]

Isn't the start button doing the same as a ignition switch? Power is removed once the engine is killed with the oil pressure switch. Is it not?

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Yea, but I don't have a key switch that has a on setting. You just turn the knob to engage the starter and let go.