I sent you a PM.
'73 MF135 Perkins diesel AD3.152 help
- Thread starter lugnut1009
- Start date
I sent you a PM.
The kid
Elite Member
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- Apr 25, 2012
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- 4,132
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- Middle Tennessee
- Tractor
- 1965 135 gasser, 1967 135 diesel
I wired a pilot light in series with the oil pressure switch. Exactly like the attached image but using the oil pressure switch in place of the ignition switch in this pic.
Ok.. I see. you have a no charge light (idiot light) That's a common configuration. I thought you said low oil pressure light. #2 jumps to Batt terminal on the Alt. Your #1 goes to charge light. I take that same wire to ACC on my ignition switch to eliminate that light. If that a factory configuration on a 73? My tractor is Ooold.
OP
lugnut1009
Bronze Member
No this is not factory wiring, This is how I wired it using the retrofitted 10SI alternator.
The kid
Elite Member
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- Middle Tennessee
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- 1965 135 gasser, 1967 135 diesel
The exciter wire comming from the alternator if going thru the OP switch the light will not be on when the engine is off. It will only come on while the engine is running and the alternator fails charging, then the backfeed from the battery powers the lamp. When the alternator is charging the two voltage cancel each other out. Sometimes a diode is use inline with the exciter wire to prevent battery failure over time if the tractor has not been used for a long time. I'll see if I dig up that illustration showing that circuit. The circuit your using is common to most pre-electronic automobiles.
OP
lugnut1009
Bronze Member
You are correct. My oil pressure switch is a NO switch and closes under pressure, the light was going out because of the loss of voltage differential (12V on each lead), and i am trying to replicate a very simple pre-electronic automobile wire setup.
This is my actual oil pressure switch:
This is the OEM wiring diagram for my tractor, it is in my shop manual:
This is my actual oil pressure switch:
This is the OEM wiring diagram for my tractor, it is in my shop manual:
OP
lugnut1009
Bronze Member
This is actually how I wired mine:
The one thing I know that could be better, is of all the info I found for wiring this alternator up, I found it says to use a 10watt light or 10 ohm and 10 watt resistor. The one I used (happened to have it lying around at the time) is a 5 watt light. Which may be too low of a resistance to properly control the voltage output. Measuring with the engine running, battery disconnected, light in the circuit, I read 15 volts output from the alternator. Same setup except with the 5 watt light out and a direct connection there, I read 18 volts output from the alternator.
The one thing I know that could be better, is of all the info I found for wiring this alternator up, I found it says to use a 10watt light or 10 ohm and 10 watt resistor. The one I used (happened to have it lying around at the time) is a 5 watt light. Which may be too low of a resistance to properly control the voltage output. Measuring with the engine running, battery disconnected, light in the circuit, I read 15 volts output from the alternator. Same setup except with the 5 watt light out and a direct connection there, I read 18 volts output from the alternator.
OP
lugnut1009
Bronze Member
And just FYI, I think I've decided to remove my auxilary hydraulic controls and get the plate to get my original function of my lift controls. I don't see me ever using anything with an external cylinder to use the thing. I don't even have any good regular implements yet.
The kid
Elite Member
- Joined
- Apr 25, 2012
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- 4,132
- Location
- Middle Tennessee
- Tractor
- 1965 135 gasser, 1967 135 diesel
Good idea in my opinion. Good example of the KISS method. (Keep it simple stupid). If I had one and I only used the tractor to scrape my drive and bushhog with, I'd remove it. Not because it was working, but because I didn't need it and one less problem that could arise. Simply why i chose to go with an alternator. Do away with the VR and an outdated charging system. All of it worked. I just improved it and made it more reliable. I have made the comment in the past "why fix it, if it ain't broke". To improve the reliability is not fixing it. Here's another drawing on a 10SI circuit on a tractor. Your start switch/button. Two wires? A pull type kill knob?
View attachment 305707
This picture originated on TBN and I found it with a general search on Google. Compliments to whoever posted it.
OP
lugnut1009
Bronze Member
That is like mine is now. Although I need to double check some of the wiring that I didn't change around... Like what is on each side of the ammeter for one. I think mine has everything on one side and one wire from the other side to the "+" battery terminal.
A resistor would be my first choice.
Using the serial number you sent me, I did some checking and found that the 509682M91 oil pressure switch is correct for your tractor. Note that aftermarket switches sometimes vary in appearance, but as long as they have 2 blade terminals and are designated with the same part number, they should work.