'73 MF135 Perkins diesel AD3.152 help

   / '73 MF135 Perkins diesel AD3.152 help #1  

lugnut1009

Bronze Member
Joined
Feb 18, 2013
Messages
81
Location
Vicksburg, MS
Tractor
1973 Massey Ferguson 135 Diesel
Ok, I finally got around to looking a little more in depth into my MF135 and I've found some problems...

Ok, first off, almost all my wiring is ruined!! After removing all the old electrical tape, I uncovered that only a few wires are actually being used and I'm missing several components!! The only wires hooked up are, 1-12v source to the key switch, from there to the nuetral switch then to the starter. The only other wires hooked up are one from the back of the alternator to the ammeter, which is where the 12v source to the key switch comes from...

Second, I think I have the wrong alternator and I don't have a voltage regulator or inverter at all!! Is this maybe a later model alternator with all this built in?


I checked voltage with the battery disconnected and the engine running, there was only 2 VDC. I'm thinking that there is supposed to be 12VDC on the exciter coil which is the white and red wire in the pic, is this right or am I way off?

Third, my fuel shutoff shaft on my injector pump is leaking pretty bad. I tried getting the gasket and o-rings to repair it from the dealer but it didn't show up on their parts fiche. Don't really know where to find these at, I read some other posts about this fix...

Fourth, and last for now, my MF135 has the dual auxillary dual control valve right under the seat. When I first got it, it had an obvious homemade blade on the front with a hydraulic lift cylinder that hit the front nose piece when it's lifted, it's permanently off now and those ports are plugged. The other one seems to operate the 3 point hitch while the original controls don't. Is this normal? Was this added later by someone else and they didn't do it right? Maybe someone has a hydraulic schematic I can look at.

Thanks in advance for any help guys. I really appreciate it.





P.S.: I hope nobody expects this to be a total restoration or anything to go fast, we are getting a new house and funds are extremely short right now, but I plan to fix what I can as soon as I can.
 
   / '73 MF135 Perkins diesel AD3.152 help
  • Thread Starter
#2  
Sorry about the small pic, how about this one...

C65A0A21-B121-4800-B1EC-61227A05A4DE-623-0000005AF940E044_zpscf390a09.jpg
 
   / '73 MF135 Perkins diesel AD3.152 help #3  
That looks like a Delco Remy alternator internally regulated 10SI, it's a very common replacement on lots of autos and equipment.
alt-1.jpg

Below is a cut and past from another forum
1. This is the main power wire that goes directly to the battery. Make sure it is a heavy gauge since it has to carry the full output of the alternator


2. This is the field wire that energizes the alternator. It must be switched, or else it will drain the battery overnight.


3. This is the lead for the sensing wire that goes to the idiot light in your instrument panel. When this light lights up you know that your the alternator has just stopped charging.
 
   / '73 MF135 Perkins diesel AD3.152 help
  • Thread Starter
#4  
Wow, thanks for the help DaButcher! I will do some more research on this alternator. I did read in my manual that Delco Remy parts were used alot on MF tractors. This was a big help! I know that these old diesel engines don't need too many controls or wiring to operate, but since this alternator is internally regulated, do I no longer need the missing components? Like the voltage regulator and inverter? I wouldn't think so, but I have to ask.

I may find this out myself with a little research on my own. Thanks again DaButcher!!
 
   / '73 MF135 Perkins diesel AD3.152 help #5  
It looks like you have a very common Delco 10SI alternator. If you still have the OEM VR then #1 goes there. #2 goes to your oil pressure switch which leads to the ignition switch. #3 jumps over to the large voltage voltage wire on #1. That is if your still running original equipment type ignition switch. First thing you can do is take the alt off and take it to Autozone or like store and let them pull a test on it to make sure a diode isn't shot in it.

The way on a 135 diesel charges. The oil pressure comes up before it starts charging. It puts voltage on the #2 terminal. If your not using the original voltage regulator we need to back up and explain a different method using an idiot light and a diode. The oil pressure switch takes the place of the diode if you still use the original type VR. if idling and the oil pressure drops below the switch pressure your alternator will quit charging. That is why some may mention revving up the engine to get it to start charging.

To find your oil pressure switch start behind the dash on the OP gauge and follow it to the pressure switch. One wire comming from the alt and the other going to the ignition switch. I hope that helps.

My 135 continental gas is wired totally different to where I don't need a diode or idiot light. I have a modern ignition switch which is used to excite the alt with the ACC selection on the switch so I get instant charging.
 
   / '73 MF135 Perkins diesel AD3.152 help
  • Thread Starter
#6  
I saw the oil pressure switch and wondered what it was used for since an oil pressure switch wasn't on the electrical schematic in my manual for my tractor. It did have wires connected to it, but they didn't go anywhere.

I've never seen such a hack job on the wiring, it was pitiful! And as an electrician by trade, it aggravated me to know somebody cut, twisted, and taped up wires like that with no idea what they were doing. Thankfully the older systems like this don't use electronics that could short and get ruined easily.

But to answer your question The kid, I don't have the OEM voltage regulator or inverter. The only switches I have are the OEM ignition switch, nuetral safety switch, and that infamous oil pressure switch. When I was tracing wiring I thought I may have to buy a complete wiring harness with all the missing parts and pieces since everything seemed to tie back into the voltage regulator.
 
   / '73 MF135 Perkins diesel AD3.152 help #7  
I saw the oil pressure switch and wondered what it was used for since an oil pressure switch wasn't on the electrical schematic in my manual for my tractor. It did have wires connected to it, but they didn't go anywhere.

I've never seen such a hack job on the wiring, it was pitiful! And as an electrician by trade, it aggravated me to know somebody cut, twisted, and taped up wires like that with no idea what they were doing. Thankfully the older systems like this don't use electronics that could short and get ruined easily.

But to answer your question The kid, I don't have the OEM voltage regulator or inverter. The only switches I have are the OEM ignition switch, nuetral safety switch, and that infamous oil pressure switch. When I was tracing wiring I thought I may have to buy a complete wiring harness with all the missing parts and pieces since everything seemed to tie back into the voltage regulator.

This is not a problem without the original VR. In fact they did the right thing by taking it out of circuit. Alot of owners or old timers will leave the VR there just to look original but use the terminals for connections but not pass any voltage thru it. First you need to know if your alt works. The oil pressure gauge acts as a cutoff switch and without it the tractor might stay running and can't cut off the ignition. It the ignition stays hot, it will run the battery down in a short time. Take the large wire that i posted earlier instead of the VR. Take it to the starter hot terminal. The starter large wire goes straight to the battery. You can take it either place. I took mine straight to the battery under one of the wire bolts on the terminal clamp. Route the mentioned wire to the oil pressure switch and the other OP wire to the run/start on the ignition. That should do it if the alt is still good. Mind you. You will not see charging till the oil pressure closes the switch at the prescribed pressure. If you don't see charging, rev up a bit with volt meter attached to the battery. Then if still no charging then either the alt is shot or the oil switch is. The OP gauge can still show pressure even with a defective OP switch. -robert
 
   / '73 MF135 Perkins diesel AD3.152 help #8  
When I was tracing wiring I thought I may have to buy a complete wiring harness with all the missing parts and pieces since everything seemed to tie back into the voltage regulator.

Nah.. you can fix that one. Not a big deal. You may have to untape some original wiring to check everything. Buy you some regular black plastic electrical tape and some black friction tape. Wrap first with the plastic, take then wrap with friction tape. The friction tape will act as a waterproof seal and will servive greater heat and stay pliable. That's how I did my harness. Better than new. Upsized the wire. Harbour frieght for a assorted box of terminals and both types of tape. Get some black medium to small chicken ties to. They can be used to tidy the wiring.

Check your tranny fluid to see if it looks like coffee on the end of the stick.. Put a couple of shifter boots on your wish list. A very common water entry point . A little bit of water is normal from condensation if left outside. I bad boot and bad weather can put over a gallon of water in your tranny over time. Not good karma. It could gum up your hydro pump filter and really slow your hydraulics.
 
   / '73 MF135 Perkins diesel AD3.152 help
  • Thread Starter
#9  
I replaced my hydraulic / rear end fluid last year and luckily it hasn't gotten any water in it although both shifter boots need replaced, just replaced one. I will do a little trial and error today and see if I can get the alternator to start charging.

I found a few more wiring diagrams from a quick search on the web.
2009-10-03_221654_delco.jpg

DelcoSI2wiring.jpg


Even an internal wiring schematic of the alternator.
DelcoSI.jpg
 

Attachments

  • 2009-10-03_221654_delco.jpg
    2009-10-03_221654_delco.jpg
    38.9 KB · Views: 876
   / '73 MF135 Perkins diesel AD3.152 help
  • Thread Starter
#10  
One thing I am noticing in some of your descriptions and particularly in the following picture from the web, i have only a simple 2 pole starter switch (looks OEM), and a lot of them show a more complex switch like the one below. That can be easily replaced with a universal starter switch, or I may just install a toggle switch beside the starter switch (which is momentary just to pull in the starter) to energize the field wire before I start the engine. Of course, if my oil pressure switch works, then I could just use it. Hmmm.....

This one looks good, it's on a site for rewiring hotrods. Which should have simple circuitry similiar to my tractor I would think. Anyway, thought I'd share...

powercircuit1.jpg
 
 
Top