Massey Ferguson 135 Rebuild Journey (diesel)
- Thread starter Rivendale
- Start date
Here is a diagram of the Perkins AD3.152 diesel engine injector pump and injector nozzle assemblies from AGCO Parts Books
Judging by the diagram, it appears as if you only have to remove the nuts (part #13) from the studs (part #23) and pull the injector nozzle (part #11) out. The injector nozzle part number is highlighted in red.
Perfect. The picture you posted was just what I needed. I got them all out and the cyl. head is OFF! 
I found the offending area. It burned from the fire ring to a hole in the water jacket. WHEW!
I'm glad it was the gasket and not a crack in the block! SO after I get it all cleaned out, Im going to have it tested for straightness and get the valves reseated or replaced. Will have to see how bad it is.
I will then move to the water pump, oil pump, front crank oil seal and then also, I have a leak between the cylindrical part of the injector pump and the rectangular portion that sits on top of the main body. (the part where the throttle goes into) Fuel oozes out. There are the two studs coming up (the part with wire and lead seal holding them as tamper evident)
Can I just tighten thos two studs possibly?
I found the offending area. It burned from the fire ring to a hole in the water jacket. WHEW!
I'm glad it was the gasket and not a crack in the block! SO after I get it all cleaned out, Im going to have it tested for straightness and get the valves reseated or replaced. Will have to see how bad it is.
I will then move to the water pump, oil pump, front crank oil seal and then also, I have a leak between the cylindrical part of the injector pump and the rectangular portion that sits on top of the main body. (the part where the throttle goes into) Fuel oozes out. There are the two studs coming up (the part with wire and lead seal holding them as tamper evident)
Can I just tighten thos two studs possibly?
Honestly, I'm not certain. I've read about the injection pumps sometimes leaking around the throttle shaft, and seem to recall reading that it was caused by a worn seal. Attached is the manual for the injection pump.
Very helpful. Thank you again.
I will be cleaning the head and block and inspecting valves today. Ever since I can remember it had blue smoke out the exhaust. When first starting and also if it would idle for a couple of minutes, when you revved it up it would blow a cloud of blue smoke. Well, the cylinder walls and smooth and shiny. But it is burning some oil from somewhere. So I'm thinking maybe poor seating on valve(s)...What do you guys think?
The appearance of the cylinder walls really doesn't mean much unless they are scratched. The only way to be certain of their condition is to use a bore gauge to measure them in four places ("X" cross-section) at the top, middle, and bottom of the bore, noting each measurement as you go, for a total of at least 6 measurements for each cylinder. The cylinders tend to become tapered or out of round as they wear. How do the ridges at the top of each cylinder look? Did you measure the compression for each cylinder prior to dis-assembly?
The blue smoke is caused by poor oil control, either due to the valve seals, valve guides, oil control rings, or any combination of the three. The valves themselves would not cause poor oil control unless the valve stems were heavily worn, which would necessitate the need to replace the valve guides anyway.
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MasseyWV,
The ridges at the top of the sleeve is almost non-existant. In the sense that I can run my finger over it and it is only barely perceptible on one side (I kinda expected that the way they wear to one side)
At this point, I am going to do a functional rebuild instead of an all out show tractor restoration. Main reason being my working conditions. Working in a tobacco barn, unlevel dirt floor, no lighting or air. Plus since I actively farm, I will be using this tractor almost daily for a variety of utility tasks. Mowing and raking hay, bush hogging, grading etc.
So I am really not wanting to split the tractor in the current working conditions I have right now. If I had a concrete floor garage, I would go ahead and be a little more thorough.
As such, my goal is to get it running again. coolant circulating properly, rebuild or replace generator and wiring and gauges and give her some new shoes and a paint job. She was SOLID and had good torque all through the powerband before I ran her hot so if I can get back to that I will be happy for the time being.
The ridges at the top of the sleeve is almost non-existant. In the sense that I can run my finger over it and it is only barely perceptible on one side (I kinda expected that the way they wear to one side)
At this point, I am going to do a functional rebuild instead of an all out show tractor restoration. Main reason being my working conditions. Working in a tobacco barn, unlevel dirt floor, no lighting or air. Plus since I actively farm, I will be using this tractor almost daily for a variety of utility tasks. Mowing and raking hay, bush hogging, grading etc.
So I am really not wanting to split the tractor in the current working conditions I have right now. If I had a concrete floor garage, I would go ahead and be a little more thorough.
As such, my goal is to get it running again. coolant circulating properly, rebuild or replace generator and wiring and gauges and give her some new shoes and a paint job. She was SOLID and had good torque all through the powerband before I ran her hot so if I can get back to that I will be happy for the time being.
There's nothing wrong with doing a functional rebuild and a bit of cosmetic work. In fact, if I had to to it all over again, knowing what I know now, I might have done the same.
From your description, it sounds as if the cylinders are fine. The oil control problem is most likely caused by the valve seals and/or valve guides, but could also be a result of the oil control rings being fouled with carbon or sludge. Do you plan to remove the pistons?
In addition to reworking the cylinder head, I strongly advise removing the pistons and installing new rings, lightly honing each cylinder to break the glaze so the new rings will seat properly. After honing, be sure to thoroughly clean each cylinder with a stiff brush and mild soapy water, then dry and oil it prior to re-installing the pistons. And don't forget to gap the rings.
Rebuilding the generator is easy. I recently rebuilt mine if you run into any problems along the way.
Massey, Yes TONS of carbon build up. Prob due to burning so much excess oil. A vicious downward cycle. I am posting pictures of the progress and how far I am in the tear down.
I do not plan on removing pistons at the moment because I dont want to drop the oil pan. Again, I am going back to my poor working conditions. As you can see I am in a dirt floor barn.
I am going to take my entire head to a machine shop and have it checked for straightness and also to work my valve seals, guides and such. I am just going to pay to have it done because of time and also lack of some of the tools needed.
Here are some pictures and I will also post the serial # in the next day or so
I do not plan on removing pistons at the moment because I dont want to drop the oil pan. Again, I am going back to my poor working conditions. As you can see I am in a dirt floor barn.
I am going to take my entire head to a machine shop and have it checked for straightness and also to work my valve seals, guides and such. I am just going to pay to have it done because of time and also lack of some of the tools needed.
Here are some pictures and I will also post the serial # in the next day or so