Pan is off Z134 Gas engine on Massey f40, now what?

[Gale Hawkins]

Note short change requirement is only for first 2-3 changes so after having almost lost the 5.3Lengine due to no oil pressure due to the known pressure relief valve apparently sticking open potential I am playing it safe until the oil starts staying clear for a couple thousand miles.

Mobil 1 High Mileage synthetic motor oils are especially recommended for high mileage vehicles even those that have used lower quality conventional oils. (see Note 1)

Note 1 -- If your engine has excessive sludge deposits due to less-than-adequate maintenance practices, Mobil 1 High Mileage can help by reducing the sludge left behind in your engine. For severe cases of sludge, ****short oil change intervals (3,000 - 5,000 miles) are recommended for the first two-three oil changes**** as reduction of the sludge takes place. In cases of engine damage that may have resulted from poor maintenance, even Mobil 1 synthetic oil cannot remedy years of neglect.


Oil Change Interval: Oil change intervals can be as short as 3,000 miles or as long 15,000 miles on some new cars. We recommend that you follow the oil and filter change frequencies shown in your owner's manual. With the high-performance reserves of Mobil 1 synthetic motor oil, you can have the confidence to go the full mileage or time frame recommended by the vehicle manufacturer.

 

[Texwing]

Had an old houseboat with some partners that had twin chrysler slant six engines. One was an oil burner, partners one night just ran it low and seized it up, in the stern i don't think they could tell anything was up. It was a real mess because the Marina controlled the mechanics, and nothing was cheap. For fun I added oil and hit the starter. It cranked up and you could tell no difference in its operation, I could not believe it. There is no moral to this story other than avoid partners in boats. I am sure damage was done, but it still ran.

 

[Gale Hawkins]

Texwing I have heard of other cases of people letting them cool and adding oil and they go back to working fine. I expect it is a case where all parts get tight about the same time and stall the engine before bearings start spinning,etc.

 

[Texwing]

I bet you are right about getting tight, plus it was at low rpm and not under great load. Still hated to see it happen. Hope to get rod bearings today and start putting them on today, and I am starting to think the oil pump is original from the safety wiring and the fact someone had shimmed the spring (and not replaced it). There is also scoring on the cover plate and and a fair amount of slop between gears, but without a new one to look at its hard to say.

 

[Texwing]

Oh my what a mess of uncertainty, the new pump rebuild kit came in with zero instructions. As I have read on other threads, I am to drill and tap the main drive gear onto the shaft, the set screw of course missing. I can drill and tap (some) but don't understand why that bit is not going to drift right on over into the aluminum when I try to drill it.

By the way, the old relief piston came out and had a weird wear pattern, sort of an egg shaped circle, on the top side of piston, might have been sticking, but was moving when I got to it.

Then the filter adapter kit. I did this to not have any question as to filtration since dirt in oil seems to have done some damage to the rod bearings. The Fram PB50 filter that came with the kit has, in the main screw hole, a tiny orifice, maybe 1/16 inch, likely less. You can barely blow through it, which brings the questions up as the why? Does the filter help boost the overall oil pressure through restriction? wrong one? Does the factory canister set up have a similar restriction in the main hold down bolt? Since my spring in the canister was messed up, and no washer, could that have something to do with the low oil pressure to begin with??

Whew lots of questions, sorry. Thanks for any help!

 

[Gale Hawkins]

Compared to the new gears does the old ones show much wear?

Clearly a messed up spring and no washer was not a good thing. When a teenager dad and I put an WD-45 rebuild kit in dad's friend's old WD and all went well until the guy make the first oil change. He came over and said he had no oil pressure. Dad drives over and sure enough in the old filter there was the metal stem that came out with the old filter. He removes the new filter and puts the metal stem back in place and all was well.

 

[Texwing]

Compared to the new gears does the old ones show much wear?

Clearly a messed up spring and no washer was not a good thing. When a teenager dad and I put an WD-45 rebuild kit in dad's friend's old WD and all went well until the guy make the first oil change. He came over and said he had no oil pressure. Dad drives over and sure enough in the old filter there was the metal stem that came out with the old filter. He removes the new filter and puts the metal stem back in place and all was well.

Hi Gale, well actually the second gear that comes out is sorta loose on the shaft, the new gear fits on the shaft better and has less slop on the shaft. I am now contemplating the changeout of rest of gears which is a project in itself, with the drilling and tapping of a set screw the main issue, set screw being missing from the kit, of course. Next issue becomes this fram pb50 filter with the tiny orifice; I can think of no other reason for the tiny orifice other than to hold oil pressure up. I suppose the shaft in the current oil cartridge could have a small orifice; i failed to look.

 

[Texwing]

...which brings up the question, is it possible have low oil pressure due to something messed up in this massey cartridge set up, like the example above?

 

[DaButcher]

Where is Shona13 when ya need him :drink:

...which brings up the question, is it possible have low oil pressure due to something messed up in this massey cartridge set up, like the example above?

 

[Texwing]

OK, I am trying to put the oil pump back together and the cover of the oil pump has a concave area on the gear side. The problem is that the plate will go on in two different directions, which would have the effect of reversing where this concave area is in relation to the oil gears. Not sure which way it was, or if it was correct anyway. Can anyone tell me how it goes, or if it makes a difference?