F35 steering drop arm removal

[congo181]

Hi all.

Got an oil leak from the left steering drop arm on my 1964 Massey 35, so I've got a new seal for it.

Can anyone tell me, is it a left or right hand nut, as its not budging when I try and undo it.
Also, assuming I can get it undone, whats the correct torqu for doing it up again..

Cheers,
Jim

 

[The kid]

As a rule. Lefty Loosy, righty Tighty. If it's painted then a penetrating oil is somewhat useless. Heat with a torch on the nut usually works.

 

[congo181]

Hi The Kid and thanks for the reply.
I was wondering if it was a left handed thread on the shaft for some reason.

I've used that little ditty over here in blighty too, but normally only when i'm trying to undo a nut thats upside down and behind me

 

[shona13]

[G'day Congo.
The both nuts are right hand thread and as the kid Mentioned Lefty Loosey.
Best to get a 3/4" drive socket and a socket bar they are usually quite tight ,when you get the nut undone ,make sure it is easy to undo BY HAND even if you have to go on and of a couple of times ,when the nut is nice and easy to get of by hand screw it on till the nut is almost a full nut Just to protect the threads for the next part.
Spray with wd 40 and get two hammers say a four pound and a two pound ,using the four pound hammer as an ANVIL Set it on the steering drag link position it nearest the front of the tractor and with a willing helper (must be good with a hammer) give the opposite SIDE a good crack what you are trying to do is SQUEEZE the taper that is holding the splined arm to the steering shaft,when the arm is loose take the nut of and remove the arm Replace the seal and reassemble, the fact that the shaft has a taper means that the nut does not have to be all that tight,use a wee bit of judgement and throw in some common sense for good measure remember some poor unlucky Person has to take it of at some time Hopefully not you:laughing:

Thats it for now.
Happy days.
Hutch.

 

[congo181]

Hi Hutch. Thanks for the detailed advice.
You're saying to hit the link across the diameter of the hole with the second hammer radially opposite the blow?
Cheers,
Jim

 

[shona13]

G'day Jim.
Correct, It may be a wee bit awkward to get the heavy hammer between the air cleaner and the drag link if so use a heavy piece of plate ,something that will contain the shock .
happy days.
Hutch.

 

[congo181]

Hiya. So I got the nut off, but couldn't get the drop arms to come off. I guess I'm that unlucky person you hinted at Shona!
J.

 

[shona13]

G'day congoman.
O,k Next step is to Hire a two jaw HEAVY PULLER dont waste your time and money on one of those good n cheap ones from your local store.
First set the puller up on the job make sure the screw is in the dimple in the centre of the shaft slowly apply pressure making sure the JAWS are as close to the centre as possible and when you have a fair bit of pressure on the puller give the jacking screw a sharp tap with Preferably a copper headed hammer ,if not use a steel headed hammer it WILL come of.
I would rather you try this option first again before you consider applying heat IF IT DOES NOT COME OF COLD again with a fair bit of pressure applied heat the drop arm ,it does not need to be heated all the way round just local heat in opposite sides ,not to much oxygen you don't want to damage the arm, This WILL GET IT OF..
happy Days .
and I believe spring is here for you over there woo hoo.
Regards.
Hutch.

 

[congo181]

Got it off in the end Shona. I used a metal wedge behind the bottom of the arm between it and the gearbox. Turning the steering wheel will gently increase the pressure.
I heated the arm at the bend point and a couple of 'taps' later it dropped off.
All good with new seal fitted.
Thanks for the help. Jim