Continental Z134 starting problem

[Cromagnum]

Looking at a gas MF2135 (Continental Z134) that was sitting for a couple years, that a friend has. After putting a gallon in the tank, and replacing the battery, it cranked up, but only runs with the choke.

It stops if you push the choke in.

Any thoughts on what it might be, what to look for, or how to fix that?

 

[banjodunn]

G'day either a blocked fuel line/filter to the carb or a blocked carb. Pull the fuel line at the carb and see if you have good fuel flow if so then the carb has prob gummed up from sitting around.



Jon

 

[murphy1244]

G'day either a blocked fuel line/filter to the carb or a blocked carb. Pull the fuel line at the carb and see if you have good fuel flow if so then the carb has prob gummed up from sitting around.



Jon

x2:thumbsup:

 

[Jerry/MT]

If it only runs with the choke on, then the mixture is too lean or you have a weak spark. (Weak sparks need a richer mixture.) Clean and check the points, then check the spark. Often the points are corroded or oily especially if the tractor has not be used for long periods of time. If you get a fat, bluish-white spark, the color of lighning then check the mixture setting on the carb. The idle air should be out ~ 1 full turn and main jet should be out 1-1/8 turns (M-S Carbs only).

The other possibility for a weak mixture is an air leak around the carb's metering section. The usual culprits are air leaks around the throttle shaft, at the carb/manifold interface, cracks or rust spots on the intake manifold, and air leaks at the manifold to head interface. CAREFULLY spraying starting fluid at these areas while the engine is running will help find these leaks. The engine will speed up when you spray starting fluid at the leak.

It's also possible that the idle air passage is partially clogged and/or the main jet is similarly blocked but make the above checks first before you go tearing into the carb. Most poblems on these engines result from weak sparks, poor carb adjustments, or air leaks around the carb metering sections.

 

[Cromagnum]

Well I got the tractor home, and now the fun begins.

Ordering the AGCO manuals now.
One question, do the 2135 Manuals also cover the Z134 Gas engine, or is that a separate manual?

 

[Bladehauler]

I would start by cleaning the carb. sounds like a plugged mainjet and emulsion tube to me !

 

[Cromagnum]

Ok, looking at the disassembly process.

The Air Inlet to the Carb on left side is a rigid pipe connected with a rubber sleeve with two pipe clamps.
The gas line is on the front right, and the carb is connected to the engine with two upper bolts.

Is there any special things to do in removal?
It appears I will have to loosen or remove the air filter in order to get the rigid air intake tube moved.

Dumb question: to clean the carb, is that just a quick spray clean into a few holes, a partial tear down, or is that a full tear down and rebuild?
I presume i need to get new gaskets?

 

[Cromagnum]

Here are the pics of the carb.

 

[The kid]

That appears to be a Marvel Schebler carb. They where used on a few brands on tractors. Rebuild kits are readily available for it. They are not hard to rebuild which would be the most inexpensive route.

 

[Cromagnum]

Yes, it is the Marvel 882.

I took it off today, and ordered the rebuild kit from Walts.

Because I haven't removed the loader, it has been a slow process. I also saw that the AGCO manuals (arrived last night) have no details on removal.

So, to help me remember the steps after rebuild, I will post the removal sequence here.

1) turn off fuel at gas sediment bowl.
2) remove air filter assembly.
This is 4 bolts (1/2" Socket/wrench) next to battery, and then hose clamps as needed. For this process, I removed the air assembly for cleaning (9/16 Socket).
3) remove gas line. Note, this is a brass connection.
4) undo 2 nuts holding top of carb to intake. Left one is difficult, consider getting stubby wrenches (1/2" Wrench).
5) disconnect rod to governor. via Cotter pin.
6) disconnect choke cable. Take a close look at how this was hooked up. This is two parts, the rod is in a brass block with a bolt clamping (use 1/4" socket), while the cable case is clamped via a screw (use flat screwdriver, or the 1/4" socket).
7) Remove carb, wiggling out. Careful, fuel may spill.

Now, I'm looking for MS 882 carb rebuild instructions, the 2135 AGCO pack didn't have that. It does have some instructions on basic settings after installation.