how to lift / support rear end of TO-30?

[dbotos]

This weekend while washing the tractor, I noticed some oil / oily dirt inside the left rear wheel. I checked it again today and there was some more fresh oil there (see attached pic). Assuming it's a seal and will need to remove the wheel to get at it. Would also like to check the brakes while I'm in there.

So how does everyone lift / support their 20/30/35 for wheel removal? I measured about 23" from the dirt up to the bottom of the axle tubes and about 17" up to the bottom of the differential. I've got a bottle jack, a farm jack, floor jack, two pairs of regular car/truck height jack stands, and a good pair of steel wheel chocks. Perhaps make some heavy-duty truncated-pyramid risers for the bottle jack and stands? I saw this video on the Ferguson three-point jack, which is pretty slick, but it looks like that might take a little more time to fabricate:

Ferguson Tractor Jack - YouTube

Harbor Freight also has these big jack stands that go up to about 30", which would save me from having to make risers for my current ones:

12 Ton Jack Stands

Tempted to use a 20% off coupon on a set of those. Just don't let my wife see me bring home another free flashlight or screwdriver set.

 

[hosspuller]

Easy and safest method is cribbing. That is a bunch of timbers like 4x4 two feet long. Stack them like a log house. Lift the tractor for the last pair and set the tractor on them. (I keep a dozen pieces around from previous jobs)

Do not work under a jack alone. Many have died and many more will. Don't join the club.

 

[dbotos]

I had to go into the city this morning anyway, so I stopped by Harbor Freight and pulled the trigger on the big jack stands. For $72 (used a 20% off coupon), i figured it wouldn't be worth the time/effort/materials to design and make something myself. I'll have to make some base plates for them to sit in/on to make sure they don't sink down into the dirt or my asphalt driveway.

I also dug out my bottle jack this morning. It's a 20-ton and goes from 9.25" to 15.125". So if I make a 6.5" riser for it, that will give it a 15.75" to 21.625" range. Attached is a quick model of what I'm thinking. 6" long piece of 3 x 3 x 1/4" box tubing sandwiched between two 1/4" plates and then some braces connecting the midpoints of the upper and lower plate edges. Will also add provisions to keep the base of the bottle jack on the top plate (a perimeter lip or some sort of hold-down clamps). And perhaps some sort of cradle piece to go on the jack head to make sure it doesn't slip off the diff.

I'll put a nice long handle on the jack so I'm well away from things while lifting. Then chock and give it the shake/shove test like you do to a car or truck once it's up on stands or ramps.

 

[The kid]

If it makes you feel any better, I need to do that exact same repair on mine. I didn't notice it at first but it does indeed leak. When I took the wheels off my 135 last summer I used a medium to large size wheeled jack with a 6 or 8" rest. I also used a couple of short 2x4's on top of the rest which put me high enough to position some solid concrete block with a jack stand on top. If you have loaded tires have someone help you. They are dangerous to handle. Replacing the inner seal looks to be not too bad a job. I have read sometimes the screw that secures the drum can be a bear. I believe several here have done it and documented in the archives. -kid

 

[dbotos]

We'll have to compare notes. The previous owner said the tires are unfilled (I remember asking when I bought it).

I broke out the new jack stands when I got home. They are pretty big. Attached picture shows them next to one of my truck tires, which just happens to be 30" OD.

 

[Soundguy]

jack stands and cribbing.

if you don't already have a service manual.. now is the time to get one.

brakes are simple mechanical drum.. don't even think about themtill you address the axle seals. plus. don't run your rear / common sump overfull.. it pools oil at the seals..

 

[dbotos]

Yup, got the service manual.

I've been thinking some more about the riser block for the bottle jack. As much as I enjoy cutting and welding metal, this is probably a case where something made out of wood would be faster and simpler. I can buy an 8-foot long 2 x 12 for $11, chop it into 8 pieces, and make two 6" tall risers that would be almost a foot square (each would be four layers, held together with long screws). Slap some garage door handles* on 'em for easy toting and call it a day.

* Shop Genie 2-Pack Garage Door Handles at Lowes.com

 

[dbotos]

Quick drawing:

 

[Soundguy]

yep.. wood cribbing is the ticket.

i bought some 4x6 6x6 and 8x8 and cut them up, plus a 2x12.. all different sizes. that and some jack stands and a few tifferent types of jacks and you can do most jobs..

 

[namyessam]

yep.. wood cribbing is the ticket.

i bought some 4x6 6x6 and 8x8 and cut them up, plus a 2x12.. all different sizes. that and some jack stands and a few tifferent types of jacks and you can do most jobs..

metal against metal will tend to slip easier than metal against wood. Riggers moving machinery will usually use wood between the forklift forks and a metal base of a machine to reduce the chance of slipping.