3-Point Hitch Ferguson 3 point hitch won't go down

[allbeaux]

A few months ago, while using a grader blade on my old Ferguson T30 tractor to drag a dirt road, I accidentally snagged the blade on a stump. This jolted the tractor to a stop and stalled the engine. When I recranked the engine the blade/3point hitch immediately raised all the way up. Now the 3 point hitch won't go down, even with the blade on the hitch which weighs several hundred pounds. If I turn the engine off the pressure bleeds down and the hitch lowers, but as soon as I crank the tractor the hitch goes all the way up again.

I have drained the oil down and taken the side cover plate (with the dip stick) off and looked inside.....like I know what I'm looking at.

I was able to reach inside immediately after turning the tractor off (so the hitch was still raised) and press on what I'm pretty sure is the valve for the hitch to get it to lower.
Because of this I'm thinking there may be a broken or worn linkage to the valve, but it's impossible to see the linkage. I can visuallize it using my fingers, but I don't know what a good one is supposed to look like so that really doesn't do me any good.

Other sites indicate that a hitch that is stuck up might be due to a stuck valve.

I'm afraid to attempt to take the top access plate off, because I read somewhere that you shouldn't remove this top plate unless absolutely necessary. Apparently removal of the top plate is much more involved than removing the side access panel.

What do you guys think I should do at this point?

 

[flusher]

Get the service manual and put in some study time before taking your tractor apart

Ferguson Dealer Shop Manual 1948-1952

That's what I did when I bought my 1964 MF135 diesel in 2006. Makes a big difference with the manufacturers info rather than flying blind.

Good luck.

 

[allbeaux]

"Read the manual" is probably very good advice; though it isn't quite the personalized, detailed account of first-hand experience type advice I was expecting to get from this forum.
However, please don't mis-understand, I do appreciate your advice and wishes of good luck. Thanks.

 

[SIMassey]

"Read the manual" is probably very good advice; though it isn't quite the personalized, detailed account of first-hand experience type advice I was expecting to get from this forum.
However, please don't mis-understand, I do appreciate your advice and wishes of good luck. Thanks.

I have to agree with you that that wasn't the advice you were looking for. Although great information is contained in a repair manual, I do know for certain that the I&T service manual does not contain trouble shooting information. I'm not sure of the official Massey Ferguson service manual, since I do not have it. But what I do know for sure is that you first have to know what wrong with something before you can fix it. That precisely what you were asking and is what I understood from your first post. Once you know what is wrong and what it is going to take to fix it, you can make an educated guess whether you want to tackle it or not. You may not have the mechanical ability, the tools, or the place to properly work on a project of a given magnitude. I'm sure thats what you were trying to find out.

Be patient, there are several knowedgable members of this forum that are willing to help. Some of them seem to only check in once in a while or only answer threads they feel that they can be of an assistance.

I myself have never had a top cover off either and have avoided it so far but sometime in the future will probably will tackle the project, but for now, I am getting by without doing it.

I'm just speculating here, but since you hooked a stump with the rear blade, I'm wondering if it did something to the control valve linkage. This is where the top link connects and has something to do with the weight transfer to the rear wheels. I believe this is what is refered to as the "Ferguson System". If this internal linkage is badly rusted it may have been moved during the violent three point hit and then not returned because of the rust actuating the control valve in a manner that may not let the three point lower. Just guessing??? Hopefully someone with great knowledge will see this and set me straight. We can all learn something here. Afterall thats what the forum is for.

SIMassey

 

[The kid]

A few months ago, while using a grader blade on my old Ferguson T30 tractor to drag a dirt road, I accidentally snagged the blade on a stump. This jolted the tractor to a stop and stalled the engine. When I recranked the engine the blade/3point hitch immediately raised all the way up. Now the 3 point hitch won't go down, even with the blade on the hitch which weighs several hundred pounds. If I turn the engine off the pressure bleeds down and the hitch lowers, but as soon as I crank the tractor the hitch goes all the way up again. I have drained the oil down and taken the side cover plate (with the dip stick) off and looked inside.....like I know what I'm looking at. I was able to reach inside immediately after turning the tractor off (so the hitch was still raised) and press on what I'm pretty sure is the valve for the hitch to get it to lower. Because of this I'm thinking there may be a broken or worn linkage to the valve, but it's impossible to see the linkage. I can visuallize it using my fingers, but I don't know what a good one is supposed to look like so that really doesn't do me any good. Other sites indicate that a hitch that is stuck up might be due to a stuck valve. I'm afraid to attempt to take the top access plate off, because I read somewhere that you shouldn't remove this top plate unless absolutely necessary. Apparently removal of the top plate is much more involved than removing the side access panel. What do you guys think I should do at this point?

Have you moved the draft control. One of the members here couldn't drop his brush cutter. Turns out he had the draft control all the way down. You have two controls on the right fender. Position and Draft. Draft is used only if your using an implement that needs to stay at a certain height while moving. It should be pulled up but not quite all the way. Usually there is a knob stop to prevent the lever from being pulled up too far. I've read that causes constant pumping. The POSITION LEVER IS JUST THAT. It allows the implement to be raised and lowered. To the needed level. By coming to a sudden stop could have either jammed a lever or knocked a lever out of place inside. I'll see if I can find some internal photos of the inside associated with the lift/position lever.

added: Make sure the lift speed control behind your right foot sitting on the tractor is set to slow. That jolt could have moved it.

 

[shona13]

G'Day allbeaux.
the most likely cause will be the hydraulic control linkage, The hydraulic control valve receives it,s depth control INSTUCTIONS via the three point linkage top link, there is a sensing rod inside that "follows the movement/Depth of the linkage and as in your case the toplink was Shock Loaded ,this shock is transferred through the linkage to the control valve .
to protect the valve there is a spring within the linkage which is there to protect the pump control valve ,I would say that the spring has broken or come of ,to check remove the right hand side plate ,the one with the transmission dipstick ,get a flashlight and a mirror and look up inside the gearbox , follow the control valve fork ,that is the two thin arms that connect to the pump follow them up and if the spring is still where it should be you will see it ,it is about 5/8 th inch diameter and runs horizontal, if it is hanging down as said it is either broken or has jumped of the linkage,if it has come of ,the lift cover will have to be removed to fix it,
If you need the information on how to remove the cover let me know and I will talk you through it.
Happy Days.
Hutch.

 

[Jerry/MT]

A few months ago, while using a grader blade on my old Ferguson T30 tractor to drag a dirt road, I accidentally snagged the blade on a stump. This jolted the tractor to a stop and stalled the engine. When I recranked the engine the blade/3point hitch immediately raised all the way up. Now the 3 point hitch won't go down, even with the blade on the hitch which weighs several hundred pounds. If I turn the engine off the pressure bleeds down and the hitch lowers, but as soon as I crank the tractor the hitch goes all the way up again.

I have drained the oil down and taken the side cover plate (with the dip stick) off and looked inside.....like I know what I'm looking at.

I was able to reach inside immediately after turning the tractor off (so the hitch was still raised) and press on what I'm pretty sure is the valve for the hitch to get it to lower.
Because of this I'm thinking there may be a broken or worn linkage to the valve, but it's impossible to see the linkage. I can visuallize it using my fingers, but I don't know what a good one is supposed to look like so that really doesn't do me any good.

Other sites indicate that a hitch that is stuck up might be due to a stuck valve.

I'm afraid to attempt to take the top access plate off, because I read somewhere that you shouldn't remove this top plate unless absolutely necessary. Apparently removal of the top plate is much more involved than removing the side access panel.

What do you guys think I should do at this point?

DON"T TAKE OFF THE LIFT COVER! Take off the side access plate.


The control valve is located in the pump and is actuated by a "T" shaped handle that is hooked to the the "H" shaped control fork. Reach down into the oil and pul the "T" shaped control valve stem backward and it should move about 1 inch and the lift should drop. Make sure the "T" shaped handle is in the little sockets on the "H" shaped control fork. Sometimes the valve sticks in it's bushing due to dirt and crud. Sometimes the cotter pin wears out on the "T" handle. etc.

 

[shona13]

G'day Jerry/Mt.
What is your point!!
Hutch.

 

[Jerry/MT]

My point was make sure that the control valve moves fore and aft. they sometimes stick and the linkage won't generate enough force to move the valve. The handles have also been known to come off (broken cotter pin) the control valve stem or to come out of the control fork sockets.

 

[Mike476]

A lot of sound advice being offered, including that offered by Flusher. I know it wasn't what you were hoping for as far as getting some sort of an idea of what you were getting into but it is important to have an inkling of what to expect once you get started.

If after confirming your issue you determine you need to remove the top cover let us know, there are a few on here who have gone through it and would be happy to help.